What's new

RealMFnG

Legendary
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
5,014
Reaction score
4,522
Location
NorCal
Must have been 10 years ago. Me and a buddy picked up 4 Candy cabs from Matsu over at the Shmups Forums. They were probably the first ones that were ever imported into San Jose. I remember them only costing $350 + shipping then. We struck out on getting an Egret II, so we ended up with on Astro City, one New Astro City, an Astro City 2, and a Windy City. Along the way, my buddy sold the others and I was left with a New Astro City. I ended up selling that when I needed some cash about 3 years back. Been kicking myself ever since.

Two days ago, I saw a 1-hour old ad on Craigslist listing a Astro City for $300 w/a dead monitor. I jumped on it. Took until the evening until the seller got back to me. But we were able to make arrangements to meet the next day. Decided to work from home on Thursday to make the transaction easier since he was only 30 minutes from my home in Manteca. When I got to his house, it was sitting in his foyer. She was a thing of beauty. Clean as a whistle. Only bad thing was the CP.

AstroCollection9.JPG

While I was at this guy's place, turns out he was quite the game connoisseur. He goes by lord_sega_ on Instagram. His collection was stunning and he let me take some pictures:

AstroCollection2.JPG
AstroCollection11.JPG


As fate would have it, I picked up a repro CP from @Derick2k and it arrived the same day! I had designs on using that CP to convert the Sega Die Hard arcade cabinet into a Candy Cab, but now I have a better purpose for it and can use this plain CP for that purpose anyway. Also, on Monday of this week, a friend I made in my arcade travels through Craigslist traded my CPS3 case/cage for his dead CPS3 board. That came complete with enough SIMM's to play 3rd Strike!

CPS3_Dead_Board.JPG

Today, I have been taking apart the Astro City. The fuse is definitely blown on it. I am hoping that is the only problem. If so, I really struck gold. Been really lucky in my arcade travels thus far. Made some friends along the way.
 

Attachments

  • AstroCollection8.JPG
    AstroCollection8.JPG
    722.8 KB · Views: 251
  • AstroDK.JPG
    AstroDK.JPG
    958.2 KB · Views: 245
Last edited:
Also, on Monday of this week, a friend I made in my arcade travels through Craigslist traded my CPS3 case/cage for his dead CPS3 board. That came complete with enough SIMM's to play 3rd Strike!
Now thats a deal :D

Super nice CadeCave you got going :thumbup:
 
Darn. Replacing the fuse on the monitor chassis didn't do the trick.
 
Did it re-blow? Did you make sure you have 100VAC at the power in to the monitor?
 
I didn't check if it re-blew the fuse or if there is 100vac going in. I will do that now. Quite possible I have a Nanao MS9 instead of an MS8 in here.
 
So it did re-blow the fuse. There are two of them. The other one remains intact before and after I replaced the fuse. Here is a transcript of what I posted over at KLOV to ask for help.

Picked up a stock Astro City. Everything appears to be original including the PSU. Here are the pics of the chassis:


https://goo.gl/photos/uHpayCndAyLjokZ38


In pic 3, silk-screened on the board is 'NANAO 05A00362G1'. Google-fu shows that it is a Nanao MS8-29FSG. Please confirm.


The issue is that the monitor is dead. I pulled the chassis and could
see that fuse (F902) was burnt. A check with the multimeter confirmed
this. I replaced this fuse, reconnected everything, then repowered it
back up. Still nothing. No neck glow. Nothing. Retested F902 and found
it was re-blown. Fuse (901) was intact before I replaced F902, and after
I replaced F902.


I cannot see an ISO/stepdown transformer in this anywhere. Measuring AC
voltage coming off the PSU indicates 121vac. From there, a wire connects
it to the monitor. Although, I cannot measure the voltage at the
monitor connection since the pins are sheathed in a very tight
connector. Assuming he voltage is the same as there is no transformer in
sight. I read that the PSU does the step down conversion, but why am I
getting 121vac off the PSU?


Do I need to add an ISO transformer or convert 120vac to 100vac prior
before powering the cab? I had a candy cab before and do not remember
having to have to do this before.
 
In the meantime, I gave the tube the Simple Green wash. Relatively speaking, there wasn't much grime. This cab is in really good shape aside from the monitor. Can't wait to get this going. I can't wait to play shmups on this thing.
 
Next thing to check is the HOT on the chassis.
 
That would certainly short the fuse immediately. How did you test it? What part number is it on your monitor?

Was it MS8 or MS9 btw?
 
How did you test it?
Put the meter on continuity/diode test mode. Placed the negative lead on the center pin. Then touched the outer pins one by one with the positive lead.
What part number is it on your monitor?
Part number on the chassis reads: NANAO 05A00362G1. A thread on AO says it's a Nanao MS8-29FSG which kind of sucks if this is the case because seems the MS8-26 is easier to find parts for.
 
I meant the HOT. What is the part number?

Normally the HOT is shorted when it's bad. Do you have continuity when you touch the center leg and the metal frame its attached to?
 
I meant the HOT. What is the part number?
Toshiba 2SC4288A w/'3D' sub-headered under the part number. What does the 3D stand for? Seems there are some Toshiba HOT's on eBay but the sub-header is 5F. Will these work?


Do you have continuity when you touch the center leg and the metal frame its attached to?
No. All good here.

On a side note, I am going to be safe and pick one of these up to step down from 120v to 100v. I am getting 12Xvac off the PSU and that is going right to the monitor without a step down. Can't be good.
 
Do what Mitsu says, test those transistors, they are usually the culprits.
 
I don't think the HOT is bad if it's not shorting to the frame. Otherwise the only way to know for sure would be to completely remove the HOT and do the diode test. The blown fuse means SOMETHING has failed by shorting rather than failing open. If you are unsure it wouldn't hurt to replace it if it's only a few bucks. I'm guessing the 3d is just a lot number. The ones you found on ebay should be ok.
 
Yeah, they were less than $4 new/shipped for eight of them. Will be the first time I will ever replace a HOT. Hoping it isn't the flyback. Can't find it on the web anywhere.
 
Hey to test the HOT, did you desolder and remove it?

Use diode test on the junctions: B-E, B-C & C-E as Mitsu stated, you will either get a short circuit or open result.
 
Back
Top