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war3zlod3r

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Hi I'm building my first supergun and it has been a very educating experience, that said I realize there is still alot more to learn. I hear alot about the XRGB mini framemiester and how it can negate the need for video encoders, but I'm still some what confused. I've heard many people say you should put pots lines on the R/B/G wires to allow for picture adjustment. (good idea or unecessary?) I'm guessing I just need to modify my JAMMA harness video connector from a 5 pin to a male 8pin din and just plug it in directly? I assume use of an RGB mini would negate the need for encoders or sync strippers but I'm still a bit fuzzy on the whole process any advice and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I've also heard some people say you shouldn't wire it directly to the din but instead with 220-280 ohm resistors on each line?
 
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Hi, some really great first timer questions. I will try and explain what I have read from past forums and experiences.

1. Pots lines on the R/B/G wires to allow for picture adjustment?
This I believe is important when using XRGB mini framemiester. The raw signal coming from the arcade boards come be much greater then it is really need. Causing the source to not have very much variance. Put pots on your lines good idea.

2. 5 pin to a male 8pin din?
I believe most around here recommend this for pure convenience and easy plug and play. Pretty easy task if you have the tools and pieces/ parts needed to take care of the job.

3. RGB mini would negate the need for encoders or sync strippers?
This I really do not know much about, however, I would love to hear someone else's that is experienced with the device.

4. 220-280 ohm resistors on each line?
I have read this too. Once again, I believe this is to tone down the signal and regulate it more. Also, I would assume having the resistors on the lines would allow for better controls once it is inputted in any device. Similar to add pots to your lines before inputting your signal wires to the XRGB mini framemiester.

5. Advice and/or suggestions?
First off, good for you to take on the job of building and designing your own. I have build three total in the last few years. It is a very patient and relaxing experience. Try not to feel overwhelmed. Just remember this one simply concept. The whole thing is just positive signals looking for grounds. That is it. Seriously. Unfortunately, one of my own mistakes was size of supergun. MIne is HUGE!. Granted I also have my CPS3 inside the enclosure with the supergun parts. Kind of a ALL-in-ONE box of Street Fighter III: Third Strike! YEAH!:).
I wanted to protect the CPS3 because it only comes with the metal cases that I do not trust others being around.

Back to what you want to know, WHAT I USE?:1. Video - JROK 4.1 component Video Encoder for most of my video processing. I also take my raw RGB+S and have those available as outputs for monitors or sources that accept it (output is BNC). 2.Controls- I have both DB15 and UNDAMNED usb encoders. Both are wonderful. UNDAMNED is a beautiful device. Highly recommended, however, the solderless terminal version of the device is no where to be found. Paradise Arcade Shop sells the device but has not had them in stock since late December. If you can limit your time using a solder iron, I feel, you are going in the right direction. Especially, if this is something you are not experienced or have not performed at all. JST connections are the new standard when building. A little tricky at first but pretty dope when you got the skills to handle it. Takes away the need for a soldering iron. I suggest watching the HOW TO video of Building a Supergun. I have watched this countless times. Keep in mind he is go to setup that supergun for DB15 connections. That step can be optional now with the help of UNDAMNs USB. 3. POWER -Finally, POWER IT UP!!!!! Power Supplies: I use POWER PRO 130W UL, CL, CE POWER SUPPLY. I find this to be the choice for those trying to build a supergun small and compact from video of builds. Keep in mind you can find this cheaper elsewhere. It is a far better PSU than the cheaper ones from China that are compact. Granted I don't wanna knock too hard on the cheaper Chinese made ones because I was a new guy and used to own one It sadly died on me in 9months. I have since switched to the Power Pro and have had no said issues (knock on wood for good luck).

Last few comments: Remember the right tools for the job. Shop around for parts. If you need to solder try not to burn yourself (it hurts not a good feeling). Take your time and double check all of your steps and connections for voltage lines. These are VERY IMPORTANT, stuff can blow up or even straight burn or start a fire (believe me I almost burnt my whole super gun. I have ran two pretty decent size tournaments with my supergun, cps3 multi, cps2 mulit, and naomi net dimm multi boot. And will be running one this April 1-2. I LOVE THIS THING. ITS GREAT!

