Recent content by cleure

Think you're talking about R433? That resistor gets really hot, and burns up, causing vertical collapse. I replace it with an 1/4watt (original is 1/8th watt) The pads and traces in that area can be sketchy, too.

flickys2 is the only version that's unencrypted, according to Mame. But it's for the board with the PIO chip, so not really sure if it would work without board modifications.

No markings on the chip (from the eBay photo). Looks like the pins are gold to me (comparing to the chip to the left of it). Here's what an original looks like. My money is on it being an original, that's missing the label.

The details of the sega "encryption" scheme is described here: https://github.com/mamedev/mame/blob/3f609b8cb8d49cd259d223e001d38235b1ddd619/src/mame/machine/segacrpt_device.cpp

I wouldn't be surprised if flickyup is encrypted, and requires one of the special Z80's. According to MAME, it does require the 315-5051 CPU, which would indicate that it is protected. FYI, the 315-5051 works by flipping certain data bits, depending on the address being read from and the type...

The link you posted, is referring to CGA/EGA, as in the computer format from the 80s. Not sure why or how CGA/EGA came to mean something completely different, in the arcade world.

If you're trying to hook up low/med-res arcade hardware, then I don't think this will work. EGA is not the same thing as medium resolution. People should really stop misusing the CGA/EGA terminology. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_Graphics_Adapter...

Same, silicone adhesive works best.

Make sure to join SMAC: https://seattlearcade.org/

I'd first check the game boards to see if they have dip-switches to flip the orientation -- that is a pretty common thing. Next option is to cut the yoke plug housing, to separate the horizontal and vertical wires. You are basically creating TWO plugs from one (one plug for horizontal, one plug...

A bad poly cap in the HOT/deflection circuit, will typically blow the HOT. This is general knowledge, not specific to the chassis you are working on.

5.5 ohms is probably too low, but I'm not sure it would cause the issue you are seeing.

Was it working before the swap? I always swap over the original yoke when possible. You have to go through the color purity and convergence procedure, when doing so, but the end result is usually better, geometry-wise. Remember that the chassis was designed to work with the yoke on the tube...

Ignore what others say about white nob flybacks, it's bad information. Replace the flyback if it has failed, or you suspect it might fail soon, but not because it has white nobs. It's also worth noting that almost all aftermarket (non-OEM) flybacks are lower quality than the originals. There...

FYI, that stuff is just glue/epoxy, to hold the plastic "key" in place.