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Your post has me thinking about finally getting in to 3d printing which I have thought about for a few years now. Although I would love to save money this tutorial is a bit much for me to tackle. Would u recommend the Prusa i3 mk2 kit?

I've thought about buying something in the $200 range to start but I feel like I will want to soon upgrade so might as well start with a really good printer.
 
saying you want to get into 3D printing for $200 is like saying you want to get into arcades for $200. Technically possible but you're either going to get something super crappy, something that needs a shit-ton of work, or something that's going to leave you with a half-assed result.

If you're looking for super cheap there's a good run down of the options here:

With that said the Prusa i3 MK2 is a damn good machine for the cost. capability wise the MK2S it's comparable to a $1500-$2000 machine.

The official kit runs about $700 I think, but it's an open source design so you do get a lot of clones... walmart even sells one in the $200 range: https://www.walmart.com/ip/2016-Upg...2034&wl11=online&wl12=919868952&wl13=&veh=sem
 
T, whats the best filament printer that you recommend?

Looking for something with the least amount of fiddling to get it working, something more automated that just works, reliable with good prints. Hopefully something mostly assembled that doesn't come in a million pieces :D

I love my resin printer, but the after print processing is annoying.

Budget $2,500.
 
I don't have any experience with these personally but the Lulzbot Taz 6 and Ultimaker 2+ both seem like really well designed, ready-to-go printers in your price range.

First layer adhesion is IMO the key to ease of use. if your bed is not perfectly flat or you have the leveling set incorrectly then you're going to have print problems, and resolving that ca be a pain in the ass. The Lulzbot line has automatic bed leveling, where it checks the distance of several points and then works out in software how to print "level" based on any deviation in the bed geometry. the Ultimaker uses a glass bed which makes for a perfectly flat surface to begin with (though it still needs manual leveling).

This is part of what makes the Prusa i3 such a great machine at a cheap price point, it has auto bed leveling with software compensation, and one of the few printers at that price range that does.

Second to that is just the general robustness and serviceability of the nozzle design. if the nozzle gets clogged or filament gets jammed how difficult is it to swap out. From what I understand both the lulzbot and ultimaker have easy to service nozzle designs.

On my own printer I have no automatic bed leveling and I've got an aluminum bed, the bed tends to warp over time which makes it a real pain to print (since once it's warped it's impossible to adjust to level). I'm in the process of building a glass bed for it. The nozzle design on mine is pretty great in that it's never clogged on me, however more than once I accidentally let it get to the end of the spool and had to disassemble the thing to swap the filament out (since there was no "tail" left for me to pull it out with). I'm not certain but I believe both the lulzbot and ulimaker have things in place to protect against this.

The ultimaker uses a "bowden" extruder which means the motor that pushes the filament is mounted outside of the build area and it pushes the filament down a tube toward the hot end.

The Taz6 uses a normal style extruder, which has the motor mounted directly above the hot end and "pulls" the filament in.

I'm personally not a big fan of the bowden style extruders as any flex in the material means that the extrusion is going to be less accurate, for instance they really can't do "ninja flex" or other similar materials because of this (it tends to bunch up and clog in the tube, or fail to retract properly). But they do have the benefit of much easier serviceability and much less weight on the gantry which means the gantry servo motors are less stressed and will likely be more accurate.
 
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Ultimaker 2 or 3. Best you can get for money.
 
saying you want to get into 3D printing for $200 is like saying you want to get into arcades for $200. Technically possible but you're either going to get something super crappy, something that needs a shit-ton of work, or something that's going to leave you with a half-assed result.

If you're looking for super cheap there's a good run down of the options here:

With that said the Prusa i3 MK2 is a damn good machine for the cost. capability wise the MK2S it's comparable to a $1500-$2000 machine.

The official kit runs about $700 I think, but it's an open source design so you do get a lot of clones... walmart even sells one in the $200 range: https://www.walmart.com/ip/2016-Upg...2034&wl11=online&wl12=919868952&wl13=&veh=sem
yeah that's what I figured and why I decided not to get a $200 printer. I actually meant to say $300 since the maker select 3d v2 was the one I was thinking about.

The clones concern me since there has to be a reason why the big price difference. How could you possible get something of the same quality?

If it wasn't for the 2 month backorder where they collect the money up front instead of when ships id have already ordered the Prusa i3 mk2. I could deal with them holding my money for like 2 weeks but I'm worried any number of things could happen in 7-8 weeks.
 
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If you got an UM2+, Lulz, Makerbot or a printer that can take it I highly recommend the Olsson Ruby nozzle. Super hard (of course) and you can print abrasives like carbon fiber without wearing out brass or steel.
I think Matterhackers has them as well as Dynamism in the US.

Yeah well, read up here teh Ruby
 
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