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  • Curie point iron would be better, a lot better.

  • Should be possible. Wanna be the guinea pig?

  • Quote from Derick2k: “Frank you think you can adapt the selector for use with the Crystal System multi by Brizzo?? ” I see a 4 way dipswitch but no separate header to access it. So it could be done but you'd need to de-solder the current dipswitch and solder on the selector PCB or alternatively solder some wires to the underside of the dipswitch and run a harness to an OLED selector device.

  • If people are happy to supply their own USB C cable and IR remote (or use an existing IR remote they own) I should be able to do it for $60 AU / $35 US. That's for both the main OLED unit and wired extension board which also contains an OLED screen. The first units will be ready in a matter of weeks, just awaiting some parts...

  • It can be found cheap on Ali. I just don't want to be responsible for ordering 100s of them and having them not turn up, delay the order etc. Better for people to order their own I feel.

  • I can do STV and M72 as i know people I can borrow these multis from, @dexster and @oneleaf86 respectively. @opt2not thank you! I'd suggest starting with M72 in your own time. This should be quick for me to smash out as it won't differ much from S16. STV is a little trickier but just as doable.

  • That works. I'll include the functionality for an infrared remote and code it to accept an OSSC remote. I won't supply remotes to keep costs down. Personally I love the IR remote, once you try it you might too.

  • It can be omitted. Or, if you're willing to purchase a $5 programmer you can code any old remote you have laying around the house, perhaps a spare TV remote etc.

  • I was a little ambitious on the price, neglected to account for the second set of components for the wired remote board. Not far off, maybe a $5 discrepancy. I think the best way to keep the price in line with my expectations is for people to utilise their OSSC remote or buy one for a few dollars themselves if they don't already own one, and supply their own USB C cable. They're well priced ex Amazon etc. I'll create a proper new thread over the weekend to garner interest and take orders etc.

  • So a tentative guide on pricing, $35 US for the whole kit and kaboodle. That's the main unit plus wiring harness plus IR remote plus wired remote board plus USB C cable. I can make it cheaper by omitting (or at least making these items optional) the IR remote (use the one from your OSSC for example), the wired remote board and allowing the end user to supply their own USB C cable if needed for the wired remote board. I'd rather not have to supply IR remotes and USB C cables as these are generic …

  • @opt2not & @nem I've managed to further optimize code and have room for three more 128px bitmaps. The following games are using a 64 pixel wide bitmap: PassingShot SuperLeague SukebanJansiRyuko AceAttacker SonicBoom SDI GoldenAxe AlteredBeast HeavyweightChamp Turyumon FantasyZone RyuKyu Tetris Bloxeed Honestly there's no expectation here, all the bitmaps look great as is. Merely putting it out there in case you had a title you really wanted to see as a 128px bitmap.

  • Screw temps on cheap irons. Do it by feel, touch solder wire to the tip and observe how it responds. Not melting well, increase temp. Melting too much and not adhering, lower temp. Don't overthink things or think there's a magical universal number.

  • Quote from nem: “Yeah, that is crazy cool. Well done, frank! (PS. I updated Wrestle War in post 271 Be sure to grab that) ” Okay updated to correct Wrestle War now. Not sure how I missed it, I did update Riot City from that same post just missed Wrestle War.

  • For those not familiar, on the System 16 A board a connector labelled as CN5 is present on the right hand side of the board. This is a convenient spot to access +5V, ground and reset from. Here's a pinout extracted from the service manual. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…269279b7c6e17b617ecb18e11 The only caveat is it's also utilised for analogue (trackball) controls however I'd suspect that very few people will be utilising these controls. So if you're not utilising trackball controls it's a gre…

  • No soldering required if you're happy to utilise CN5.

  • Still pending as I need to finalise the design before crunching numbers. At this stage I think the only changes I need to make is swapping the micro USB port over to USB C and I may look at placing the JST connector on the top side of the PCB or even changing it to a standard header pin. Trying to keep cost as low as possible, which is difficult with the AU dollar tanking against the US dollar, everything is costing me double what it usually does. I may look at bulk sending to Mitsu for US distr…

  • THS7374 is what you want as it's specifically designed to drive two outputs.

  • Agreed. I was silly to go with micro, it made sense in my head as I needed something compact with 5 pins. USB C is just as compact and is reversible which is convenient. Also a lot easier to buy USB C to USB C cables than it is to buy micro USB to micro USB cables. More pins too, I don't need them but handy for future expansion.

  • This is what I grabbed to test with. 1.8m USB C for $5 odd delivered. Perfect. amazon.com.au/gp/aw/d/B07VQNZZ…=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image