What's new
By:
Filters

Early stages of my first real arcade project.

questions on the designs:

What's holding the front piece that covers the monitor? Will it be free standing or will it attach to something so it won't move?

What's preventing the crt from sliding back? They are heavy but its better safe than sorry.

Will you store the super gun inside the unit or will everything be outside? If it's inside, you need more room depending on what kind of pcb/systems you are going to play.

Important question. Are you going to rotate your crt when you play vertical games?
 
I am all for DIY projects, especially with wood stuff.

So my 2 cents:

If you just want to do this to learn something about working with power tools, wood, measuring, designing, etc...go for it. But it will take you time, effort and material costs, even with the best laid plans, its easy to make a mistake, cut a piece wrong, etc.. or just find out after putting it all together that you miscalculated something. Again all fun if you just want to learn, see what works and what does not.

I used to design/make custom built ins, etc... The first furniture piece I ever designed was a coffee table with hidden storage for remotes, etc..while not a total failure and it served its purpose, it was far from my vision in many ways. But it was a fun learning experience that ended up costing me 2x as much in materials and tools, etc...plus a lot more time than anticipated. Nowadays I mostly design for friends and family. Woodworking takes a lot of patience, time, space, tools.

For example on cost of materials (not arcade related) I just built this:

IMG_8123.JPG


A simple custom vanity, needed to be exactly 65" to maximize & fit the space, made from 3/4" plywood, maple, finished in white satin lacquer. This took me 2 weeks part time, with pro tools, 2x coats of primer, 3x coats white lacquer, 2x coats of clear with sanding in between each coat for a baby butt smooth finish. You would think this is probably cheap, only a couple of sheets of plywood, and some studs, etc...cost in material, about $550. Not adding labor cause I did this for a family member.

I do however suggest that you first get a candy cab and learn from that, restore it, learn how it works, why are things laid out the way they are. See if they works/fits in a way that suits you etc....then go for building your own.

What are you estimating you materials cost will be?
Cost of travel to work space and use of tools, etc..?
Plus cost of your time doing this?

If it ends up being close to you getting a cab, get the cab first, build this enclosure at later time.
 
Last edited:
If you decide to build your own:

I do not like the design of your base, it will be exposed to misalignment/warping/twisting and stress in the wrong places.

Build a platform like this, or buy a furniture dolly in the same fashion. You can end using the bottom a s a shelf to store stuff for your setup.
The plywood will end up being a lot stronger than the 2x4 base you have currently designed. The plywood will also not split as easily when you screw into it.
Note: always predrill pilot holes for whatever screws you are using. Use glue and screws to join pieces, do a test fit of parts before gluing.
41696_700x700.jpg
 
Last edited:
jassin000 said:
Really zoom in on this screen shot, the detail/color is out of this world.
yzrLFLh.jpg
Click to expand...
jassin - what type of video you feeding the OSSC in this pic? is this composite video from the SNES or .. ? Just asking 'cuz it looks amazeballs.
 
zero238 said:
questions on the designs:

What's holding the front piece that covers the monitor? Will it be free standing or will it attach to something so it won't move?

What's preventing the crt from sliding back? They are heavy but its better safe than sorry.

Will you store the super gun inside the unit or will everything be outside? If it's inside, you need more room depending on what kind of pcb/systems you are going to play.

Important question. Are you going to rotate your crt when you play vertical games?
Click to expand...
1) The front piece will form a right angle with the piece going over top as well and will just lay on top inbetween the 2 side panels and can be lifted off easily for monitor rotation.

2) The screen has feet that will catch on the edge of the 2x4. Since I've reduced the angle, I've tested, said angle and the screen is solid, its not going anywhere, safe not sorry. I had a support for the back in an earlier design, maybe I'll add something to address this.

3a) The boardmaster is a supergun and controll box all in 1, it has a internal psu, video driver (I heard it might be worth upgrading), speakers, color pots, etc.

3b) Once the next batch of HAS are released, then only the db15 fightsticks will be visible and all the other guts (psu, has, controller encoders).

I've given up on switchers or putting multiple games in. I plan to just swap one pcb in and out at time. Are there boards bigger than CPS2? I believe it will just barely fit.

4) I am still trying to figure out how to allow for easy, safe, and quick monitor rotation. I have some ideas, but honestly I am mostly a fighting game guy, but maybe thats cause shmups require all the extra work of monitor rotation and seem to cost more (ketsui and cave games, im looking at you).

@rewrite, who is monouci and what was his success like?
 

Attachments

  • boardmaster.jpg
    boardmaster.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 164
cwx2 said:
Are there boards bigger than CPS2?
Click to expand...
There absolutely are.

