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  • Earth inquiry

    erzane - - General Arcade Tech Help

    Post

    Regarding my shema, I already have two earths: A. One coming from the AC. The wire's going to the wall (blue and brown is a part of the main wire, then yellow/green is earth), that I hooked to the side of the cab. B. Another one from the noise filter that I hooked to a screw that holds the Fuse not so far, but maybe is it more effective if I hook it to any metal part related to the cab since the wood is maybe canceling it (btw, I don't know if it's an earth or a gnd, I don't know the difference …

  • Thanks guys

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from suverman: “Make sure the tiny 10 inch tool you use has proper connection to the 18awg wire as well and not insulated. ” Yep it has. Btw I've mistaken because my tiny tool was 4'' only (10cm). But the job is done.

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Ok guys, so I'll do it like this. Btw, I had confirmation that a 18'' tube cannot be deadly dangerous, at most a hand flickering as I experimented before, so using a tiny 10'' tool can be enough for now since I already extracted the cap without any damage and I just have to put it back, also my monitor works fine and have no issues. But for next times when extracting the sucker again, I ordered a 20'' tool with croc clips to make things proper as Niko saids. For now, to resume: I'll do the follo…

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from nem: “Quote from erzane: “if the monitor is disconnected and the sucker already taken off, there isn't charge inside the tube anymore. ” This is wrong. The CRT has two conductive coatings on the inside and outside of the tube, and together they form, along with the glass, what is essentially a high voltage capacitor. However, glass isn't a perfect dielectric, so when you discharge it, it doesn't actually fully discharge. ” I see, so how should I proceed to put my sucker back now we kn…

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    >Niko: I used the past, it don't mean I don't consider your advise. I'd like to know the reason of a so big tool since until today (it's been two years now I handle that monitor and take the sucker off only by touching any metal part on the tube with my gloves and a tiny screwdriver, without any wire nor aligator hooked to it and to the frame), I never had any problem. Maybe my chassis does have an auto discharge process... Anyway that's only recently that I heard about that screwdriver trick (b…

  • Geometry on MS8-18

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Ok, thanks!

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    I see, so you have a very big screwdriver. Is it only the head or the whole size of the screwdriver which is important? Also, how to discharge the flyback? Before your precisions, I was planning to do the following (but seems my scredriver is too small...), so here are the steps I was planning to do to put the sucker cap back: DSCN9634.jpg DSCN9636.jpg DSCN9638.jpg DSCN9637.jpg DSCN9635.jpg

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Can I use a crossed small screwdriver or should I use a big flat one? Also, should I do this before disconnecting all wires or can I do it after (maybe a stupid question but I'd like to be clear on this)? DSCN9630.jpg DSCN9631.jpg

  • Discharging the tube

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    When discharging the tube, should I first : 1. disconnect DC, disconnect all wires linked to the chassis (neckboard wire, rotation VL connector, coil, video), then discharge the tube, then extract the sucker? 2. disconeect DC, first discharge the tube (screwdriver trick), extract the sucker, then disconnect all wires linked to the chassis? Also, when doing the screwdriver trick, should I insert the screwdriver under the sucker deep enough until I touch the metal pin of the hook? I heard about so…

  • Geometry on MS8-18

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Hi, I wonder how to fix the following. Thanks: DSCN9627.jpg

  • Is there sb on the monitor thread?

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Hi Nem! Issue resolved. The problem was about the rounded part of the path which lifted off due to heat I guess. That's why the PCB didn't recognized the pot since this later wasen't really soldered to the paths end. So I'd to do a bridge in two parts. Now all works fine. thumbnail-IMG-20200406-WA0009.jpg thumbnail-IMG-20200406-WA0011.jpg

  • Hi guys. I'd need the help of some monitor techs there since I did a remote for my geometry pots and my monitor isn't working. I remoted four pots (bright, h-phase, v-size, v-posi) of my former Nanao MS8-18B chassis. After turning it on, a red thin line appeared after a few seconds, becoming more red, then I shutted it down since I was afraid it can make smt bad. Here is what I've done: I desoldered the four pots and soldered instead four connectors. My remote was already made a few days ago wit…

  • Remote for H-Size on MS8-18FB

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Just added some precision pics. On the 3rd one, I kept the bridges. To me it's logic but I don't want to do a mistake. I also add the MS8 shema: 1-H-Size-Coil.jpg 2-DSCN9535.jpg 4-Another-example.jpg

  • Remote for H-Size on MS8-18FB

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Hi, I did a remote for the H-Size coil. The coil was connected by all their four feets, so I just did the same on a small pcb where I deported it. I didn't reproduced the bridges between A & B and C & D. What's your advise on this, should I add the two bridges? Btw, if I test it as is, any big trouble, heat, serious damages or unreversible issues? Thanks!! Sans-titre-1.jpg MS8-18-Sch-ma.png DSCN9530.jpg DSCN9531.jpg DSCN9532.jpg

  • Hi guys, I'd like to know if this shema is correct. Also, should I use 18awg, maybe 22awg is too thin? About the connector: what's happend if, when I turn-on the cab/monitor, the connectors are disconnect like in this shema? I know it do not have any sens to make this wiring and leave it disconnected, but I'd like to know what kind of effect it will occurs on resolution, also maybe it can do a short-circuit, or totaly safe? Thanks!!

  • neckboard swap

    erzane - - Monitor Help

    Post

    HI, I have two chassis: 1. Nanao MS8-18A with its original Nanao neckboard. 2. Nanao MS8-18FB with a Toei neckboard. There are two differences between the neckboards connectics on each chassis: - The Nanao neckboard does have an additional wire (G1) that the Toei neckboard don't have. - The MS8-18FB chassis connectors are linked togheter by a wire (8/4). I guess that link is for replace the missing G1... Can I swap the neckboards with that new wiring like on the 2nd shema? THANKS!! p.s. do I ris…

  • Ok, thanks anyway p.s. btw, I tested my volume issue with my old 1,5W TOCOS vol. pot, only 0,3W difference and all work fine. Now I can set the vol. from 0 to max without any probleme. For the moment, I didn't tested another 1,2W pot, maybe mine is broken, I don't know yet, but I'll soon, like this I'll be sure if this issue cames from an insufficient wattage. Edit: I tested my 1,2W pot with a single mono 8ohm 3W speaker and the issue still persists. That's the speaker I was using before and wit…

  • Ok, thanks for your advises. I recently openend another thread, pls could you take a look? Swaping Neckboard Thanks!

  • Swaping Neckboard

    erzane - - General Arcade Tech Help

    Post

    Thanks for your help !!