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Since the footprint is largely unchanged, any thoughts on creating an hat for the DE-10 Nano for the MiSTer dudes? DirectVideo conversion would performed on the hat, then sent down through the EXT_IN connection for amplification of video and audio. Conceivably, P1 and P2 controls could be added...

Yes. 1.6.

Apologies, I have been traveling and out of the loop. Arthrimus built his JAMMAizer and tested it on a New Net City. His factory settings for JAMMAizer specified 475ohms on each of the RGB pots for which he said he felt that setting should work for "most" monitors. I used the same components...

I don't get why you guys are having issues. Let me ask this, when you connect a console up through SCART, do you have any issues with over-driving your monitors?

I believe 475 was a good value that Arthrimus found as he was building the units. It's not universal. But again, every monitor is going to be different. Phosphors on tubes even across the same monitors are going to behave differently after 30 years. We all calibrate our monitors differently...

475 ohms

Are you sure you are turning them the right way? Clockwise is turns down resistance. Anti clockwise turns up resistance. Also, make you use a multimeter instead of eye balling the levels on screen. There are test points for the RGB lines so you can ohm out the levels for each R/G/B channel.

It should. The amp is the same that is in the JAMMAizer. Arthrimus demonstrated he amped 31khz using JAMMAizer just fine.

I'll see if I can remove the resistors on the DC2VGA and put on the resistors for the Common attenuated sync levels. If that works, I'll put the post the gerber for the PCB.

Might be how I setup my DC2VGA. I used the resistors for SCART-safe sync levels

Welp, some success. I am powering the amp via USB and plugging it into a laptop. Using a Dreamcast and a DC2VGA adapter, I am able to get it working with RGBHV. So the passive sync combiner works. But switching over to RGBS craps out. The image isn't the kind that just flips vertically. It...

Just missing a resistor before I can solder the rest of the components and then I can give this thing a whirl.

After 4000+ posts on this forum, please conclude I have figured out how to calibrate a JAMMA PSU to +5vdc by now and that I would've calibrated the PSU on my JAMMA cabs to 5vdc. I wish to prevent damage to the device. So I am asking how to keep the 5vdc from the JAMMA PSU stable so the device on...

Thank you, sir.

I want to build a hat for the JAMMAizer that has a header that carries +5v from the JAMMA PSU. I want to ensure the power coming from a JAMMA PSU is stable across the 5v rail to ensure that I am not damaging an RPi or MiSTer that I would be connecting to it. Whether this is done with a regulator...

No. Just +5v. This has to work across many different arcade PSU's, not just a Meanwell.

I want to ensure 5v 4amps of stable power coming from the JAMMA edge connector. What is the best way to do this?

Two separate recent transactions where @tonyt76 was the buyer (JAMMAizer) and the seller (UVC Scaler). Zero issues either way.

WIP Never done this and am admittedly pretty bad at reading a schematic, but here goes (nothing). Let's hope I don't kill myself. The Goal: A test bench monitor. SCART socket soldered to a breakout PCB All grounds jumpered together RGB lines: 75Ω resistors terminated to ground 0.1uf...

Over at KLOV, Omar/Horacio/CandyCabKing/Arcade games is compared is to Billy Mitchell, thereby reaching a wider audience.