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Do you have a picture of your M3 Rom board ? Or at least some EPROM numbers to identify the game ?

Haha thanks :D From the boards I fixed, 74HCxxx (can be any of them, usually a lot of them) are the most common failures. But in order not to waste time and desolder chips that work, my advice is to follow the tutorial order (check jumpers, check GAL,...). It's better to have a known working GAL...

If you give up on some of them and want to sell a few, I would be interested :)

Merci pour tes encouragements :) Le software a bien évolué ces 3 dernières années et avec BackForceFeeder (le logiciel de njz3 qui fait l'interface) en version 0.7+ ça devient franchement plus simple lorsqu'on configure tout soi-même de ce côté-là. Reste la partie émulateurs mais là encore, ça...

@squallrs just released a video about these boards ^^ For french speakers or english subtitle readers :D View: https://youtu.be/lbFED8JvRSc?si=5VecSR_Z4WPgRUS6

Wow!! 😍 Thank you so much for digging this treasure up! Can't wait to give it a try!!

Here is the pinout (on the label): https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/File:Sega_400-5198-01Y_pinout.jpg There is no 3.3v, so no Model 3

Model 3 boards also need 3.3v (on a 24pin JST NH connector) Maybe it is for Model 2 boards? They need 10pin JSTs for DC input. Here you have the pinout for Model 2 and 3 boards : https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-model-2-and-model-3-filter-board-pinouts.1121/

Just started making them :):):):):):)

Thanks :) Much appreciated

Hi Quinino, It is available, just PM me :)

Yes you could make this kind of cable and plug a PC or a phone to test the Amps/speakers/wiring side. And an opposite gender cable to connect a headset directly to your stack to test it maybe.

I'm interested! :) PM for a few questions

Is your tester in AC mode? Can you test your other transformer outputs? What is you black probe connected to? When you cab is off and unplugged, do you have continuity between the 2 orange wires you show on your photo?

Thanks guys! :) Prices depend on the version and the options you want. PM me for details :)

The Model 2 version for Daytona USA is now fully tested and works well. You can see it running here in an original cabinet: View: https://youtu.be/0Jv7Qj9sWF0?si=6z9A2LLDx0KAqjtr

This is not in my short term plans, but as I got an Outrun 2 twin cabinet quite recently, I should work on that sooner or later. Yes, maybe I was not clear enough sorry, but you're right, these boards are intended to help putting a PC in the cabinet and control it with the original panel...

I don't have an original motherboard, but I have an easy solution to replace it with a PC here. The problem is, if you want to link the 2 machines, you will have to install a PC in both of them... Let me know.

Hi, To make PC conversion of SEGA Racing Cabinets easy, I started making PCBs based on SailorSat, BigPanik and njz3's work and code. The goal is to have something Plug and Play, and user friendly from a Hardware perspective, doing no harm to our beloved cabinets. These PCBs are made to replace...

Thank you guys! Glad to be here :)