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  • Escarioth's Aluminum Cases

    nassekova - - Project Showcase

    Post

    Quote from KalessinDB: “Writing it back again: I'm in for 1 TMNT case. ” Same here!

  • Escarioth's Aluminum Cases

    nassekova - - Project Showcase

    Post

    Looking great! Just re-capped my TNMT board so it should be futureproof. Now it only needs this gorgeous case poisss.jpeg uuet_002.jpeg

  • Pgm cave boots

    nassekova - - IGS PGM/PGM2/etc. support

    Post

    Quote from ITATTRACTS: “I can vouch for sheep, I purchased a PGM and four carts from him, they all worked great and he threw in an extra PGM motherboard for free in the box. Nice guy. 6 months later, everything still works great. @EVLM ” Exact same case here! Ordered all three 3 shmups and motherboards for me and my friend. Really cost effective compared to Ebay and even got one extra motherboard too!

  • Escarioth's Aluminum Cases

    nassekova - - Project Showcase

    Post

    This is awesome! One TMNT for me too

  • Well thats exactly what I got With this green one I thought is for the bigger chips? But I guess those DIP are even larger. Thanks for the heads up, will get that bent flathead too!

  • I bought the Wellon VP-598! Thanks for the help. Also bought that 17$ UV eraser and some extracting tool for the chips. Now just need to wait them to arrive and start digging what those EPROMs have eaten!

  • Quote from ShootTheCore: “I"m not as familiar with the specifics of PGM carts as other folks here, but one place you can start - if you have access to an EPROM programmer, try removing the two EPROMs, dump them, and compare the checksums of the files against MAME. It's possible that one of those EPROMs is corrupt or failed. ” I don't have one yet, but it seems I need to get one! I think there was topic in here where they recommended good readers/programmers so I guess I will start there. If you …

  • I got this "untested" Bee Storm and it seems to have something wrong. At first I just cleaned the contacts and it booted to red or grey screen. Once I got it to boot on this weird symbol. Today I started to work with it properly so I - Opened it up. Cleaned the contacts good and checked them with multimeter (those that seemed a bit dirt or so). Also washed the plastics (took the label off first). - Changed all the capacitors. There were 4x 10uf 16v caps, 1x 47uf 16v and 1x 100uf 16v. Got new low…

  • Got this cleaned up now! With new caps it plays, looks and sounds really good That "wet splash" on the back is a new coating of electronics lacquer. That gasoline melted some of the old so I fixed that too. It seems that volume is now higher but not sure if there are any additional sounds with these sound caps in it. That volume might also be a placebo effect since I really didn't listen to the board that keen earlier Well, anyways really happy how it came out! puhhhhtas.jpeg konkkaa_001.jpeg te…

  • Yea, sound worked. Dunno if there are some extra sounds that were missing because of the capacitors or are they just for the volume and filtering. Need keep an ear on the "high pitched squeal" that streetfighterken mentioned. All I know that can be part of the reason why those caps were removed in the first place or something. Need to test it with all the new caps and if the sound is somehow worse, then drop these two out. I thing the picture was a bit bright compared to my other boards, so I ex…

  • Sengoku Blade / Tengai PCB (SH404) The lower 10uf was 16v, but I will replace both in 25v so thats why they are on same color on the picture. 1x 10uf 16v 1x 10uf 25v 6x 100uf 16v 3x 4.7uf 25v 1x 47uf 16v 1x 2200uf 16v capmap_tengai.jpeg

  • Started to clean this board today! I was at the office pretty late today so did not have that much time on this, but at least I got those old capacitors off. Cleaned and scrubbed the backside pretty good (toothbrush + IPA) and started with the front, but will continue from here tomorrow. And it was not just a dirt, some of these capacitors had leaked like they tend to do when they are 25 years old. One capacitor lost it's leg just by picking it up... Going to get some nice low ESR Panasonics on …

  • It was ArcSys101 but actually he never said those words "good condition". I just assumed since he said it is original, working good and showed me the video where the game was running. I just assumed that in collectors forums you would mention things like this and they would be considered on the price. Clearly assuming on the internet is never a good idea But it is ok now. I chat with him and he refunded me some of the money to compensate the condition. I am happy with the purchase now!

  • Quote from streetfighterken: “That's a rough looking board. In this case, looks like the caps are for the sound circuit. C18: 2200u 16v C7: 100u 16v By the way, my board has a high pitched squeal that I'd like fixed if anyone knows. I've already changed caps. I've heard amp could be it. ” Thank you! Yeah, this board needs some good cleaning and I'll need to re-cap it. At least for now on I know better not to buy stuff without seeing some high detail pictures first. Collectors forum or not, peopl…

  • I bought a Tengai PCB from this forum and got a video where it is up and running and it all looked good. Today when the courier got me the PCB, first thing I noticed is that it misses a large capacitor I mean, this is usually stuff you inform when you are selling boards or is it custom in here to sell stuff in full price when there are parts missing? Well the board it selfs seems to work "all right", but I can't believe that the cap was there for no reason at all... Usually these larger capacito…

  • Later with less 10uf caps is: 93646A-3 and the one with all the caps is 93646A-4. So I guess they are rev. 3 and 4? Work firewall blocked the drive so could not check if you guys already had these there. Here is a picture of the rev 3 where you can see most of the 10uf caps replaced with ceramical valamista.jpeg

  • Here is a CPS2 A-board "capmap" if it is any help. I did two of these lately and 2nd one of those had most of the 10uf electrolytic caps replaced with ceramics, so be aware. This capmap only has electrolytic ones, so no ceramics. and don't mind the picture, it is out of scale and just to give some idea where they locate 5x 220uf 16v 31x 10uf 25v (the amount on later rev is much smaller) 3x 47uf 16v 2x 100uf 16v 2x 22uf 16v 4x 1uf 50v 1x 2.2uf 50v 1x 1000uf 25v capmap.jpeg

  • Well I tried it with my BVM now. Green line flashes fast and thats it. No picture, no sound. At first tried with HAS default settings, and then Csync "unprocessed" and there was no difference (sync level 75ohm). Back to drawing desk with it...

  • Yeah, I think I'll test it with my Sony BVM and if it shows no life at all it will get difficult for me to troubleshoot. I don't have any equipment to test any of the chips, so need to start looking on that stuff then. Or as always, it can be some broken trace somewhere hidden etc. I'll let you guys know what the Sony monitor says about it!

  • Actually now when I looked that JAMMA pinout closely, I calculated those pins wrong. Missing KEY hole on these bootlegs really fucks you up And it did not help that pinout picture which I was using had key marked on the right side of the connector.. Need to print some kind of JAMMA cheat sheet like on this picture for later repairs... But for the problem: Video Ground actually is connected! So that is not the problem... tolleen.jpg