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  • If I had to guess I'd say they were 10 mm in length or so. The shorter the better IMO because I've ended up snapping the screw posts in some of these as I've tightened the screws down. In the last set I printed I'm holding the halves together with tape because of this. The threaded holes in this print are a bit too small and I should probably redo them.

  • can I also get on the list please?

  • Oh yeah I wanted to go back through the NVS and try to undo this hackjob. I then noticed that I was getting a buzzing from my speakers. Was kind of peculiar because the MVS single slot board induced no buzz/hum but every other jamma board I've tried in my astro has this buzzing if audio is pulled from the jamma edge. Audio is all good when stereo is input though. I thought maybe the speakers were hacked and wired in parallel at first but have verified they are wired in an 8ohm config

  • I've been thinking about rewiring my hacked up NVS since the previous owner bypassed the audio amp altogether to wire it for MVS. Is the proper pin to input audio signal from the jamma edge on this PSU/amp through the same connector that the service and test buttons are on, through the 'AF+' and 'AF-' pins? Or should I jump 'L+' to 'R-' on the 4pin audio input connector and wire the mono audio output 'speaker+' to 'R+' and 'speaker-' to 'L-'?

  • with an 80% fill factor the large pieces are about 100 grams a each. The small spacer is around 6 grams. 1 kg of PLA filament is $30-$40?

  • Quote from Aurich: “Quote from snakeGrave: “not really sure of the cost for the plastic since I just have unfettered access to these printer in a makerspace ” What do they weigh? Cost is easy to calculate off weight. 1kg PLA spool is around $20 give or take, cheaper if you cheap out, more if you get quality. IME you get what you pay for. ” I'll throw these on a postage scale and let you guys know

  • the bottom and top took about 9 hours a piece, not really sure of the cost for the plastic since I just have unfettered access to these printer in a makerspace

  • I saw a really nice solution to housing Fluffy's boards in another thread maybe we can start consolidating solutions here? I've included one solution I've been working on, it does require some lengthy prints. I used an ultimaker 3 that I have access to for making my parts. This case is printed in 3 parts and I tried to mimic the stock PGM shell as much as possible. In the screw posts I tapped them for m3 threads after printing. I probably won't make any more changes to the files since I screwed …

  • I was thinking about making some bumper type holders that would print easier/faster and make inserting the boards the wrong way impossible. Could maybe modify my parts to realize something like that if these work

  • Working on an stl for 3d printing shells for these boards. Need to make some revisions and still print the other half but I’ll share the files when I know I’ve got something that’ll work. Bottom half works ok aside from the socketed Roms bumping that oval

  • try him on twitter @KaPH33n twitter.com/majorsfool

  • Not my dip switches, I think it's just my PGM has an extremely finicky cart slot.

  • I'm pretty confident it was the state of my PGM, DIP 4 is indeed for freeplay but seems to have no effect when running this particular game. I'll go back and flip the switches a couple times when I get home and see if I can reproduce my former audio issues. I played through this game last night though and everything checked out... dip switches were on (down) at that time

  • 1)Pulled U8 and left U9 in and there was no noticeable difference in audio, music was still rad and voices/some effects remained garbled. 2)pulled U9 as well as U9 and audio was mostly just fart like noises. No solid music or effects really 3) I then put the old U8 into the U9 position while leaving the U8 position unpopulated: same result as in situation 1, this seems to rule out that I have a bad LS74257 in U8 or U9 positions? 4) U8 and U9 populated with switched chips from my starting point: …

  • Voltage was dropped to 5 volts, then I pulled M1. After pulling M1 I did the following -tested the cart with no M1: no sound at all... duh -read and verified the programmed M1 rom with my existing M1 bin file. It checked out fine according to my programmer -then programmed another 27c322 and popped that in: the same audio symptoms are occurring, good music but strange sound effects Fluffy the music is all good the sound effects seem off and voices are certainly wonky. I'm going to pull the LS742…

  • Had the chance to assemble a set of these this afternoon. Everything seems to be working great for Ketsui except any voices and some effects for audio are either garbled or missing, like when you select a character or collect a power up. - Components used are from the linked Mouser cart, thanks for putting that together acblunden2 - I have not yet pulled, my M1 or U8-10 to verify their contents/functionality, I plan on doing this tomorrow since I did not use sockets on these - I fired up the sam…

  • That was it, thanks again EDIT: 2 of my 3 rom files were incorrect too, this had nothing to do with me running the script improperly though.

  • I'm having some trouble running this script. I've updated to Python 3 I believe that I have the correct rom sets in the same directory as the script however after running the shown commands I'm not seeing any output text from the script indicating that it is writing any new files. Any glaring issues? Thanks much

  • got the boards, as well as the parts from acblunden2's list on Mouser. Gonna have to get some preprogrammed GALs but I'm off to a pretty good start

  • I'll take it direct as well if it makes more sense