Early stages of my first real arcade project.

    • Story time.

      I did some more planning, thinking, measuring, and drafting, leading to a tweaked design. (pics attached)

      I was on my way to home depot on bike, when I rode past this place "Economy Lumber" I turned around and checked them out. I pulled out my lap top and showed the salesman my sketch up. He immediately got stokked and I could tell I hit his nostalgia string because he proceeded to tell me all about the Knights of the Round cabinet that was near his home as a child. This was lucky for me, because he has now offered to make the cuts I need for me at the lumber yard when I return there on Friday. He drew up a quote for me as well. (pic attached).

      Also for reference here is link to my libraries tool page.
      berkeleypubliclibrary.org/site…_bpl_tool_broch3_rev2.pdf

      Berkeley may be hella crazy with protests and free speech exercisers, and we may be the only place to tax Soda, but we have lots of quality free services like tools and the tastiest tap water I've ever had.

      My research also lead me to find out about this cool building space for real high rollers.
      techshop.ws/tssf.html ($150 a month)

      So for the cab it self so far its looking like:
      A) wood for frame - $60
      B) wheels - $22
      C) wood glue and screws - $10

      $92 + ??

      D) I think the only cost left is the mdf shell and paint, but that is later added functionality. ?($20-30ish)?
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    • MAINLY: Could someone let me know the stack height of a CPS2 with a multi installed?

      EDIT: Also where is the best place in your opinion to get a full 56 jamma extender. the 60cm one that comes with the board master is going to be short, and I should just have one?






      BUT ALSO: Standard CPS2 set up is about 3 1/2 inches high. (American system of units sucks)

      I am guessing with multi it is like 4 1/2 inches?.

      I am trying to build everything into my model and I have already thwarted many problems, and had to move things around. I have prototyped models to include room for speakers and subwoofter, stepdown transformer, shelf, surge strip.

      @ekorz you are right in that no matter how much I try this will not go 100% smooth. But I feel like I have given this enough thought to get me something I will be happy with.

      I using pretty much all butt joints, but if I ever get access to a legit shop v2 will utilize some of the more advanced joining techniques. I may drop $20 for a pocket hole set up
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      Post was edited 2 times, last by cwx2 ().

    • Update/notes:


      I decided while I was at it with this arcade cab build, I would take on another project, because why not? It will provide a good practice run for the cab. The other project given to me by my friend was a table for drinking games (beer pong, beer dice, snappa).

      So, yesterday I went to lumber yard, I was there around lunch time, so that was a bit of an extra delay. I collected the cut lumber for table and cab went over to homies house to build. Please excuse me being shirtless, it was hot and that is the only pic taken during assembly. The only power tool needed was a drill/driver. Other hand tools supplies used: a couple of clamps, wood glue, tape measure, pencil, corner square, sand paper.

      I ended up getting a pocket hole jig kit, and damnnn that made the build go super smooth. I got the R3 model for $39, a clamp to use it with is like $10.

      amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/

      Here is a good video on the device



      The table for the drunk kids was a good practice before I attempt the frame for the cabinet later today ;)

      Board master still aint here yet :(((

      Just up the street from where I live in Oakland the "Video Game Museum" (themade.org) is having the 6th anniversary party today/tonight. Bay Area people come check it out. Should be fun.


      Best Wishes to all
      Cwx2
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    • Here you go guys a minimum viable product. I was thinking a thinner plywood for the shell, but I have options.

      I am really happy and I cant believe nothing went wrong.

      Even if I call the end here, I picked up several new skills, had fun, and I have a functional piece right now today.

      P.S. Beer dice table was a big hit, lots of kudos from the ladies present.
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    • Looks ready for a HAS, psu, and some controls! Got all the cables already? Is that PVM going to be stablized by the enclosure? With wheels on there you'll need to hold it down I imagine, just be safe

      Good times ahead!
      have multi: cps2 cps3 ttx2 naomi st-v gnet f3
      want multi: cps1 mvs pgm 246/256 system16 system32 m92
    • ekorz wrote:

      Looks ready for a HAS, psu, and some controls! Got all the cables already? Is that PVM going to be stablized by the enclosure? With wheels on there you'll need to hold it down I imagine, just be safe

      Good times ahead!
      Oh, I'm ready, I'm ready, I'm ready. Ready for HAS, cps2 multi, mvs multi.

      But the Boardmaster is a sega control panel, psu, and video driver, all in 1. Tracking says its across the bay in San Francisco in customs, but once it gets here, it will be plug and play.

      Yeah I was not planning on securing the monitor any more, it feels very very stable right now, but yeah with wheels it might feel less so. We will see, I am sure I will get crafty or creative if needed.
    • Got the Boardmaster, turns out the sega genesis 8pin and the 8pin needed for this device are slightly different in size, either that or I am being too timid and not forcing it in hard enough. So sadly I can not get RGB out to the monitor at this time. I used the composite out to my framemeister just to test my boards. My cps1 hyperfighting fired right up (looks like laggy shit, but works). Then I tried to fire up the CPS2, remember the one that I got with the foot that sheared off. Well the first time I tried, it looked like I just got a bricked pattern, the second time I just got all white. I tried going just straight into the TV with composite then I got the bricked screen again. I only have this one B board to test with. So I am guessing either I have a B board battery problem or the A board got damaged in transport.

      Any help would greatly be appreciated.

      thanks
      cwx2

      Post was edited 1 time, last by cwx2 ().

    • cwx2 wrote:

      I tried going just straight into the TV with composite then I got the bricked screen again. I only have this one B board to test with. So I am guessing either I have a B board battery problem or the A board got damaged in transport.

      Any help would greatly be appreciated.

      thanks
      cwx2
      Test the voltage on the battery, that'll let us know how likely it is the battery killed it or if you should be looking elsewhere.
    • my boardmaster has a voltmeter built into its harness. It reads 5.06. Or do i need to check the voltage on the B board battery itself?
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    • cwx2 wrote:

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      cwx2 wrote:

      I am also undecided how I want to handle the audio
      2. all of the boards you're using also have RCA stereo audio out,
      Does CPS1 hyper fighting have RCA jacks? I am not seeing them, are there different board revisions that have it?
      No, none of them have RCA jacks. Apparently there is a header for stereo though on CPS1 boards:

      neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.…o-sound-from-CPS-1-boards