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Hi lolitslee, The design is ready but it hasn't been produced yet as I've had no request so far. DM me if you're interested :) Cheers

The m2lagfix error you get can come from several things, I think it's easier to put Model 2 games aside for the moment, as M2lagfix patch is involved in addition to emulator and windows network config, and need Jumbo Frames to be enabled (read this ...

Take one that supports Jumbo Frames (but maybe they all do)

Good!! :) I use a network switch, and here is njz3's manual: https://github.com/njz3/BFF_gameassets/tree/dd185d82ea3829033a4d99a65767b3a4739778cc/image_njz3 The main steps are : - set Windows network on both sides - set the network configuration of each emulator in the "Multi" folders of...

I didn't have time to dig more about the output issue. Apart from that, all the hardware part is ready. I DM you know if you prefer to have everything earlier with no outputs (like on my video) or to wait a bit more for potential (but not garanteed) improvements on output management.

Yes it works, I tried it. It's just a matter of button mapping. Couldn't get the outputs (lamps) working properly yet though, even with BigPanik's DemulShooter Special Edition dedicated to this game. I'll give it a few more tries. Even if I don't succeed, it will be possible to make the lamps...

I just tested Star Wars Racer Arcade emulated game on my Initial D cabinet (31k monitor, just like Star Wars Racer Arcade machine) Emulation is not perfect at all but the game is fully payable. The issues I noticed are graphical glitches on the Normal Track (water texture poping at the...

Hi, via DM :)

Ok, let's PM :)

You have to change dipswitch config when power is OFF I don't know sorry. Maybe @njz3 has an idea? In the meantime you can check your wheel calibration for this game in BFF, check the motor calibration in App and Hardware, and check if there is a calibration setting in the service menu of the game.

My pleasure, glad to see you're happy with it :) Remember the original Daytona EPROM is included in the MultiFFB board under "D1" name. You can try it again whenever you want just by selecting D1 EPROM and choosing RAW as Target Hardware in BFF :) Yes Power Law (above 1, it reduces small...

The board is available :) It's never been tested on actual hardware though, but I'm pretty confident the diagrams it is based on are correct, because they are similar to others that were proven working. If you want to try it yourself no problem, else I'll post here when I have a report.

Good! :) I don't know how the wheel should behave at startup, I don't know these Type A motors well enough. I know that for Type B (Touring Car, Le Mans...) and Type C with Model 3 FFB boards, the wheel init performs at startup without the need of a game. If it's the same thing for Type A, then...

Yes, look in the Button window of BFF when Outrun controlset is selected (you may have to temporarily disable the Auto Select Controlset at Runtime option in App&Hardware to do so), find your shift buttons and play with toggle options to find the behaviour that suits you

For your FFB it's normal, the method you see in my video tutorial with the COM thing is dedicated to JVS cabinets with MIDI or RS Servoboards. For Sega Model cabinets like your Daytona, you have 2 options: - Option 1 (not for you, as you want to play many games): leave your Driveboard as is...

Affirmative Sir :) So here it is: the SWRA MEGA Adapter for Sega Hikaru Star Wars Racer Arcade machines. It installs in place of the I/O board. With its two levers instead of the steering wheel and pedals, I tweaked the Arduino code with the help of njz3. This way, it's possible to play all...

Sure! :) You make me realize that I forgot to talk about this Star Wars model here. I'll correct that soon.

The Controlsets are to be put in Documents/BackForceFeeder/Controlsets Starting from 0 is a lot of work, even if it's a good way to know and understand your system. Maybe it will be faster just to replace your Controlset folder though. Up to you.

New board model, optimized for Crazy Taxi series and Jambo! Safari First post updated :)

Ok so for some reason you have an SSD optimized for an up/down shifter, so that's normal your H4 shifter is not set properly. I confirm that updating BFF and putting the latest config files from Github will be a good thing to do. Backup you current files to avoid mistakes. I don't use a front...