- Thread starter niceguy
- Start date
Q202:
7808 8V Voltage regulator.
D202 and D201:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2951978612...vMSlBVaTYm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Courtesy of reddit.
7808 8V Voltage regulator.
D202 and D201:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2951978612...vMSlBVaTYm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Courtesy of reddit.
Last edited:
Hi
I saw that reddit post too
Problem is Q201, Q202 are the Transistor not the D202 and D201
If they got that wrong they probably mis ID the other component as a 8v regulator
I mean you can spend a few bucks and order the regulators based on the only information available on the internet and give it a shot, assuming that they just made a simple mistake between Q and D which look awfully alike on a PCB.
Or do what I do and leave it in a bin somewhere for the next 7 years because it's a weird old thing that no one has an answer to that I felt confident enough about.
Sometimes you've got to just give it a whirl with the info available! Worst that can happen is you blow a cap or one of the other transistors.
Narrowed down faulty component to Q202 one of the transistors, hopefully all my problems end when I receive replacement component
Bad news and good news.
Changing just the transistors did not fix the CDX
So I was like ok, blindly copying other people guesses wasn't the solution. I was going to have to actually troubleshoot the CDX myself.
Got out the power supply and limited the current to 1.5A, hit the on switch and the cdx as expected didn't come on but I was drawing THE MAX 1.5A. Ok I have a short but where.
Got out the thermal camera and observed only the transistors going nuclear at 95F, the rest of the pcb was room temp. Well since I just changed both the transistors I knew they were not the cause but where is the short, it could be on the power pcb or the motherboard and god help me if it's the motherboard.
So I decided to buzz out the mating connectors on the power pcb and the motherboard and compare how many pins buzzed to ground. I discovered that the power pcb had 2 pins that buzzed to ground that the motherboard didn't have. Checking the bus line I found out that these pins were shorted together. So the first thing I decided to checked were the caps and very quickly found that the 470 had a dead short. Changed the cap and both transistors again and my CDX fired back up and works 100%
So if you have a CDX you fried with the wrong power supply check both the caps and transistors on the power board.
Changing just the transistors did not fix the CDX
So I was like ok, blindly copying other people guesses wasn't the solution. I was going to have to actually troubleshoot the CDX myself.
Got out the power supply and limited the current to 1.5A, hit the on switch and the cdx as expected didn't come on but I was drawing THE MAX 1.5A. Ok I have a short but where.
Got out the thermal camera and observed only the transistors going nuclear at 95F, the rest of the pcb was room temp. Well since I just changed both the transistors I knew they were not the cause but where is the short, it could be on the power pcb or the motherboard and god help me if it's the motherboard.
So I decided to buzz out the mating connectors on the power pcb and the motherboard and compare how many pins buzzed to ground. I discovered that the power pcb had 2 pins that buzzed to ground that the motherboard didn't have. Checking the bus line I found out that these pins were shorted together. So the first thing I decided to checked were the caps and very quickly found that the 470 had a dead short. Changed the cap and both transistors again and my CDX fired back up and works 100%
So if you have a CDX you fried with the wrong power supply check both the caps and transistors on the power board.
Last edited:
What was the other rare Sega fix
My Wondermega RG-M1 had fading video out the moment it turned on, and then after that was lacking blue.
