What's new

Matan

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
93
Reaction score
48
Hi all,

Proud to anounce that the project is complete :)

Getting started - the game board requires +5v to operate, but to be precise you should aim to +5.2v on the game boards itself (and not on the PSU output or supergun). This game is one of those PCBs that require higher amps so you will need to keep that in mind.

Daytona USA arcade PCBs:
  1. Main baord including: rom board, cpu board and video board - stack of 3 boards
  2. 839-0683 - filter board
  3. 837-10652 - sound board
  4. 837-10539 - I/O board
  5. 839-0658 - I/O filter board
  6. 839-0657 - I/O filter board
Make sure you got all the boards. I do not have the drive board, but I also do not have the original force feedback controls so the drive board has no meaning. The game can still run without the drive board.

Wiring - The schematics are the main guideline for the project. Be sure to review than a few times before starting because incorrect connections can result in PCB damage.
Service manual #1, Service manual #2
I got the filter boards. They do simplify the wiring as the schematics assumes you have them, but I'm 100% sure the it can still work without the filter boards, it will just need more attention.

All connections with the boards was done with the DuPont male and female wire crimps. That is a very elegant and quick way to connect to the boards.

Controls - I bought a second hand USB wheel and pedals (I think for the PC). Get an old equipment so you'll know it uses potentiometers and not encodes.
The main issue is to understand how POT works. Once that's figured out, it's all plain and simple. Wheel and pedals are 3 POTs that are being given +5v, GND and outputs the voltage that the board translate to wheel turn or throttle / brake .

Since I'm using a supergun that supports neo-geo type controllers, it made life much easier. The controller pinout includes +5v so I'm all set in that matter. I took the jamma pinout diagram and assigned different inputs. Basically the jamma does not care what you assign as long as you follow 2 simple rules:
  1. You do not mess with the system reserved inputs such as: start, coin, test and service.
  2. You stay consistent with your choices.

Problems I've encountered and conclusions - The board requires +5v but in many wires!
F3NKDWTJ1QP81T7.MEDIUM.jpg
















That can cause problems connecting all to the 4 pins on the jamma finger board. I've used those plastic screw devices, maybe there is a more elegant solution...
FQWFF6GJ1QPCCLL.SMALL.jpg


Follow the schematics and test with a multimeter GND points just to be sure.

Use an arcade PSU. It has that knob to adjust the voltage and in that game you will need it.


Feel free to send comments and try it yourself ;)

Matan


Be sure to check my instructable page for details: Jammafying-Daytona-USA-Arcade-PCB
and for more projects and information checkout the facebook page: Arcade.Board.Players
 
Last edited:
Nice! Thank you.

(fwiw I detest facebook)
 
Hi all,

Proud to anounce that the project is complete :)
be sure to check my instructable page for details: Jammafying-Daytona-USA-Arcade-PCB

Feel free to send comments and enjoy.

Matan

For more projects and information be sure to check my facebook page: Arcade.Board.Players
@Matan,

we'd like to see more of these jammafyers like for i.e. Sega Rally1, 2 or other systems. Could you please edit your first post and put more detailed information in this thread? You can leave the links to your site. I believe the more information you put here, the more attention that you'll get. I think we can open a section for you if you keep these coming :thumbup:
 
I'm on the prototyping stage :)
Will consider manufacturing jamma harness for these projects.

Btw, I will start my next project hopefully this weekend, Virtua Racing :D
 
Back
Top