These people that are here at this forum are here to help you and others understand the importance of the craft of arcade goodnesses. Most of the knowledge I have consumed is because of these individuals or because I have followed individuals from other sites to this site.

You have great questions that I am sure other want to know. And remember..."If you build it, they will play it." - Jon Harris (Good buddy of mine told me that when he gave me a crazy amount of money to go build the supergun for our crew twitch.tv/povertygamenight.

NOW GO BUILD A BADASS SUPERGUN FOR ARCADE BOARDS AND TAKE OVER YOUR TOWN, CITY, STATE, or REGION. LET THEM KNOW, "I GOT THE POWER NOW!"......I'm out.
 
Or you can get you one of RGB's HAS :D

But, good for you on building your own. Please share your experience/results and ask away if you need any help or have questions, lots of friendly helpful people here.
 
On my SG build I used 480ohm resistors into 220uf caps (negative facing out/toward display) on the RGB lines, on the Sync line I feed it thru a LM1881 to strip for clean.
You may not need the LM1881 depending on the board, if you decide to omit the stripper use a 1k ohm resistor on the sync line (do not direct wire).

I should also mention that while building your own is fun and a great learning experience...
RGB's HAS v2 device is simply fantastic!
A single board design, nice expansion options, adjustable pots on RGB levels, button remapping support (and tons of other stuff I'm forgetting that is also great).
 
No doubt the RGB's HAS is a great device and I love that its available but I'm on a quest to build something and feed my project addiction! Thanks for all the helpful info guys I appreciate all the input!

Has anyone had any experience with the GBS-8220? I was thinking about using that for easy of output since it also includes VGA and component for the outputs for more flexibility and would eliminate the need for me to build my own pots. I do have some experience with soldering (and lost of burns lol) but I am trying to minimize it while also trying to keep it fairly small and flexible (not to mention the way more reasonable price).

Very jealous of your CPS2/3/NAOMI multiboot setup! :thumbsup:
 
The Gonbes converters are absolute garbage. I threw mine out after about 2 days of use... and I never throw anything away.
 
good to know any good suggestions for a VGA solution? If not JROK seems to be a very popular solution. What are everyone's thoughts on HDMI outputs? I know playing on most LCD/Plasma TVs is discouraged because of the input lag but I'm not sure I wanna invest the money and space in a CRT.
 
I'm a purest who likes to use RGB capable displays for everything. if I was going to use something personally I like the OSSC as it looks amazing and was created by picky hobbyists, but it's also quite expensive. Jassin is really the expert on this as he's tried just about every option out there I believe.
 
... but I'm not sure I wanna invest the money and space in a CRT.
CRT FOR LIFE HOMIE! Sony Wega or Trinitron, 27" are pretty light and don't take up too much room. Running component to them is great from JROK 4.1. Just keep in mind that MIDWAY boards are the devil when it comes to their 53.32345346643523492838937291.....blah blahh blah numbers that don't make since kHz.(Midway board output a weird Hz signal so Sony Wega and Trinitrons cant handle it.) I would highly recommend going the CRT way. Just make sure you work out and eat your wheaties everyday like HULK. CRT, CRT, C!.....R!......T!...remember you want lift with a twisting, quick jerking motion, just remove your legs from the the whole operation......serious be careful. Craigslist has Wegas everywhere for dumb cheap. Also Sony Wega/ Trinitrons come in a 24" with component. NICEEEEEEEE.
 
CRTs are awesome for gaming, we all know this... However CRT maintenance sucks hard!
Infact I think it sucks to hard I swore I'd never own another CRT as long as I lived.

I am a lier tho because I did get this busted 20" PVM the other day cheap, as I was discharging the tube and pulling out the chassis I was thinking...
Yea this is why I hate these goddamn things!

If you are unwilling (or unable) to do your own CRT maintenance I would not recommend you own one period!
Even the newests of the new CRTs have manufacture dates of the early 2000's, shit is going to fail cuz its f'n old now duh.
You WILL have to work to keep these alive, and if you are really serious about it you should have start stocking piling things like chassis, neck boards and tubes YESTERDAY!

