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  • X2 BSOD after splash

    snakeGrave - - Taito Type X

    Post

    Hi there I just acquired an X2. Here is a link to some images of the BSOD and replacement graphics card that are referenced in this post imgur.com/a/ywwljmi No HHD -7900 GS card -1 gig of ram -the case says it has a P4 cpu but I have not lifted up the heat sink yet to verify -looks to have the jamma labeled usb out and dip board -I have this running to a chewlix cab with a capcom io, the io is powered by some generic PSU in the chewlix -dip switches 1, 2, and 5 on. have toggled them and the resu…

  • Issues with spinner games

    snakeGrave - - Taito F3

    Post

    Right on that was it, thanks much @Rotanibor yeah Arkanoid was pretty rough just now when I tested it out. I'm pretty excited to give puchi carat a try later though

  • Issues with spinner games

    snakeGrave - - Taito F3

    Post

    Hi there I recently got the multi and the install went well but I am having some issues with games that from my understanding have the option to use the spinner controller. I have tried to run both arkanoid and puchi carat both with jumper j3 set for sensor, joystick, and left open. The switch test screen is shown in the attachment. This screen is the same no matter the jumper config. This is with the sticks in the neutral position. the P1 sensor does not respond to joystick movement at all and …

  • Pretty rad, say I wanted to modify this to implement is a Vs type kitt the video from this buffer could be piped right into another cab's wiring harness? Would AC or DC coupling be preferred?

  • Universal JAMMA versus kit

    snakeGrave - - Project Showcase

    Post

    I'd be in for another, so two total, if the option is there

  • Universal JAMMA versus kit

    snakeGrave - - Project Showcase

    Post

    Can I get on the list for one as well please?!

  • If I had to guess I'd say they were 10 mm in length or so. The shorter the better IMO because I've ended up snapping the screw posts in some of these as I've tightened the screws down. In the last set I printed I'm holding the halves together with tape because of this. The threaded holes in this print are a bit too small and I should probably redo them.

  • can I also get on the list please?

  • Oh yeah I wanted to go back through the NVS and try to undo this hackjob. I then noticed that I was getting a buzzing from my speakers. Was kind of peculiar because the MVS single slot board induced no buzz/hum but every other jamma board I've tried in my astro has this buzzing if audio is pulled from the jamma edge. Audio is all good when stereo is input though. I thought maybe the speakers were hacked and wired in parallel at first but have verified they are wired in an 8ohm config

  • I've been thinking about rewiring my hacked up NVS since the previous owner bypassed the audio amp altogether to wire it for MVS. Is the proper pin to input audio signal from the jamma edge on this PSU/amp through the same connector that the service and test buttons are on, through the 'AF+' and 'AF-' pins? Or should I jump 'L+' to 'R-' on the 4pin audio input connector and wire the mono audio output 'speaker+' to 'R+' and 'speaker-' to 'L-'?

  • with an 80% fill factor the large pieces are about 100 grams a each. The small spacer is around 6 grams. 1 kg of PLA filament is $30-$40?

  • Quote from Aurich: “Quote from snakeGrave: “not really sure of the cost for the plastic since I just have unfettered access to these printer in a makerspace ” What do they weigh? Cost is easy to calculate off weight. 1kg PLA spool is around $20 give or take, cheaper if you cheap out, more if you get quality. IME you get what you pay for. ” I'll throw these on a postage scale and let you guys know

  • the bottom and top took about 9 hours a piece, not really sure of the cost for the plastic since I just have unfettered access to these printer in a makerspace

  • I saw a really nice solution to housing Fluffy's boards in another thread maybe we can start consolidating solutions here? I've included one solution I've been working on, it does require some lengthy prints. I used an ultimaker 3 that I have access to for making my parts. This case is printed in 3 parts and I tried to mimic the stock PGM shell as much as possible. In the screw posts I tapped them for m3 threads after printing. I probably won't make any more changes to the files since I screwed …

  • I was thinking about making some bumper type holders that would print easier/faster and make inserting the boards the wrong way impossible. Could maybe modify my parts to realize something like that if these work

  • Working on an stl for 3d printing shells for these boards. Need to make some revisions and still print the other half but I’ll share the files when I know I’ve got something that’ll work. Bottom half works ok aside from the socketed Roms bumping that oval

  • try him on twitter @KaPH33n twitter.com/majorsfool

  • Not my dip switches, I think it's just my PGM has an extremely finicky cart slot.

  • I'm pretty confident it was the state of my PGM, DIP 4 is indeed for freeplay but seems to have no effect when running this particular game. I'll go back and flip the switches a couple times when I get home and see if I can reproduce my former audio issues. I played through this game last night though and everything checked out... dip switches were on (down) at that time

  • 1)Pulled U8 and left U9 in and there was no noticeable difference in audio, music was still rad and voices/some effects remained garbled. 2)pulled U9 as well as U9 and audio was mostly just fart like noises. No solid music or effects really 3) I then put the old U8 into the U9 position while leaving the U8 position unpopulated: same result as in situation 1, this seems to rule out that I have a bad LS74257 in U8 or U9 positions? 4) U8 and U9 populated with switched chips from my starting point: …