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brandon.arnold

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COMBO AV EX++ Supergun First Thoughts​

Updated: 7/17/2023

Overview​

Hi all. I wanted to share my experience the past couple of days, with the COMBO AV EX++ supergun. Buying it, what's inside, the good and the bad, and mods I'm considering. It's been produced for years, but I haven't seen any comments about it on the forum so I thought I'd chime in.

First, a quick summary: The enclosure, controls, and internal wiring/harnesses are premium, craftsman quality. This is where the high cost is going. The circuitry for A/V conversion is decent, but as-is, it will not be satisfactory for most in this forum (including myself), and will require bypassing or modding. The designer composed the A/V conversion out of generally available, fairly low-cost, packaged components. The result has some quirks. I recommend this supergun to someone who wants a well-built twin fightstick supergun and either (a) is complacent with a decent image quality, or (b) has no problem making lots of changes in the spacious room under-the-hood to extract the best image quality. It could be a modder's dream, in some ways. I will try to describe these options below and in follow-up articles.

COMBO_AV_EXPP_TOP.jpg
COMBO_AV_EXPP_REAR.jpg
COMBO_AV_EXPP_OPENED.jpg

Purchasing and Packaging​

Last week, I impulse-bought this control box from Sophia Corp. I purchased the full option package, $506 before shipping. Shipping is very high at $187, due to being expedited, international, and the sheer weight and bulk. You can view their inventory at ec.tops-game.jp (right-click > Translate to English in Chrome) and will have to perform any purchases through email instead of their website. It's not a modern ecommerce experience, but I really like working with this merchant and have used them for a decade. I'm not going to share photos, but everything I've ever gotten from these folks is packed beautifully. Such attention to detail, with the packaging, invoice, documents, etc.!

Features​

There are a few packages, and depending on where you buy it, the packages are conflicting. This page hosted by the manufacturer conflicts with the packages sold at ec.tops-game.jp. In my summary below, I will mostly refer to packages sold by ec.tops-game.jp online merchant.
  1. 2 player controls on a reproduction Blast City plate
    1. Sanwa Denshi JLF-TP-8 joysticks and OBSF-30 pushbuttons (2x6 pushbuttons + 2x1 coin + 2x1 start and 1x service menu button)
    2. Sophia Corp offers a "Soft Sound Package" with silent stick (JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK) and pushbuttons (OBSFS-30)
  2. Rapid-fire
    1. The "Full Option Package" on tops-game.jp has an 8-selector knob on the outside for this purpose; the Base Package at tops-game.jp uses internal switches and doesn't provide the knob.
  3. JAMMA in
  4. Video: 1x HDMI out, 3x VGA out, 1x composite video out, 1x S-VIDEO out, 1x RGB out via DIN8 port
    1. This is the HV full option package. The Basic Package from ec.tops-game.jp does not have composite or S-Video. And the page hosted by the manufacturer refers to a normal RS package that doesn't have anything but the DIN8.
  5. Audio: 1x HDMI out, 1x line level 3.5mm audio out, 2x left and right speakers with volume knob/potentiometer
    1. The DIN-8 analog port does not include audio, so the display will need to accept audio from the 3.5mm line out.
    2. HDMI does include audio
    3. These are basic mono 2" speakers. The bass and max volume are not very good.
  6. 5V adjustable PSU (model? see PSU.jpg attached)

Video Internals​

It is worthwhile to point out a couple of precursor superguns, the Boardmaster and PANA Twin, which wired RGBs directly to the output DIN8 (going directly to SCART). Many have pointed out how inadequate this A/V is, outputting unsafe levels to consumer TVs, that look blown out. The COMBO AV EX++ corrects this with the a basic video conversion board (Gonbes GBS-8220).
  1. Video upscaling/conversion is supported by the Gonbes GBS-8220 (specifically HCKJ-8200 v5.1 which is the latest version; see attached GBS-8220.jpg).
    1. I had to push a switch on this board for my older Sega Tetris / TGM PCB to work at all, but newer game PCBs worked fine.
    2. This is not present in the normal (RS) package described by the page hosted by the manufacturer.
    3. Out-of-the-box, this scaler is not ideal, to say the least. It introduces up to 2 frames of lag and processes all signals as 480i, causing 240p to have some flicker. Colors are okay but not comparable to a RetroTINK or OSSC.
    4. There is an amazing alternative firmware by Rama (github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control) that fixes this, but it is a fairly involved mod. As Bob @ RetroRGB covered in a video a couple of years ago, the board with this firmware outputs 240p correctly with a non-varying 4ms of lag, with 480i having less than a frame of lag, half that of the Framemeister.
      1. UPDATE 8/11/2023: It turns out the Rama mod is not ideal for this case. Rama's GBS-C project is clearly meant more for consumer console inputs. Sync times on arcade games vary wildly, especially early 90's and before, and thee GBS-C performs worse in the syncing than the original GONBES hardware.
  2. HDMI video and audio is enabled by a second VGA2HDMI converter taking video input from the Gonbes in (1) and audio directly from JAMMA, attenuated by a rear knob. There is no model number on this board and I don't know the origin (see attached VGA2HDMI.jpg). It does seem to work fine on my LG OLED display and Alienware LCD monitor. I expect this is a zero-lag device, but need to do lag testing.
  3. For the upgraded "Full Option Package" at ec.tops-game.jp, there is also an S-Video and Composite video output, from a decoder taking input from the Gonbes in (1).
  4. All of this can be bypassed completely to the DIN8 RGB port (same wiring as the Sigma superguns). This is the same as the normal (RS) package referred to on the page hosted by the manufacturer, which doesn't have any output ports except the DIN8. One can swap between them manually by unplugging / replugging harnesses (see attached RGB_BYPASS.jpg) internally to the unit; see photo.
    1. Again, RGBs is wired directly from JAMMA in this case, so unless this is going to an arcade monitor, it needs at the very least RGB voltage attenuation pots on the JAMMA harness. Ideally the attenuation circuitry would include an active amplifier (THS7374 or the like) to attenuate the signal and isolate it from the arcade PCB (see Tim Worthington's "AV-Driver for Arcade RBB 'Supergun'" article for why this is preferred to simple potentiometer attenuation).
    2. Audio is not wired to the DIN8.