As we move into the future, our options for scalers will only improve.
Some are already looking forward to the next generation that will provide 4k resolutions...
Increasing the possibility for a common X/Y integer value (allowing for a "clean" stretch/scale). :thumbsup:

Also while not directly related, LCD panel response times seem to be improving across the board.
Gamers are helping raise awareness, and manufactures are responding with TV's that disable post processing features (often referred to as "game" mode in the OSD).
 
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Jassin, What would you recommend for a VGA or HDMI solution? One of my goals here is easy portability and maximum compatibility within the realm of cost and reason of course. I've heard alot about the OSSC but not alot of where to purchase one. Good to know the industry has addressed this concern! :D
 
maximum compatibility
Then you need a xRGB Mini (aka Framemeister) act quickly as they have been discontinued by the manufacturer (Micomsoft).

The OSSC is the device with the most future potential IMO, however the problem with it IS display compatibility.
By simply doubling, tripling, or quadding each pixel it is very very fast (about 1ms of lag vs. the Mini's 16ms).
This method will not change the refresh rate, thus the LCD will have to support whatever wacky original refresh the system used.
Most TV's do not, compatibility is higher in the world of PC monitors, but it's still not perfect.

For the opportunity to buy a OSSC preassembled you should get onto the Videogameperfection mailing list.
You can buy one unassembled as a complete kit at almost anytime, be warned... The build out on these is a TON of SMD shit!
I consider myself moderately skilled at fine (0.5mm) pitch surface soldering, and this thing was WAAAAY beyond my abilities.

Look at how ugly my Altera 64 feet came out...
iBuBZOT.png


I recently captured a few shots of SF3 3rd Strike (CPS3) running on the Vewlix via OSSC.
ay0KooK.jpg

Y6fA4IW.jpg

HUsloV1.jpg
 
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it looks beautiful! So if I understand correctly if you use a framemeister or OSSC you can connect it directly without using an encoder as long as you have some kind of pots on the RGBS lines?
 
Also have you ever had to use a sync stripper with a jrok for s-video or component out?
 
In that Diamond setup I'm using my 480ohm > 220uf cap (it is a little dark however aka why people use adjustable pots) combo on the RGB lines.
A 1Kohm on the sync line, all tied into a (Euro style) SCART head then plugged into the OSSC (scaler).

The OSSC outputs LCD compliant (most of the time hehe) video in the form of DVI, which I plug directly into said LCD.
CPS3 has RCA audio jacks, so I use a simple RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plug directly into the cabs (basically 2.1) audio system.

I'm using a Suzo Happ 130watt PSU (supports -5v, +5v, +12v) to power the JAMMA harness, I wired controls in the Diamond myself (Taito official harnesses are 280$ I made mine for less than 20$).
 
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Is that DVI-D or DVI-I? I want to say in some videos I've seen people using sync strippers with the JROK but was curious if this was necessary
 
Is that DVI-D or DVI-I? I want to say in some videos I've seen people using sync strippers with the JROK but was curious if this was necessary
OSSC only outputs DVI-D (so no VGA head adapters) you can convert it to HDMI easily, however it has zero audio integration (if the TV only accepts audio via HDMI you are f'd).

As for the Sync stripper... You are thinking about this backwards.
The stripper isn't to support the encoder (JROK or other) it's to normalize the games sync.
This is the reason why I can't say for sure if you need one or not, some games will require it, others won't.

If you are trying to build a highly compatible supergun, you will use adjustment pots not fixed resistors, and have the stripper wired to a enable/passthru switch.
Again this is why I'm recommending RGB's HAS v2 unit, he has provided all these solutions for you in one compact PCB. :)
 
It is a pretty nice little device I've been thinking about, you usually wire a sync stripper up to a switch in your builds don't you? I recently took KOarcade's advice and got my hands on a MAKVISION 3M25 Trisync that I bought new and sold to someone as part of MAME cabinet so it has very very very few hours on it. After reacquiring it I realized it has a VGA cable coming off of the monitor chassis with a 6 pin adapter board on it, my problem is most jamma harness I've seen come with a 5 pin connector. My understanding is that the sync is consolidated on the 5 pin where as it is separated on the 6 pin. Where can I get a harness with a 6 pin connector? below I've included a picture of the adapter that I have with it.

http://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/i...arcade_1_aa7c6558586b168236593e8ff58c4a22.jpg
 
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