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  • My pcb has had this fault for years now. Everything else, to the best of my knowledge, is fine. On a blank / black screen, the text bleeds to the top of the screen. It’s only visible on level transitions and, boot and rizing splash screen. Has anyone else encountered this issue? Voltages are fine, tested on multiple monitors too. It’s more obvious on some, but it’s always there. (also posted at AO)

  • They are in and out of stock on amazon.co.uk. With “krikzz” as the seller

  • Have you tried moving the position of the picture in the test mode of the PCB down a few lines?

  • I took your advice. I’ve bought the monitors now I need some time Have you used drop in replacement led strips or is there some modification needed? I really appreciate you sharing the info here. It’s saved me a lot of time.

  • Quote from nem: “Looks like @ArcadeMachinist snipped the wires in half and soldered a longer ribbon cable in between ” That’s what I was hoping for. I can’t be arsed soldering anything to the monitors motherboard

  • Great job and very useful post. I’ve got a Lindy on the way and even if the monitors are ok, I can see me doing this right away. Can I ask, How did you extend the remote? Is there enough ribbon cable, or whatever it is, internally to snip and add the desired length in between to extend?

  • MS9 vs Toshiba for low res

    markedkiller78 - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Some people like 15k on an LCD It’s subjective, but IMO, if you’re comparing a properly calibrated, good strong tube and chassis, then an MS8/MS9 will be better. The tosh PF is very sharp. Depending on your taste, that’s either a good or a bad thing. The 15k picture on a Nanao MS29-30/31, tosh PF or tosh PB7534 (windy 2) are all very good. If you can find a cabinet with a really nice monitor, then any of them will look great.

  • InfiniKey-CPS2

    markedkiller78 - - Temple of the Undamned

    Post

    Quote from jassin000: “Quote from mmartinezespichan: “the power was at 5,07 volts I set to 5 volts ” I keep my supergun at 5.08v, CPS2 is fine with less but some other PCBs need a little extra.Values below 5.10v should be perfectly safe/well within tolerance. ” There can be only one 5.00V

  • Toshiba PF D29C051 chassis

    markedkiller78 - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from nem: “@markedkiller78, @acblunden2, see here: Yoke and tube specs for monitors I don't see any issue with replacing a Sanwa chassis with a Tosh or vice versa. ” Excellent work nem. Many thanks

  • That looks brilliant! I’ll buy one when your ready

  • I need one when you restock

  • Nice cab and game I did not know you could attach normal pcb feet to the CD drive! I know what I’ll be doing this weekend

  • Toshiba PF D29C051 chassis

    markedkiller78 - - Monitor Help

    Post

    Quote from nem: “I don't know for sure, but that's what I expect. I have Sanwa PFXs on the way so I can measure both yokes. Should be here in three weeks. ” Hi Nem, I’m of the same thinking. If you could post your findings, it would be really useful as PFX tubes are more common in the U.K. than tosh PF in my experience. Well, the U.K. made / put together cabs any way

  • I had no idea there was an auto switching MS9 I think there are arguments for each, 15k for the cave ports, 31k for the HD cave ports, 24k as a half way house between the two & 720p covers everything like AK shin and Contra hard corps rising. Pink sweets and MMP look like ass in 31k. The good thing is, you can pretty much run a 360 in any cab. I prefer 15k, but that’s personal preference. It’s certainly much easier feeding a cab 480p and a lot of tri-syncs are auto switching, so an NNC is a grea…

  • Emphatic posted a great write up years ago: shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=33659 The old post had some great shots of death smiles on xbox360 in 15k and 24k and the latter was much sharper, but still had scan lines on an MS9. The issue, is changing games, nearly every jamma pcb is 15k, so unless you dedicate the cab to x360, it’s much simpler setting it to output 15k

  • Quote from MoppelTheWhale: “perhaps the best thread to ask Does somebody of the PAL crowd know how bad the PAL versions of R-Type Delta and R-Type Final are? ” PAL Rtype Final has a 60hz mode

  • I only know of the 6 button and 3/4 player pin outs: wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/CPS1,_CPS2_%26_CPS3_Connectors Are there any others?

  • My Egret 2 Resto

    markedkiller78 - - Project Showcase

    Post

    It’s much easier to pull the tube and ply in one go.

  • From that post I linked to; “He also gave me the advice to loop pins 1 & 3 seeing as it's not in a Sega cabinet. Otherwise, the game boots, I/O shows a fine, but none of the controls work.“ On the 60 pin header pin 1 (EXV+) pin 3 (+5v) I’m not saying that is your issue, but it’s i the first thing I thought of.

  • Is this the issue? You need to loop pins 1 + 3 apparently if it’s not in a Sega cab. forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopi…t=144&start=28720#p508775