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Did you compare the same ROM between Mame und the F3 Multi?

I think it's just a matter of time until repros of those spinners will be made. Please also add a CPS2 kickharness connector. So it's a drop in in our CPS2 setups.

I will take one too.

I would take a 2nd unit for tate if it gets a clean revision with nice headers and professional made security cable.

Most of the time it's just incorrectly set DIP switches. Sometimes the remoteboard cable can be broken too and thus send wrong DIPs.

Awesome! How do we use this on STV-Multi?

You can't reflash the sound data anyway. Not sure how many people would be willing to begin with to experiment with +$1000 PCBs.

@Derick2k you can turn the uni-bios splash off and also I would turn off the MVS hardware test screen (the green jumbled one).

You can identify functions of pins here: https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?title=MVS_cartridge_pinout https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?title=Signals

1FS is IMO the most important board because it's the smallest stereo board. A lot of people use this, myself included.

If I can't buy it, it doesn't exists ;)

if we delete the 16MB "vroma0" music file from the menu folder. Will it boot faster? or stop and throw an error? It should shave off a couple of seconds...

Wouldn't you have a problem with them too if you do a PGM multi? 90% of people that want a PGM multi probably want it only for the CAVE games...

I would buy one conversion set for E3. If you make one for NNC I take 2-3 units.

I remember the sound to be corrupted. I could still somewhat make out the music etc. I think it sounded more like an analog problem, so hopefully it's the amp. Not sure if some sfx were missing, it has been a year and I currently have no access to the PCB.

How do I know if my ASIC is okay? I replaced the caps but the sound is still distorted.

Have you tried to replace the motherboard? It seems to be only 70 bucks https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157771 It's other off-shelf parts are even cheaper. http://www.ultimarc.com/jpac.html

Please have it off by default and don't waste loading time on loading the music if it's turned off.

So you did a complete replacement including the custom(?) DAC and op-amp? That would be a first and extremly helpful.

My guess it that for the reset signal one soldered cable will be necessary (like CPS2). It's optional though.