Ideas, going forward​

Please give me more ideas! I will add them here.
  1. Changing the GBS-8220 firmware to Rama's GBS Control.
    1. UPDATE 8/11/2023: Don't do this. I tried it. Rama's GBS-C project is clearly meant more for consumer console inputs. Sync times on arcade games vary wildly, especially early 90's and before, and thee GBS-C performs worse in the syncing than the original GONBES hardware.
  2. Insert some A/V attenuation circuitry before the DIN8
    1. UPDATE 8/11/2023: Check out my update post, where I did this, in The Real Phoenix A/V amp for custom superguns, COMBO AV EX++, PANA, or Boardmaster
  3. Wire audio into the DIN8, consider changing it to the Sega Genesis 1 or Sigma Supergun pinout, for compatibility
    1. UPDATE 8/11/2023: Check out my update post, where I did this, in The Real Phoenix A/V amp for custom superguns, COMBO AV EX++, PANA, or Boardmaster
 

Attachments

  • GBS-8220.jpg
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  • PSU.jpg
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  • VGA2HDMI.jpg
    VGA2HDMI.jpg
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  • RGB_BYPASS.jpg
    RGB_BYPASS.jpg
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  • JAMMA_RGB_POTs.jpg
    JAMMA_RGB_POTs.jpg
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Last edited:
Thanks for the writeup. I was on the fence about this one, but it seems like the base package without upscaling is the way to go.
 
I thought about getting two of these and getting one player panels for a versus setup, mainly HD versus setup. But good to know about the converter needing modification to reduce lag.
 
Is there a way to adjust the voltage on those things without opening the unit? Some later boards are really power hungry and I guess that if you cant adjust the voltage..
 
I was close to buying this late last year but went against it due to the jamma edge being on the controller itself. I would have preferred something the line of having extra length for the connector. Obviously, I could have gotten an extender but for the price, I felt it should have been an option. I may still get one in the future.
 
Is there a way to adjust the voltage on those things without opening the unit? Some later boards are really power hungry and I guess that if you cant adjust the voltage..
@jammajunk Yes, I included a photo of part of the power supply. There is a +5V adjustment potentiometer.

I was close to buying this late last year but went against it due to the jamma edge being on the controller itself. I would have preferred something the line of having extra length for the connector. Obviously, I could have gotten an extender but for the price, I felt it should have been an option. I may still get one in the future.
I actually haven't ever seen a supergun without a jamma female port, and I have them from 5+ manufacturers. I have always planned to have a JAMMA extension, and Sophia Corp includes that as an add-on for this, if requested (for a price).
 

COMBO AV EX++ Supergun First Thoughts​

Overview​

Hi all. I wanted to share my experience the past couple of days, with the COMBO AV EX++ supergun. Buying it, what's inside, the good and the bad, and mods I'm considering. It's been produced for years, but I haven't seen any comments about it on the forum so I thought I'd chime in.

First, a quick summary: The enclosure, controls, and internal wiring/harnesses are premium, craftsman quality. This is where the high cost is going. The circuitry for A/V conversion is decent, but as-is, it will not be satisfactory for most in this forum (including myself), and will require bypassing or modding. Some may consider it an improvement over e.g. the Boardmaster, as it includes a cheap video conversion board (Gonbes GBS-8220) and frame-based passive VGA2HDMI conversion board. This can be bypassed completely through the DIN8 port, and there is ample space for modding in the enclosure floor. Or, as daskrabs says below, you can just get the RS (normal) package, which is equivalent to the Boardmaster and excludes any conversion circuitry!

