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  • My buddy sent Sharper Image a 2930. They couldn't fix it and sent it back. It's with PNL now. Personally, I haven't sent off a chassis for repair in a long time. Been getting better at fixing them. But here is a tip if you guys ever send out your chassis for repair: buy a grease pen from Staples (the kind taggers use) and mark every single component before sending it out so you know which ones were replaced. Also, flip the chassis over and see if they left flux residue on the components undernea…

  • Quote from opt2not: “48 spots on the waitlist to go for me...i'm all here like: giphy.gif ” Your wife must allow you to get away with murder/cheating.

  • Never heard of that. I had mine sitting in the back yard in Central Valley California heat for about 2 years. ST-V cab was no worse for wear.

  • Apex tubes work afterall. Threw an MS2933 chassis and yoke on the Apex tube and it works. Didn't have the yoke lined up perfectly. Didn't dial in purity with the rings. I supppose the 29E31S chassis is faulty or it doesn't like the tube. But, suitable donor is now found. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…2600becbad1f430a73506d63d

  • smarty Martin says hi.

    acblunden2 - - Introduce Yourself!

    Post

    Welcome aboard!

  • Quote from Segasonicfan: “Interesting, I wonder if the low impedance input on PFX is any less fussy... ” It is the same I believe. I remember a post where @radiantsvgun reported even with the JAMMAfier and Tri-sync Helper, he couldn't get the Taito F3 to work with the Sanwa PFX. JAMMAfier of course connects through VGA on the low impedence connection. Let me dig up that post. EDIT: Name for JVS2JAMMA board FYI, the image with the F3 and PFX directly connected to the high impedence connection pro…

  • I am testing through the high impedence connection on the PFX chassis. I am running JAMMA video right to that connection via wires direct from the PCB. I don't use a JVS-to-JAMMA adapter (like JAMMAfier) which runs JAMMA video through VGA to the low impedence connection. I can send you a Taito F3 if need be. I'd need it back however. Tests with other PCB's are good so far, but none of those other PCB's are known to have sync issues with the PFX. Will test with other monitors once I have my edge …

  • Definitely interested in MJ SPG-like functionality in in SCP. In speaking with a group of local arcade enthusiasts/experts about my early results, they mentioned SCP enabling the F3 to work with the PFX is a litmus test.

  • Yoke was swapped. Don't know if my buddy checked the TV prior to the surgery. No rejuventator. I have the same tube and will give it antoher go on Wednesday.

  • Quote from DJLC: “I just left a Facebook group that's about modding Arcade 1Ups and I have never seen a more narcissistic and horrible community. I just love the arcade-projects.com community because we generally have none of that... ” Sorry, I had to fix your post buddy. The arcade community in general has a lot of malcontents. But, yeah, this place is a haven; Darksoft, Mitsurugi-w run a tight ship. Welcome aboard!

  • Interesting. So perhaps the coloration issue was with the 29E31S itself? Would throwing the MS2933 on the same tube as a sanity check produce the desired result?

  • I'll check mine again in a few. If it is like yours, the tube gets tossed, and the search continues.

  • You can also send in your MS2931 to PNL Video or Sharper Image for repair and save some trouble. Screen curve on the Blast City tube and the MS9 are different aren't they, so fitment may be an issue once you get to that bridge. Here is a neumatic tip for installing Nanao yoke connectors in the correct orientation that I have taught myself: B = Left. Which means, if looking at the chassis from behind, flyback nearest to you, the color wire that starts with a "B" should be on the left position. So…

  • On a side note, as I was dumping unqualified donor candidates off at the recycle center this morning, there was a Nice 27" Sharp sitting there just asking to have its organs harvested (if possible) and repurposed. So I snapped it up and will oblige.

  • Here is the pin configuration on the neck. At about 8 o'clock, you can see there is a spot for a 10th pin, but it is missing. I checked the neckboard to see if it got pulled off, but it is not there. Still possible it fell off during the rest of disassembly. I'll ask my buddy if his is missing in the same spot and to check at his office if the pin is stuck to his neckboard. If so, I do have some conductive epoxy and can glue it back on. Not the first time I've had to do that. Also, can sack a pi…

  • Yeah. Same pin configuration. But it is short one pin. Looking at the neck, there is a position for another pin, but it is not there. Possible the pin slipped out? I checked the Apex tube I have at my house, same thing. Missing the 10 pin. I'll take a snap of it.

  • Looks like I made a big blunder. These Apex TV's won't work at all. They are 9-pin, not the needed 10-pin. That explains the red screen coloration. The search continues.

  • Looks like it is success. We forgot to install the degauss coil, so we couldn't demag it. But from what was seen, there was a nice sharp image. Proof of concept is good. These tubes work. Now to put it in the Blast and do all the fine tuning. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…2600becbad1f430a73506d63d

  • Small hiccup with fitment. Standard tube to frame mounting didn't work. Tube is too deep. Thankfully, tube was too deep by just the thickness of the frame ear mounts. Reverse mounting the tube to the frame is proof of perfect tube fitment. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…2600becbad1f430a73506d63d Fits bezel perfectly as shown! arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…2600becbad1f430a73506d63d Here is the tube mounted to the backside of the frame. See the the dogears on the tube? Wouldn't be visible if it w…

  • The surgery is about to begin! Clockwise from top left: 1. Net City to be used for this test because a Blast City is too darned hard to work with 2. The potentially dead Blast City tube remarked upon in the OP 3. And the Apex donor TV1. Curvature has been tested on the tube with the bezel laid on top of it already 2. Fitment tested first 3. No idea about the heater since it isn't posted on atomized.tubular.org Drum roll please......... arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…2600becbad1f430a73506d63d