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Hey, we’ve got twins! Did you actually install a QSound amp in that thing or just add the QSound sticker?

So i ended up using a splitter to send the post-amp sound to the subwoofer. Problem solved! :)

Hi fellow Q Sound fans! Absolutely loving this thread and enjoying Q-Sound from my Capcom Impress with original amp. My problem is I’ve been trying to add a subwoofer while preserving the Q-Sound, but every time I try to split the audio signal to send it to the subwoofer (either with a splitter...

Looked at the other side of the LCD connector and...Uh oh. :-( Now I know what caused that burning smell. Must’ve happened when I tried to switch to a longer LCD cable. Damn...totally my fault. Can it be saved? Titles still burn & play fine, just no LCD display...

I tried switching with a different LCD and cable...no change :-(

Argh...my CPS2 multi was working fine but now no LCD display. Still works fine and all games working great. Tried switching with another known good cable but still no display on the LCD. Tried adjusting the Contrast dual on the board but still no text on the LCD. Help!

Count me in!

Interested! In both this and Sega System 16 :-)

Well I’m stuck. Switched the CLOCK and DATA wires back but still a white screen. My multimeter probes are pretty sharp, but testing connectivity with individual FPGA pins is beyond my skill level. At this point I just want to pay to ship the whole thing to someone for repair... By the way, my...

Thank you! After trying the multimeter, I tried switching (what I think are) the CLOCK and DATA wires so that DATA goes to CN9 #2 and CLOCK goes to CN9 #4. Now I get a white screen after a few seconds instead of a black screen. I’m not exactly sure which pins you mean by FPGA #1 and #2.

Thank you! I tried reversing the connector (it should be easier to see the connections in the below photo). Also tried re-shorting exc5 just in case. Still black screen — does this provide a better visual? Thanks for the help!

Thank you for the detailed instructions! I removed the battery and shorted exc5 (at least I think I did after pressing a screwdriver against the posts on the bottom and top capacitor of the board) but still black screen. Sorry for the poor photos- the ribbon wires are actually swapped on the...

I used a live (not suicided) type 7 Giga Wing B board PCB and carefully removed & preserved the ROM chips, assembled all boards, and soldered the 4 wires. Upon rewrite the LCD reads “Have Fun!” but I get a black screen. The board still has the original battery installed (see pics). Does the...

Interested

Updates: - audio noise was unrelated to positioning of the data cable. After firmly re-mounting the Darksoft PCB on the F3 motherboard this has been resolved. - missing Zone D background images have been resolved via patches (thanks!) - graphics glitches in specific scenes & areas of the screen...

Yes, I've tested the (now region-free) EU motherboard with an original Bubble Symphony cart which works fine. The tearing issue seems to arise in scenes like the beginning of Gekirindan and Darius Gaiden Extra where extra textures are being used for special effects, so I'm not sure if these...

Sorry, here's the image: I've downloaded the fixes for Zone D background and will apply them tonight to see if it resolves the issue...

No, unfortunately it affects all zones in the game as well as the intro. I’m also seeing similar artifacts in Gekirindan and other games, as well as intermittent audio corruption...

Everything works on my new Darksoft Taito F3 multi except for an annoying intermittent graphics issue that only seems to occur in certain scenes (see photo from Darius Gaiden Extra). I’ve tried reseating the board and multiple cabinets. Any thoughts?

Everything works on my new Darksoft Taito F3 multi except for an annoying intermittent graphics issue that only seems to occur in certain scenes (see photo from Darius Gaiden Extra). I’ve tried reseating the board and multiple cabinets. Any thoughts? Thank you!