24kHz on Hitachi GMK-29FJ (Jaleco Pony Mark IV)

[Ape Cosplay]

Hey guys,

I'm in the process of restoring a Jaleco Pony Mark IV cabinet.
There's a lot of work in perspective, I already fixed the chassis but I have a question: it supports both 15 and 24k, on the chassis itself I found two connectors with both 15 and 24k positions, but at the same time there's a 15/24 button on the remote. For 24k, do I need to move the connectors AND press the button? I have doubts about it because of accessibility of those connectors, one would need to pull the chassis and that you can't do from the back door, you'd need to remove the whole back. So I'm thinking you need to move the connectors ONLY if you don't have the remote. Of course I could be ballsy and have a try but I'm too chicken to fry anything now that it works beautifully.
Maybe @Mukuro_W knows?

 

[BuddyC]

I have no experience with this cab, but here’s a copy of the manual
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/7/7c/Jaleco_Pony_IV_Manual.pdf

Also ran this page through google translate

 

[Ape Cosplay]

Thank you but my chassis is different, the 15K and 24K connectors are next to each other, there's only 3 pots at the front (RGB cutoffs) rest is on the remote (with no G gain at all).

 

[Ape Cosplay]

No one?

 

[BuddyC]

Take a pic of your chassis so we can help you ID it.

 

[nem]

No, it's a GMK-29FJ.

The instructions in the manual are for a GMK-29FS2.

I would move the connector and press the button. However, I don't think the button is critical, I would expect it to work both ways. Or at least it's not going to break anything if it's in the incorrect setting. The button is really easy to press. My guess is it applies an offset.

 

[Ape Cosplay]

@BuddyC, @nem yeah it's in the title, GMK-29FJ. I also found a couple other differences in the assembly of the cabinet, for instance the back part on mine has 7 x M4 screws on each side vs 6 in the manual.