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  • Name for JVS2JAMMA board

    K405 - - Project Ideas

    Post

    Quote from invzim: “Thanks all for naming input - would JVS4PCB work? Should not lead to jamma cabinet confusion, and most people refer to games as a PCB? ” You're trolling right? JAMMA2JVS.. that's it, ARCADEPCB2JVS then?

  • Name for JVS2JAMMA board

    K405 - - Project Ideas

    Post

    JAMMA2JVS

  • Quote from undamned: “Commence selling off stuff I care about less than Darksoft Neo Multi, NOW!!! -ud ” Me too! I have a girlfriend and kids for sale!

  • Blast City Nanao 2930 Recap kits

    K405 - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from kingcar: “My friend took some pictures during the process. Was a big help, always double checking my steps and work. Regaring PSU I was thinking of doing it this winter. On one of the Machines, since one of the PSU has been repaired 3 years ago. The Second one needs also a new Transistor C5244 and needs Voltage to be adjusted as well. But unfortunatly I couldn't find any info about the pot that is for voltage. anybody got a clue on that? The Manual only has info about the ones for Col…

  • Blast City Nanao 2930 Recap kits

    K405 - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from kingcar: “Installed the Kit yesterday. I let the Machine run for 1-2 hours after the install, seems to be doing fine. The Bipolar caps are missing in this capkit (see the blue marked Caps on A&O Wiki)btw. I suggest you buy those on iankellog's site to have them all. Was a real pain in the ass to do the job but I'm happy I did it. In 2 weeks I have to do it again on my other Blast.....yay..... ” Nice, got any before and after pictures? Will you be recapping the PSU as well?

  • Quote from PascalP: “finally got the new batch of labels from the printer! Will ship them out tomorrow, sorry for the delay guys.... @Darksoft and @Mitsurugi-w, could you PM me your addresses you want the 'PROTO' labels shipped? ” No apologies needed man, it's cool that you are doing this, much appreciated. Thank you.

  • Fuck agile, don't like the agony of half baked crap.. it's ready when the engineers deem it worthy. The higher the standards the longer the wait.

  • Can u send me one, just 'in case' *tadum tsssk* I'll transfer the 11,- to your bank account if you give me the ok.

  • Quote from PascalP: “@Lions3, that display plate on @kidpanda's unit looks slick! You need to hook me up with one ” We two!

  • Pretty slick, Pascal. Very nice. I might go for an acrylic plate solution after all, as I don't like to sacrifice an original game, at least not the 2 ones I currently own.

  • @PascalP thanks a lot for this! Option 3 please..

  • Thanks for posting, watched it! Cool stuff.

  • funfact: Anton was selling Kirameki Star Road in april.

  • Nice work, @PascalP Number 3 has my preference.

  • Quote from jassin000: “Honestly I prefer LCDs for selecting BECAUSE it makes the multi behave like the original. On-screen menus have a place don't get me wrong, I just love what's been done with the CPS2/F3. Even the ST-V multi, while shipping without a LCD has perfect jumper operation that later allowed for the addition of a LCD. My sexy ST-V (now with even more sexy thanks to Twistedsymphony) A0he2Di.jpg ” Guess I'm not an Arcade purist... I prefer OSD menu's. But I guess I'm a romantic fool.…

  • Taito F3 "Volume" dial setting

    K405 - - F3 Multigame Cart

    Post

    Quote from waiwainl: “Got below picture from PascalP as a base-reference, using this from now on. The glue on my pot-dial was clearly not holding at all, so glad I didn't trusted it. The Multi is working great WnbDwYXh.jpg ” Don't trust the position of the dial, it's still all analogue. You can check the correct voltage on various IC's on the PCB, look up the datasheet of a couple of the IC's and look for the Vcc pin. You can measure, with a voltmeter set to DC, between Vcc and GND.

  • Thanks guys for the support. Working now! I bend the PCB upwards, while seated, I pulled the PCB upwards, giving it a slight bend upwards. Turned it on, LCD still lit, no text, but when I pressed enter, I noticed the prog LED lit up. Game loaded ok and I could play, swapped the LCD PCB with the one from the CPS 2 multi, including the flat cable, and bingo, I had text, swapped back the original, gave the flat cable some wigles and some force and the connectors before putting it back and... taadaa…

  • But... I don't have a problem with my F3 mobo and a normal game, so I don't need to troubleshoot that. The problem is I can't load a game from the sdcard because the multicard isn't showing any titles in the LCD display.

  • Quote from waiwainl: “Can you make a few pics around the heatsink? As well as under the paper where the voltage knob is? I have 1 F3 mobo that didn't work properly either and I noticed that one of the (I believe resistor) was covered with sheep wool - that probably needs to be replaced. Since your mobo is as dirty as my mobo is... My other F3 mobo works like a charm. ” We have the same dirty board supplier You mean your F3 mobo did not work properly with the TAITO F3 multi? Because I have tried …

  • Hopefully Mitsu can spot something or has another option for me to try.