COMBO_AV_EXPP_TOP.jpg
COMBO_AV_EXPP_REAR.jpg
COMBO_AV_EXPP_OPENED.jpg

Purchasing and Packaging​

Last week, I impulse-bought this control box from Sophia Corp. I purchased the full option package, $506 before shipping. Shipping is very high at $187, due to being expedited, international, and the sheer weight and bulk. You can view their inventory at ec.tops-game.jp (right-click > Translate to English in Chrome) and will have to perform any purchases through email instead of their website. It's not a modern ecommerce experience, but I really like working with this merchant and have used them for a decade. I'm not going to share photos, but everything I've ever gotten from these folks is packed beautifully. Such attention to detail, with the packaging, invoice, documents, etc.!

Features​

Check out this page, but here is my summary:
  1. 2 player controls on a reproduction Blast City plate
    1. Sanwa Denshi JLF-TP-8 joysticks and OBSF-30 pushbuttons (2x6 pushbuttons + 2x1 coin + 2x1 start and 1x service menu button)
    2. Sophia Corp offers a Soft Sound package with silent stick (JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK) and pushbuttons (OBSFS-30)
  2. Rapid-fire
    1. Uses 8-selector knob on the outside for this purpose; the normal (RS) package uses internal switches and doesn't provide the knob.
  3. JAMMA in
  4. 1x HDMI out, 3x VGA out, 1x composite video out, 1x S-VIDEO out, 1x RGB out via 8DIN Sigma AV port
    1. This is the HV full option package. The RS (normal) version / package only has the 1x RGB out via 8DIN Sigma AV port.
  5. 1x RCA L/R audio out, 1x line level 3.5mm audio out
  6. Built-in speakers with an on/off switch and volume knob
  7. 5V adjustable PSU (model? see PSU.jpg attached)

Video Internals​

I have not done anything but basic visual testing (yet) but all outputs seem to work fine and look fine.
  1. Video upscaling/conversion is supported by the Gonbes GBS-8220 (specifically HCKJ-8200 v5.1 which is the latest version; see attached GBS-8220.jpg).
    1. I had to push a switch on this board for my older Sega Tetris / TGM PCB to work at all, but newer game PCBs worked fine.
    2. Out-of-the-box, this scaler is not ideal, to say the least. It introduces up to 2 frames of lag and processes all signals as 480i, causing 240p to have some flicker.
    3. There is an amazing alternative firmware by Ravi (github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control) that fixes this. As Bob @ RetroRGB covered in a video a couple of years ago, the board with this firmware outputs 240p correctly with a non-varying 4ms of lag, with 480i having less than a frame of lag, half that of the Framemeister.
      1. I will circle back after trying this alternative for funsies
    4. Colors are pretty good, but nowhere near what an OSSC would do.
  2. HDMI is enabled by a second VGA2HDMI converter taking input from the Gonbes in (1). There is no model number on this board and I don't know the origin (see attached VGA2HDMI.jpg). It does seem to work fine on my LG OLED display and Alienware LCD monitor, but with no lag testing I would not hope for much.
  3. All of this can be bypassed completely to the DIN8 RGB port (same wiring as the Sigma superguns). This is the same as the normal (RS) package. This is done manually by unplugging / replugging harnesses (see attached RGB_BYPASS.jpg) internally to the unit; see photo. RGB is wired directly from JAMMA in this case, so unless this is going to an arcade or professional broadcast monitor, it needs at the very least RGB voltage attenuation pots on the JAMMA harness. I have one of these cables (see attached JAMMA_RGB_POTS.jpg) but can't for the life of me find any on the web, now.

Ideas, going forward​

Please give me more ideas! I will add them here.
  1. Changing the GBS-8220 firmware to Ravi's GBS Control.
  2. Re-wiring everything internally to a dedicated OSSC, or equivalent, and get rid of the GBS-8220.
    1. I feel like the whole point of this form factor is to have all A/V self-contained, so I want to stay true to that.
Dear Brandon thanks for your great explanation. I bought the same thing in Tokyo 2 weeks ago. Tried with any possible cable (vga to bnc on my crt), Din to Scart cable on my crt and also hdmi BUT unfortunately no video signal at all. Audio is there but no video ….any Helo ?….thanks a lot !
 
Dear Brandon thanks for your great explanation. I bought the same thing in Tokyo 2 weeks ago. Tried with any possible cable (vga to bnc on my crt), Din to Scart cable on my crt and also hdmi BUT unfortunately no video signal at all. Audio is there but no video ….any Helo ?….thanks a lot !
Hey there! I actually did need to press some button on the GONBES PCB inside the unit, to get the video output work ok some boards. I bet you are experiencing the same issue. You should see some instructions in the manual on the GONBES.
 
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