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  • BOM FTW! You rock!

  • Kold is a whole other human

  • @Frank_fjs guru is guru on klov, also he’s here @Mr T Guru. As far as I know he’s guru everywhere because well he’s been guru for like 20 years or more this guy made his own I guess? Just saw him on AO the other day: forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopi…0&hilit=trackball#p520838 edit: looking at it now I think I like gurus better, his uses jst xh for the input I think and that AO one uses just.. what, DuPont pins? But yeah there’s room for improvement as @twistedsymphony mentions, and I agree

  • Quote from rewrite: “Quote from Frank_fjs: “the Mame guru guy sells a repro but asks $120 for it ” I could have sworn I gave @ekorz like $40 or something when he did a group order. Were they really $120??!? Offer's still out there if you want to use my Guru repro for designing your own. Just ship it back whenever, I'm not using it. ” Yeah our batch was cheaper, call it the early-bird special I guess! I would personally buy another pcb, this one doesn’t line up properly with the holes in the moth…

  • Quote from BlueCrab: “Trying to port KallistiOS to work on a NAOMI or NAOMI 2 board is actually the main reason I bought the board I have. ” I'm guessing you must already know @MetalliC (DEmul dev) already but I'm tagging him anyway because that sounds pretty awesome

  • If you have two working netdimms then you could swap around those pcbs to see if you can at least identify if the top or bottom board (or both) are bad. Certainly sounds like the bottom board might have an issue. If you want to snap some photos or something we might be able to take a look, but hey if you have a return policy why not?

  • Loaded voltage is all that matters, and maybe I'm just paranoid but I'd dial that in at 3.3v on the nose. But being that close I'm not going to say that's the issue... So booting another dimm or cart, the motherboard works fine? If you de-case this dimm and try seating it directly to the naomi, it may get a better connection. You can also try just seating the bottom board from the dimm and see what that does. It should give you error 22.

  • JSTPinout.jpg First thing I'd do is grab a multi-meter and make sure your 3.3v is getting 3.3v. You can confirm the 5v line also but they're very picky about that 3.3v.

  • While i wish I could help I didn’t even realize f3 had single board revisions. That said your photo above is of your football champ board! MAME only seems to have one pcb listed in the driver, different part but it might be similar enough, for light-bringer github.com/mamedev/mame/blob/1…rivers/taito_f3.cpp#L1670 Good luck and if it doesn’t work out darksoft did build a multi for the cart version of f3: Taito F3. Sales Open. Get your cart here

  • For anyone in the same boat - I was getting some audio issues on mine. Saw a recommendation on github to flip dip4 on the pcb. So far so good...

  • Best CPS2 game to Multi

    ekorz - - Capcom's CPS2

    Post

    These guys might have a board for you, or you can just say hi: Australian Roll Call / Registry / Deals Thread Any cps2 board will work but Marvel vs Capcom and X-men vs Street Fighter are usually pretty cheap and common, and come with a G PAL already for the simplest install. Buy a working one, some old info is out there about only using a dead board but that’s not the case anymore. Save yourself a headache and use one that’s already working, either on battery or phoenixed already.

  • @ShootTheCore Slap a socket on SND1 and try concatenating the other 2 sound files on there! Maybe they just forgot a rom! Probably a jumper on C34 too. For science! Edit: twisted you beat me this time...

  • Hello Everyone!

    ekorz - - Introduce Yourself!

    Post

    Welcome! You’re in the right spot. There are several folks here who have dug in deep with particular systems so you’ll fit right in if you want to focus on F3. Also have several creators of controllers, superguns, adapters, and generally all kinds of cool and useful arcade stuff. Surf around a bit and I think you’ll see the community is very good at providing feedback especially if you contribute yourself and have interesting ideas.

  • Apoc thread: Sega player expansion board - I/O board (837-7968) reproduction @Mr T Guru better site link: members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9j…gurudumps/s32convert.html

  • Guru did some repros, I’ll see if I can find the schematic but he has a bunch of posts about it: members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9jp1_nbn/gurudumps/index.html I also saw some here: forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopi…9412e7fd8be00777acb9b7d3d I have one of the guru repros. @Apocalypse was doing a multiplayer pcb repro but I forget where that ended up. Let’s see a combined pcb with both trackball and multiplayer, with a toggle or something

  • You can order potentiometers from digikey or mouser. Most times there is a code on the part that will tell you the required resistance, got any up-close photos? Look for something like 3 numbers - 203, 104, etc. Then it’s a matter of finding one that’s close, and fits. Grab some calipers and measure the distance between the pins. Of course just because the volume doesn’t work, doesn’t mean it’s the potentiometer that’s faulty. Do you know it’s that part for sure?

  • Quote from rewrite: “Square things are U37 and U38 on the motherboard, swapped over from the SFTM motherboard to the GT one per @ekorz instruction. Doesn't actually make a difference. The old ones work fine, the new ones work fine. ” That’s why I do wonder if ITSF-1 PIC and ITGF-1 PIC might also be the same. I may try that too. The ones on the mother had different labels which is why I swapped them originally. I was very surprised to find that didn’t matter

  • 55qXux5_d.jpg I think @rewrite needs a dump of the PAL on the actual SFTM rom board, U1 labeled ITSF-1, which isn’t the same as golden tee which is ITGF-1 I think. Labels can be misleading and it’s worth a try, but I didn’t see that one anywhere including jammarcade