Monouchi re-designed the Egret 2 rotation mechanism to work in Atomiswave SD cabinets. Much success, but the cabs are identical with different dimension monitors. An enormous feat in and of itself, but not particularly useful anywhere else. Plus, you'd need a lot more width to accommodate an easy-rotate mechanism.

When you wrote wheels I imagined like the E2's rotation.
 
Derick2k said:
I am all for DIY projects, especially with wood stuff.

What are you estimating you materials cost will be?
Cost of travel to work space and use of tools, etc..?
Plus cost of your time doing this?

If it ends up being close to you getting a cab, get the cab first, build this enclosure at later time.
Click to expand...
Derick2k,

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I agree the foundation you provided would be better. There's for sure some more seemingly negligible things, that would improve this design/project.

I have built things out of wood before, but nothing of fine craftsmen ship or home use. I've built skate ramps, skate boxes, mailbox edger, ramp to a mini barn, saw horses. I am also in the middle of a life long project to carve an entire chess set out of wood by hand with just one knife. I have completed 5 pieces in the last 3 years, but they look good and I got a long life to complete it.

MATERIAL:
MVP - I would estimate $90-$100. It's roughly $3 a foot, woodglue and hardware plus tax.
Utopian cab - $200+. Wheels, paint, mdf, shelving, otherhardware.

TRAVEL/TOOL:
Library - $FREE - my local library has space and tools for free, I also have friends, who have built beer-pong/beer-dice tables, green house, and other basic items in their yard.

Campus Shop - I think fees for semester were something like $200, but you get the best tools, and access to the wealth of knowledge from the woodshop junkies.

TIME:
Time to travel to workspace, getting tools, and working on this project are pretty negligible.
I go by library almost everyday. And like I said I have no deadline, I am enjoying the process, so time whatever time that goes into is fun time well spent.

Hunting for a cab on boards, potentially driving to vegas or SoCal to get it, fixing up and working on a candy, are also all huge time eats, so the "this project is going to take a lot of time and patience, just get a candy" argument is a little lost on me, "just getting a candy" also takes time and patience. I have lots of both, but I think that is required of an Arcade junkie whether they work with wood or not.
 
rewrite said:
cwx2 said:
Are there boards bigger than CPS2?
Click to expand...
There absolutely are.
Monouchi re-designed the Egret 2 rotation mechanism to work in Atomiswave SD cabinets. Much success, but the cabs are identical with different dimension monitors. An enormous feat in and of itself, but not particularly useful anywhere else. Plus, you'd need a lot more width to accommodate an easy-rotate mechanism.

When you wrote wheels I imagined like the E2's rotation.
Click to expand...
No my idea is nothing like E2 at all.

Ill try and explain it. It is not quite as smooth as the taito design and still may require some lifting.

Basically you lift the piece that is the front bezel and lid off, then take the the front feet of the monitor off the two 2x4's that are providing the angle, so it is level . Then slide it out the back, this where the mini wheels come in. Mini wheels are on the bottom and one side. Once it is just the front two feet hanging on the 2x4's, lift it up and place the left foot where the right foot was and rock it 45 degrees so the side becomes the new bottom. Then slide it back in and replace the lid. I may have to film a video to explain.

Is there any risk to the PVM by playing on it while rotated?
Games always tate counter clockwise correct?
 
cwx2 said:
Is there any risk to the PVM by playing on it while rotated?
Click to expand...
Well, it was not designed to be on its side, you would have to open it and check that its support structure can handle it being on its side and that none of the circuit boards will be under stress/touch anything else/ or come free.

Also, what are you doing as far as venting/cooling the inside of this enclosure? You could put a couple of vents at the top/rear I guess.

Where are you placing the speaker? What type of speaker? Depending on speaker, you might want to install a small sub aimed out the bottom of the enclosure.
 
cwx2 said:
Derick2k said:
I am all for DIY projects, especially with wood stuff.

What are you estimating you materials cost will be?
Cost of travel to work space and use of tools, etc..?
Plus cost of your time doing this?

If it ends up being close to you getting a cab, get the cab first, build this enclosure at later time.
Click to expand...
Derick2k,
Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I agree the foundation you provided would be better. There's for sure some more seemingly negligible things, that would improve this design/project.

I have built things out of wood before, but nothing of fine craftsmen ship or home use. I've built skate ramps, skate boxes, mailbox edger, ramp to a mini barn, saw horses. I am also in the middle of a life long project to carve an entire chess set out of wood by hand with just one knife. I have completed 5 pieces in the last 3 years, but they look good and I got a long life to complete it.

