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Easiest thing would be to remove all of that shit and install the fix pcb.
 
Heh heh, I was just hoping I could get away with being lazy. But yeah, I got the feeling that the fix pcb or running individual wires would ultimately be the needed solution.

Soldering those super fine wires is a gonna be a huge pain in the ass, but I feel it is within my abilities.
Using the fix PCB with hot air looks far simpler, but I have no experience doing it.

I'm leaning towards trying the wires first then, if that doesn't work out, I'll order a fix PCB.
 
You probably could have had it shipped directly to mitsu for the fix PCB to be installed.
 
Hi,

I just bought a kit from saveyourgames.it (haven't received it yet) and I was wondering if there is a chance that the audio fix is already implemented?
 
Hi,

I just bought a kit from saveyourgames.it (haven't received it yet) and I was wondering if there is a chance that the audio fix is already implemented?
Of course. Since the audio fix was created all the kits come now with the fix.
 
hej,

i tried to fix my board yesterday (didn't find the time earlier) and I botched it up. I have no more sound. When taking of the chip I lost the conductor track for the second wire. I soldered the wire to the loose track but it doesn't work. Does anybody know an alternative solderpoint? I followed the track but lost it...
 

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hej,

i tried to fix my board yesterday (didn't find the time earlier) and I botched it up. I have no more sound. When taking of the chip I lost the conductor track for the second wire. I soldered the wire to the loose track but it doesn't work. Does anybody know an alternative solderpoint? I followed the track but lost it...
Outch :( good luck
That reminds me that I don't have to do it my self and that I have to send my kit back to DS

@Darksoft : is it possible to not have crackling with the 1st batch kits ?! Because while playing on a HAS supergun on my TV I don't hear any and I'm affraid to get crackling the day I'll put it back into a cab 8|
 
mine was 1st batch and I had crackling in the cab...

@Darksoft: May I send in the board even though I botched it up?
 
Yes you can send it, but this will be a fix and will cost. I told you guys very clearly. If you are not confident doing that. Send it to us.

Where are you based?

And yes....it will probably crackle once it's back on the cabinet, unless you do the fix.
 
To be clear once it's fixed it won't crackle. If you own a first batch you may not notice it but it will have crackle until the fix is applied.
 
@Mitsu, are you still available to do the fix or have you stopped accepting new work for now? I saw you were going to cut back for a while. I'm happy with mine the way it is for now, but at some point would like to get the fix applied.
 
It's a bit too close to the move right now. I'll pick up after I settle in somewhere.
 
Does anybody know an alternative solderpoint? I followed the track but lost it...
I don't want to encourage further damage to your kit... But you could scrape the masking off the trace, and solder some k30 to it.

Not trying to sound like I got game, truth is I sent mine into Mitsurugi for service because I was fearful of something just like this.
 
Does anybody know an alternative solderpoint? I followed the track but lost it...
I don't want to encourage further damage to your kit... But you could scrape the masking off the trace, and solder some k30 to it.
Not trying to sound like I got game, truth is I sent mine into Mitsurugi for service because I was fearful of something just like this.
thanks for the advice. i sent the board yesterday to the pro. actually, the soldering is not that challenging (although my solder tip was a bit too coarse...). my main problem was to remove the chip. that's when i ripped the trace off. i didn't have a heat gun so i tried solder braid. i have to train desoldering smd parts more...
 
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