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  • No, they aren't even remotely similar. Dangun uses the YMZ280 for ADPCM playback. DonPachi has a shitty budget sound section that only has two OKIs for ADPCM playback, and the NMK IC is responsible for banking the OKI ROMs. I live in San Jose, and could probably take a look at the board.

  • Nanao MS-2931

    Hatsune Mike - - Monitor Help

    Post

    The flyback didn't fix my 2931, but it's not any worse either. I expect my original flyback is fine.

  • Generally HV protect is to prevent HV being too high, not too low, I think. I would expect the only consequence to be a slightly dimmer image and it being too wide.

  • Nanao MS-2931

    Hatsune Mike - - Monitor Help

    Post

    I received one of these and I'm going to use it to try and resuscitate an MS-2931. With the sizing issue, the HV might simply be a bit too low (lower HV produces a larger image due to reduced electron travel speed). With an HV probe, the HV can be tested.

  • Focus comes from a division of the high voltage generated by the flyback, so if it's drifting, it could be that the divider is bad internally. The MS8-26 flybacks are generally pretty sturdy, so it would be an odd case if that turns out to be it. It's not impossible for it to be the tube, either, but continual drifting would be strange. By any chance, did you clean the CRT neck, and is there a chance the pins are wet? I've had a bit of residual water be on the focus pin while powering up a tube,…

  • Nope, it's not a DAC at all - it banks the OKIs' ROMs on a per-channel basis to increase the effective storage of the ADPCM playback. If you're frustrated with it, I might be interested in it in its current state.

  • The replacement OKIs are known for having various issues, though usually that's what we end up removing rather than installing. Unfortunately, the only way I know to source OKIs is to take them off of dead PCBs, or find a clone that is confirmed to be in cooperating condition. As for DAC... I'm not sure which DAC you mean. Doesn't the OKI output analogue audio? One other unfortunate possibility is that the NMK sound banking hardware is defective. That is used to bankswitch the OKI ROMs, and sure…

  • I wonder if one of your OKIs has gone bad, and could be behaving on the test bench JAMMA setup if the 5V supply is subtly different. I don't recall if DonPachi has a little 7805 for the sound hardware or not.

  • chutes! These cabs are looking really great.

  • No, that chassis also expects MS9-like impedance, yet the focus voltage is typically a tiny bit too low on typical Toshiba MS9 tubes. If you pair it with a Hitachi MS9 tube, you'll get a low heater voltage, but exchanging the current-limiting resistor can bring that up to 6.3v and then you'll have a workable focus range. tl;dr: Toshiba D29CR051 "NNC" chassis pairs well with the Hitachi MS9 tube after exchanging heater resistor Sanwa PFX chassis pairs well with Toshiba MS9 tube without modificati…

  • Yep, that's all been fine. If dimensions are off a tiny bit, you can do well by slightly reducing HV for a larger picture (not changing B+, just the HV itself). MS9 tube and yoke are plug and play; all the same connectors and suitable impedance ranges.

  • In my experience the act of threading the nut on there tends to take off the coating. Maybe give that a shot before trying much else, it might be fine as-is.

  • I don't think the MS9's tube is any lower in pitch than the PFX original. I'm pretty sure the original PFX tube is also single focus.

  • Keep in mind if you plug speakers into the JAMMA harness directly you forego volume control, so you'll only have the PCB's volume. It can be pretty annoying after growing used to having cabinets with volume attenuation (Astro, Egret, etc) and having to go back to the older style (Aero, SNK Candy, etc)

  • I left a reply in the Splitfire thread to describe the current status of these projects: NAC Splitfire: JAMMA streaming solution

  • Hi all, It's taking me a lot longer to return to this than expected so I owe a little explanation. There's nothing particularly complicated or new - I'm still wrapping up Gimmick!, and what little free time I am able to carve out is nearly always immediately occupied with something else. On the bright side, I think these added changes are going to make this release of Gimmick a much better game, and people will be happy with the results. The Rev 2 PCB is basically done, and I've got to be able t…

  • Dim Picture Nanao ms2931

    Hatsune Mike - - Monitor Help

    Post

    If the heater pins 9 and 10 measure ~6.3V, then the resistor isn't the answer, though. Having talked with @codecrank it sounds like the heater is already at the correct voltage. It might be a good hack to get more brightness out of an EOL tube, but a restore / rejuv is a good first step towards that imo.

  • For that, I'd desolder the audio transformer, and then just pull audio from the MVS's headphone output. That might not be a bad feature for V2...

  • Powering anything but an EDID EEPROM off of VGA pin 9 is sort of not what that pin is for, and it's usually current limited rather heavily. I doubt your issue is related to this, but it's worth noting that getting 5V elsewhere is a better idea. You may have experienced inline HDMI->VGA DACs and other peripherals that aren't terribly reliable, and this is often the cause.

  • Sounds like a supergun that uses the positive speaker terminal with reference to ground