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  • Or send him a pcb, then he won’t be able to stop himself from figuring it out

  • Quote from twistedsymphony: “to me that sounds like way more than just probing for the pin out. lets make this easy. ” well I’m saying that’s his best path to a DIY solution, with the tools and knowledge at his disposal. you’re offering a DIWT (do it with twisted) step by step solution, i don’t think I’d bet against that!

  • The file you need is dependent on the version you want to run. I'm not sure why but the files seem to differ between the 4p and 2p romsets. There is also a difference between asia and everywhere else, but that makes sense since this is the audio cpu code.…drivers/simpsons.cpp#L393 The romset you're looking for has the filename here:…drivers/simpsons.cpp#L634 in the first column e.g. simpsons, simpsons4pe, simpsons2p etc. No matter the…

  • Simpsons PCB Missing eprom

    ekorz - - Other Hardware Support

    Post will burn and ship you any chip. the file itself is in mame and available across the web in pretty easy to find places. Some members might be able to burn them. Under different circumstances I could. Someone may reply. Also I think you mean 6G

  • Wow. That’s rough, the manual doesn’t address the mystery pcb or any of the pins on the main pcb. I do hope you get this working. Recently I converted a redemption game to jamma, but I had a manual complete with pinouts and a decent amount of experience at this stuff. Props to @rewrite and @twistedsymphony for leaning in, but I do have to think... Non jamma Redemption Separate mystery pcb Trackball io Unhelpful manual... I would definitely be trying to find a complete cab at this point... someho…

  • Quote from rewrite: “Using the right tool always helps!…f9rhdgvPrdEgaAsnBEALw_wcB If you're not careful with a flathead or something you can cut traces under the eproms trying to pry them up. That being said, being very careful I've used eyeglass screwdrivers in the past without an issue. You just need to go slow, lift only a tiny bit at a time and alternate sides, while being very mindful of where the tip likely is as you don't want to scrape the PCB under the epr…

  • @jassin000 give it the business!!

  • Got mine in yesterday (so about a month in transit to USA). I will admit I didn’t pay close attention to the dev thread, and when I was pinged to order my sentiment was more “oh that looks neat, I’ll read up on it when it gets here, I’ll buy to support the effort” than anything else. Well this was basically plug and play, and looks amazing. It’s really a must-have for this multi. Excellent work!

  • ST-V Stereo Audio PCB

    ekorz - - Sega ST-V


    Mine arrived, works great! Thanks again!

  • Quote from Horris: “I’ve never used twitter but this came up when I was googling for something the other day, so I created an account and following it, I now take it it’s not genuine then? Is there a genuine one I should be following? ” There isn’t an official Twitter for arcade projects. Individual members have twitter handles that they put in their profiles though, as well as some moderators. But as a forum, I’m curious what you would want/expect it to tweet about. Not to diminish them, but if…

  • @KalessinDB I have a hack with the red label, but mine has the 40 character roster. Can you snap some pics or video of your title screens and rosters? Curious what the difference is.

  • I usually just plug in a pcb and go to its test mode. That does mean you need to find the cab's test wiring and hook it up, or use a pcb with a test button on it, or jump the test to ground manually. But once I'm in test mode, yeah I just push the button and see what fires. You could tone each line with a multimeter (buy one anyway) but if they were grouped intelligently I'd expect you to be safe, as in no power/video/audio lines are being run into your control panel.

  • Kick Harness for HAS 3.2?

    ekorz - - Capcom's CPS2


    HAS uses a 6 pin JST-XH connector for the kicks. I’m pretty sure it’s been that way for all revisions. #26 here

  • @16bitgium those chips are for the jed files included in the first post. You do need to have them programmed. Other instructions may refer to them as GAL or PAL since on an original board it’s a PAL chip I think, and most people are used to using GAL16V8 chips as replacements. Nice find actually, I drive myself crazy sometimes trying to get a GAL to behave, as they are obsolete chips usually sourced from overseas. These are new and fast, and in stock (at mouser last time I checked). I bought lik…

  • When I saw connections to that pin I thought it was a factory error of some kind for sure. Like they expected it to ground or something. Anyway it sounds like we're saying we can rip off the Gunbird 2 components and just install the circuit the same as Strikers. I may just give that a try for fun since I have almost all the components needed already. Just have to decide to buy a YAC or see if I have one on a scrap board or something. Or just borrow one from a working Strikers for a little bit...

  • you should just get a vendor to burn the chip in that case.

  • Same chips, the program roms hold the region code. I’ve never swapped these specific ones myself, I’ve never had a reason to. Just to make sure, though, you need to make sure you are using appropriate replacements. what chips did you order? Are they the right voltage, 5v? Do they have the same pinout as the mask roms you’re going to pull, or are you going to have to make other modifications? I hope you have good flux and a steady hand! I’d certainly do ergheiz first, as a test run

  • If you’re gonna pull those, might as well dump them! I wonder what’s different on FTL3

  • There is only one revision for fighting layer that’s been dumped. FLT0/VER.A But the good news is you can change the Hit Color from green to red from the test mode Game Options sub-menu. In general, the main program roms decide the region, so you could identify which chips need changing by looking at the mame driver here. For example on Ergheiz you would change 2e and 2j