thank you, it's just a simple PCB i made, same concept with the UFB and Retro, i just added some extra pins for the home, back, LED and GND and resisters for the LED and places diodes in the VCC line. if i didn't add the diodes then both boards would power up even if one was connected
everyone seems to be mad at exa and we don't have any proof they're the reason, you're almost as bad as those zoomers on discord who hate exa because the other person hates exa
i was fortunate enough to have an old otg adapter in a box, while it's not ideal, it's a known working solution (confirmed by toyoshima) in case your PC doesn't work. there's been reports where it simply doesn't work on computers.
you can use your android to update and configure the IONA, according to toyoshima it works 100%. got this info from Shou who got this from Toyoshima and i can confirmed it working. i used an Android OTG + AtoA. it's the best way in case your PC can't recognize the device.
IONA v3 board just arrived, i was lucky that my laptop recognizes it easily. the main differences is you now do the button mapping on the settings page. you can set up to 6 different mappings then save them to the IONA. to recall them you long press TEST and SERVICE until the LED turns off. at...
I'm using the IONA-US with my exa and i tried updating to 2.14 and got an ERROR I/O so I downgraded back to 1.47 and all is fine. Just a word of caution.
UPDATE: was told it could've been the USB cable and to try a better one. since it's an absolute pain to get my computer to recognize the IONA...
it feels fantastic, i'm using it with my brooks board, you can remap buttons, map the same logical button to multiple buttons and add different rapid fire speeds