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Isopropyl 91% and a toothbrush or qtips. Just keep scrubbing it until it slowly breaks down. You might even have to pry it a little to loosen it from the frame.

It looks like the flyback screen pot is set too high and the rgb probably needs adjustments too. Was there something wrong with the flyback that they needed to change it? Hopefully they did not put a Chinese flyback in there, because they’re not very good compared to the original. I’ve never...

I had buyicnow burn this for me and it didn’t work either. I just assumed it was a bad burn

The caps on the daughter board for the high voltage look original. I believe there was a theory that those caps being out of spec can cause the chassis to toast up the tube.

There's usually 3, but I only see two in your pics Yes. Just make sure you put them back the same way they were connected. Otherwise you might get a flipped screen. You can also remove the entire metal chassis frame by removing the screws underneath the monitor frame.

1. Remove the screws that are holding the black plastic frame down to the metal frame. They are on the rear side of the chassis. There are usually 2 screws holding down ground cables, which your last photo confirms 2. Disconnect the red degauss cable from the chassis 3. Disconnect the AC line...

JCL does decent paint jobs from what I have seen. It’s not rattle canned with over spraying

For Sale Head 2 Head Sega Blast City Candy Cabinets with CPS1 I have two Sega Blast Cities available for sale. I have owned these cabinets for a few years now, and they just don't get any play time anymore. Here are the goods and bads for these cabinets. Good: Comes with Street...

I'll take a 20 pack. Thank you!

Honestly with a 2931 chassis, I would just send it to someone who knows how to fix it. It’s a known problematic chassis and very difficult to troubleshoot. If you have never done any CRT monitor work, this is not the chassis to start on imo. It’s the reason why people suggest not getting a...

Might wanna get a rejuvenator to test the green gun to make sure it’s not dying.

We tried using one of those AIO gbs-c units for cps3 capture and it didn’t work out well because it was missing the clock generator mod and some other cap mods. So I would follow up with the seller if it has these. The gbs-c isn’t focused on arcade hardware from the research I’ve done too.

I had that exact same issue in one of my blast cities. I had to send to PNL and they fixed it. He just told me it was the HV daughter pcb board and that he replaced components on it. I couldn’t get anymore info than that and not even sure if what he told me was accurate. I didn’t really try and...

I think the cps2av needs a redesign due to parts shortage. It has been out of stock for a long time.

It's a matter of trial and error when yoke swapping. Unscrew the consumer yoke and rings and they should just slide right off. Sometimes they're glued in place with some silicon, so you'll have to cut the glue to loosen it. Slide the nanao yoke in place and reuse the consumer television...

Some blast city power supplies are weak. I have one that struggles with the net boot even after a cap kit. But I have 3 others that power it with no issues. I would try and cap kit your power supply first to see if it handles the power fine. If not, SUN power supply it up.

Yes, and it’s recommended that you pull the monitor out while you adjust it. It’s too difficult to adjust that spc15 pot while it’s still mounted to the cab. I’ve done it before with it still mounted and it’s not fun.

There’s a thread about those Chinese flybacks on this forum somewhere. If I recall you need to dial in the HV pot to get the correct horizontal size but do not quote me on that. Honestly you should just use the dead chassis flyback and hope it works. Those Chinese flybacks are terrible.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/mounting-a-naomi-and-a-cps2-in-a-blast-city.22132/post-337710 Here’s how the lemony adaptor connects. You can see he’s pulling button 4 and 5 from the jamma connector which then goes into a female cps2 connector. From there you can connect to your blast...

Half your wires aren’t going into the Sega IO. On that particular IO I believe button 4 and 5 need to be pulled from the jamma finger and button 6 from the connector that your brown wires are going. @Lemony Vengeance makes kick connectors for this. Imo you should just avoid all eBay stuff and...