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    xodaraP - - Forum News


    It's going to be hard for a lot of people but we have to do what we can.


    xodaraP - - Forum News


    The issue is (Australia did the same as Sweden and we have a similar size population) is that people don't follow the rules. I hope it's different there, but as soon as they announced here they didn't want large gatherings and cancelled sports, concerts etc people FLOODED the beach. Groups of people (mainly backpackers, university students and younger people) are having coronavirus parties purely because it's against the rules set down to protect people. Remember: a group of people is only as sm…

  • No, you remove ALL wires, then update firmware then connect new wires. If you had the old reset wire connected during the flash you may have corrupted the bootloader and will need the discovery programmer to reload it


    xodaraP - - Forum News


    We might be but because they don't know they HAVE to over do it. Do you want to be the one responsible for saying "we're good to go now" and then another million people die because of your decision? They're erring on the side of caution, it hurts and it sucks but it's necessary. Yes people die from car accidents, suicide, murder etc but those are to an extent, preventable. A virus doesn't give 2 shits who you are or whether you're young, old, drunk, high or have cancer.

  • Bad connection between A and B boards, reseat and look for bent pins on the interconnects.

  • You need to remove pin 9 from the socket and connect the pin to J17 or the point on the board. It won't work properly otherwise.

  • The banks will be very reluctant to loan money. The more uncertainty and instability there is the less likely they are to loan money. Especially when it’s looking increasingly likely we’ll go into negative interest rates sooner rather than later.

  • Quote from XianXi: “Quote from xodaraP: “Nope that's exactly right. The only issue will be if you have one of the early devices that needs the bootloader updated with the discovery programmer. Make sure all wires are disconnected during firmware upgrade too. ” How do I tell if it's the "discovery" version? ” If it was purchased before a certain date (I want to say January 2016?) then it needs the bootloader updated with a hardware programmer

  • Nope that's exactly right. The only issue will be if you have one of the early devices that needs the bootloader updated with the discovery programmer. Make sure all wires are disconnected during firmware upgrade too.

  • Quote from arcadeqc: “Hey @Darksoft and all, I just got my CPS2 multi kit, very excited! Everything is working very well except that I am unable to close the lid with the LCD selector cable plugged in. Only can close it if it is disconnected, which is not very useful. I just got it of the latest 2020 batch from High Score Saves? Maybe the supplied cable is different height? It definitely hits against the top of the case ” Fold the cable over to the opposite side of the connector and also make su…

  • The eTim board looks great but I’m really disappointed he hasn’t included attenuation on the inputs and you’re expected to calculate this with horrible multi gang pots.

  • Quote from SVM: “ Quote from xodaraP: “The 5V is coming direct from the PSU ” Than it should be ok. What still bothers me is that your red and green signals are mixed together. But on 2 pcbs it is relatively impossible that 2 IC have an issue... ” This is the thing that’s really annoying me. I’ve checked every single connection for a bridge and it isn’t there. But if I connect either green or red by itself, I get yellow, so it’s bridged. I’m going to restart the whole circuit again next weekend.

  • Shouldn't it be 0.7v not 0.07v? I know there’s proper ways to do it but at least of I’m getting roughly what I’m expecting I know I’m on the right track. Your RGB lines are twice the voltage of mine so that explains why it’s dim. The 5V is coming direct from the PSU, I have a connector with 1 input and 4 outputs (1 going to power switch, one to board, one to video connector and one to LEDs) I'm not sure an alternative connection is going to be an improvement since it would have to come from the …

  • Quote from Nimmers: “*Looks sadly at my Sega 16 Tetris wishing it was a quarantine multi* ” A Tetris definitely has a much better life as a multi...

  • Wire colours for reference: Red - Red Green - Yellow Blue - Black Sync - White

  • You'll have to excuse my very bad reflow job on the 620ohm resistor and on the connections for inputs/outputs, I've been soldering and desoldering random wires to test stuff all day @Frank_fjs has also been helping and has made some suggestions but nothing has worked so far. I'll fix it once it's working properly and I permanently put everything in place.…111546afbcd5d8869947af5ec

  • Do you have your connections for RGB to the JAMMA pins or the resistors? And which side are you taking them from? The issue I seem to be having is red and green are mixing together somewhere. If I have red connected by itself or green connected by itself on both input and output side, I get the same colours, dim and yellow. I've metered out for shorts, beeped out the JAMMA edge to confirm nothing is connected incorrectly there, unless they're reversed on the board for some reason but even that d…

  • Ok, it doesn't matter in this case because I'm not getting sync from the RGB PCB. I have beeped out quite a lot of the circuit and it's working. 2 boards have the exact same issue so it isn't a build issue. All parts were ordered from Mouser including the 7374 so I don't believe it's a component issue.

  • Ok so I used another PCB and I'm getting the same issue. I took some measurements of voltages on a white screen so all colours are in use: Input: RGB: 2.068v Sync: 4.28v Output: RGB: 0.86v Sync: 0.07v Sync is definitely not making it through correctly. I have confirmed continuity on all components as well. The reason it works on the PVM is you have the option of internal sync. If I use sync from the board it doesn't work at all. Connecting it before the 75R will not help, I get a similar voltage…

  • Quote from SVM: “Quote from xodaraP: “I'm using a straight through cable which is what the AES uses. ” That's the way it's meant to be. Quote from xodaraP: “I picked up the sync signal before R13 and this works on my PVM but not on a standard TV, it is too weak. Colours are also very dim so all signals from this PCB are too weak. ” Strange... Could you upload some photos of your pcb, please? ” You say the way it is meant to be is using a straight through cable for the AES, but then you say other…