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It's an MS9-29. Good news is that I cleaned up around the anode and the cup itself with some isopropyl, then put dielectric silicone grease around the inside rim of the cup. Problem has once again gone away.

So, the problem has returned. I haven't been leaving the cab on long enough to know if it gets worse over time - I'd rather not find out! - but I guess the next step is to clean around the anode cap and get some dielectric grease in there. No visible sign of where the occasional 'crack' comes...

I cut the degauss loop and tried connecting a spare Pandora's Box instead of my usual RGB-Pi Jamma, and touch wood the problem's gone away.

Everything checks out. I don't have a V-sync pin wired up as it's not on the MS9 pinout. The two AC pins (6 and 7) are bridged (at the isolation transformer as well) but I'm guessing that's how they should be? Was repeating the degauss wiring from my old Sanwa chassis a mistake? Should I have...

I rewired my cab today with a new JAMMA loom which has fixed issues I was having with RGB but created an ominous crackling from the anode cap which also manifests as light speckles on the screen. The JAMMA loom itself has been tested before without this issue, but since then I've spliced it onto...

Great news! I'll take a board and cable whenever you're ready.

Do you have (or can you make) cables to go with the MS2930 remote boards?

Does anyone have precise specs/pictures for the remote board cable for an MS2931? Trying to get some repro'd. Cheers

BTW, is it true that these boards won't power up at all without a remote board connected?

Yes, the fuse thing has certainly lowered my expectations. I went into the whole Yahoo Japan thing as a one-and-done experiment and won't be too sore if it's a bust. There's also a small chance that the non-working 2930 I'm taking out (which came with the tube) still has a working flyback, so...

I've just swapped a non-working MS2930 for the MS2931 I bought through Yahoo Japan a while back. At first I assumed the 2930 power/RGB wiring wasn't compatible but a closer look suggested it was, so I hooked it up and gave it a try. Nothing - but then I noticed that the fuse on the board had...

Doesn't need the remote board or wiring but does need to be clean and in full working order. Cheers!