MATERIAL:
MVP - I would estimate $90-$100. It's roughly $3 a foot, woodglue and hardware plus tax.
Utopian cab - $200+. Wheels, paint, mdf, shelving, otherhardware.

TRAVEL/TOOL:
Library - $FREE - my local library has space and tools for free, I also have friends, who have built beer-pong/beer-dice tables, green house, and other basic items in their yard.

Campus Shop - I think fees for semester were something like $200, but you get the best tools, and access to the wealth of knowledge from the woodshop junkies.

TIME:
Time to travel to workspace, getting tools, and working on this project are pretty negligible.
I go by library almost everyday. And like I said I have no deadline, I am enjoying the process, so time whatever time that goes into is fun time well spent.

Hunting for a cab on boards, potentially driving to vegas or SoCal to get it, fixing up and working on a candy, are also all huge time eats, so the "this project is going to take a lot of time and patience, just get a candy" argument is a little lost on me, "just getting a candy" also takes time and patience. I have lots of both, but I think that is required of an Arcade junkie whether they work with wood or not.
Click to expand...
Cool, lets make it a sort of a site project, document everything, take lots of pics and keep a tally of whatever you spend on this project. I want to see how it comes out.
 
Derick2k said:
cwx2 said:
Is there any risk to the PVM by playing on it while rotated?
Click to expand...
Well, it was not designed to be on its side, you would have to open it and check that its support structure can handle it being on its side and that none of the circuit boards will be under stress/touch anything else/ or come free.
Also, what are you doing as far as venting/cooling the inside of this enclosure? You could put a couple of vents at the top/rear I guess.

Where are you placing the speaker? What type of speaker? Depending on speaker, you might want to install a small sub aimed out the bottom of the enclosure.
Click to expand...
1) I've looked through the vent holes on PVM and there is a pcb on the side that would be on top if rotated anti clockwise. Honestly the tate solution is later added functionality (scope creep). I would rather it just play the fighting games and standard orientation games well. But leave the door open

2) I was planning on having the rear open air, there's a 2 inch open between the control panel and the faceplate/bezel for ventilation running cords, and housing speakers. I'll likely drill a few holes aligned with the vent holes on the monitor.

3) The board master has internal speakers. As for custom ones I have an old set of 2.1 but for $30 these would help save on the real estate issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Thonet-Vande...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4CM418Z1HR7DRW5NZX7B


4) Yeah, I will try and keep track as best I can. I'll take notes and keep y'all posted. In fact, don't be surprised if I make a dedicated website for the project. Maybe if there is a v2 I can add a guide to make this easier on those who wish to attempt something similar in the future. The Board master is getting shipped EMS (2-5 day air) from tokyo tomorrow morning, so maybe by next weekend I can test this cps2 board, and i'll have lumber and rented tools.
 
twistedsymphony said:
cwx2 said:
Are there boards bigger than CPS2?
Click to expand...
Primal Rage:
Click to expand...
That's cheating... Primal Rage is larger than everything!

I'm going to say ~30% of my boards are larger in at least one dimension than cps2, if not both. Some are just wider (like system16), some are totally bigger especially Atari/Midway boards of the same era (Blitz/Seattle, Killer Instinct / KI 2, Mortal Kombat / NBA Jam). Certainly older games (Hyper Sports, Yie Ar Kung Fu) are larger, and I've never seen Asteroids/PacMan/Galaga era but I assume those are also larger.

Some stuff that's smaller - Namco Sys11/12, CPS1, CPS3, Neo Geo MVS, IGS PGM
 
I have a MK2 with the sub-ROM PCB, once you've stacked up the mainboard+ROM board+sound board and connected it all together with a kick harness...
The damn thing is a huge pile of unstable mess I'm preventing from shorting out via carefully placed layers of cardboard. :P
 
cwx2 said:
The Board master is getting shipped EMS (2-5 day air) from tokyo tomorrow morning
Click to expand...
You must have gotten a pretty good deal (congrats if you did!). I've seen Boardmasters sold for as much as cabs. Plus shipping something with those dimensions EMS isn't cheap.

Don't forget to factor this guy into your costs compared to just buying a cab :P.
 
rewrite said:
ekorz said:
Primal Rage is larger than everything!
Click to expand...
Of course it is! You couldn't WORSHIP THE POWER OF RAGE! if it were a puny PCB.
11013502.jpg
Click to expand...
Best part is that, as if it weren't big enough, I also use a JNX jamma adapter on it, so it's an extra couple inches longer than stock!

To think they fit PR2 on a ps1 base... how did they contain all that awesome?!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top