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  • The problem with the Reco is that for tournament play you can't quickly switch between layouts like with a physical switch. There's some discussion on rotary switches on ArcadeOtaku: forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=33916 Doesn't look too difficult to make if you just need two or three layouts.

  • Sega Race TV cabinet, no image

    nem - - Sega Lindbergh

    Post

    That's true about the motherboard posting and it beeping with faulty RAM. Which is why you should definitely try a different PSU. It's just a standard ATX connector on the Lindbergh. You don't have to use the other, smaller connector at all. Voltages don't always tell the truth with PSUs.

  • Sega Race TV cabinet, no image

    nem - - Sega Lindbergh

    Post

    Did you even try reseating the RAM and a different PSU?

  • Sega Transformers DLX

    nem - - Sega Hardware Support

    Post

    A 12mm steel drill bit is the one I go for. It eats into the lock like butter, pops out the cam at the back, and leaves the cylinder in place.

  • sanwa 29e31s

    nem - - Monitor Help

    Post

    grantspain is here as @gunblade.

  • Faulty Type X 2 - Need Advice!!

    nem - - Taito Type X

    Post

    Well done on getting it to a state that you can actually use it! Most people would have just binned the board, so good job!

  • Polo 25" sync?

    nem - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Yeah, you just need to narrow down your options. Disconnecting the video input connecter is one, removing the extension between the remote is another. Should be an easy fix once you find your problem area.

  • I have never seen a motherboard with intact tabs.

  • Chabudai / TTX2 Security Dongle Help

    nem - - Taito Type X

    Post

    Most likely the key is corrupt. It happens. Anyway, you just need a decrypted game image and then you can leave the key unplugged. AndyGeezer can certainly do it if you pay him. There's someone else on here who will do it for, *cough*, beer.

  • LOL Links to old forum nicks still work, like this @DecepticonZero (although you can't tag them easily anymore). If you click on a member name it will tell you who that person previously was known as too. Smart stuff.

  • sanwa 29e31s

    nem - - Monitor Help

    Post

    It's capacitor related. Maybe someone knows which one(s) exactly. I just replaced all of them on several chassis, but there's like 60+ caps / board, so it's a few hours of work. The two caps that were in the worst state on almost of the boards were the two 33uF 160V caps, between the flyback and the filter cap. They were domed and leaking.

  • Polo 25" sync?

    nem - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Could be a bad solder joint or a loose connector. Disconnect the video input connecter, turn the cab on, turn up brightness so you have a visible raster on screen and see if it's still jumping about.

  • Sega Race TV cabinet, no image

    nem - - Sega Lindbergh

    Post

    You can place the GPU on a normal computer and see if it works, yes. And if it does work, try reseating the memory sticks, and then try connecting a PC PSU to it.

  • Sega Race TV cabinet, no image

    nem - - Sega Lindbergh

    Post

    CRT screen? Does the monitor actually turn on? Do you feel static on the surface of the screen? If you're not getting sound either and the start button on the dash isn't lighting up, it's likely that the game isn't even booting. How did you test the PSU? Was it connected to the board when you measured voltages? I suspect it's the PSU. You can try swapping in a PC ATX power supply and see what happens.

  • Quote from acblunden2: “You sure? We are talking about earth ground here, not DC ground. In the event of a surge, if the metal shell is the ground and the player is touching the metal shell which will be the case in the playing position, wouldn't the player be in for a shock? ” Absolutely. You want the metal shell at ground potential. Anything else and you're asking to be shocked. If there was a short you would probably feel a jolt, but a grounded shell is the shortest path for electricity to ge…

  • Quote from ReplicaX: “You are basically running a HOT Chassis. The tube and frame will have 120v through it. ” Yes, and that's why it's inside an enclosure (the cab) where little hands can't reach it. Quote from ReplicaX: “With a Hot chassis, you have the potential to accidentally send 120v through your RGB-Sync cable and destroy your game pcb. ” Sure, electricity will always find the shortest path to ground. If your DC ground is connected to Earth ground I can see how this could happen. Mine is…

  • Quote from acblunden2: “Not all. Net City's and New Net City's are grounded.The monitors are mounted to metal frames and the metal frame is grounded. ” Except it's not. The tube is grounded to the metal frame, but the frame isn't grounded to the cab. The monitor frame sits on plastic spacers that isolate it from the rest of the cab. There is no extra ground wire. The stock PSUs used in Sega cabs don't connect DC ground to Earth either (otherwise you would have a ground connection from video grou…

  • Quote from rewrite: “But monitors that require an ISO transformer (like this era WG's) need to be grounded better/differently/I don't know what term to use here. And that the frame serves this purpose in some cases. ” I have only two cabs that have monitors that need isolating transformers, both of them K7000s. I've left both ungrounded. However, this said, they're both wooden cabinets, ie. non-conductive. If they were in metal cabs, I would probably fashion some plastic standoffs or spacers. Fr…

  • Quote from acblunden2: “The proposition of playing on a machine that is not properly grouned scares the heck out of me considering the monitor is an extremely powerful capacitor. Lack of a properly grounded monitor, even if it seemingly runs fine without proper grounding isn't wise. Electricity in a shorted scenario will simply flow through the path of least resistance. Without proper grounding, that path can be you, the player. Or some small child that might be button mashing my cab, which is a…

  • Adding -5V to Blast City?

    nem - - Other Sega Hardware

    Post

    500mA is absolutely fine.