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  • Quote from kgctim: “I'm a military member living in Germany right now. ” maybe change your location to Germany (for at least the time you're stationed there). We have a few German members here who I'm sure could help.

  • Quote from Euphoria: “Ultra rare Very rare Crazy rare Extremely rare Oh and very very / ultra ultra rare ? ” There is no standard definition; it's all irrelevant since it's subject to opinion and context. honestly you might as well ignore the word altogether.

  • Quote from rewrite: “If I remember the story correctly it took them 2 PCB's to get one up and running. ” that's what I remember hearing as well.

  • Most of us on this forum do our own conversions. If you don't have a programmer or the interest in doing it yourself then you'd probably just want to find someone local to you so you're not shipping your board all over the place. Where in the USA are you?

  • Quote from gamemaster14: “Any clue how many Primal Rage II boards are known to exist? ” Atari Scott on KLOV has 7 them in various states (some incomplete boards) atarigames.com/pr26boards.jpg. You can see there are differences in the boards since they're all prototypes in various stages. There are only 6 in the picture because his 7th is in a dedicated cab that he brings to CAX. Doc Mac at Galloping Ghost has at least 1 (I think maybe 2). I believe their cab is a reproduction. Shou has at least …

  • That ghosting you're getting is a classic analog video interference issue. back before HDMI I would get that kind of effect on my projector when using shitty cables or shitty video switches. You need to make sure the video ground on your JAMMA edge is not connected to the same ground as the power input. Make sure you're using good gauge wire for your video wires (22awg or larger). and make sure that the video wires are NOT run near the power wires. Also get rid of all those shitty butt-connector…

  • Quote from Euphoria: “I really cannot think how that is possible. ” Primal Rage 2 Used the Sony ZN hardware (PS1 based) with a unique Sub-board. G-Net also uses the Sony ZN hardware so the main board of a GNet is already the same as what is used on the real Primal Rage II PCBs. System 246 is PS2 based... completely different platform.

  • Quote from obcd: “The problem with using a standard cable is the fact that the wires are usually very thin. ” I mean there's no definition of wire gauge in a "standard cable" A lot of Micro USB cables are available with decent gauge wire since most people use them to charge their phones. As long as you keep that in mine when choosing a cable for this you're fine. I use these: amazon.com/Tronsmart-Durable-C…&keywords=20awg+micro+usb which have a 20awg internal wire, which is thick enough that the…

  • Quote from MoppelTheWhale: “any tips on what to replace? ” Obviously every PSU is different, with something like this where it was a fully working PSU that popped, I'd start by opening it up and checking for burn marks or blown components/blown traces, check any internal fuses. For older PSUs that simply don't hold voltage well or otherwise "died of natural causes" start with a cap kit, if it has a fan I usually like to replace the fan too if it's noisy or really grungy. after that check the dio…

  • could be a good learning opportunity, open up the PSU and see if you can fix it.

  • Quote from deibit: “I would just source another card and reflash it.. ” I'm seeing these for about $30 shipped on eBay currently, not super expensive but also no so cheap that I want to buy a bunch of them. This is actually the second one I've bought since the first one displayed bad pixels all over the screen. I suppose I could remove the chip from that and install it on the bricked card to see if that revives it. I did also order the programmer cable that atrfate posted, but coming from China …

  • Same, we all make mistakes. I've let the black magic smoke out of lots of electronics over the years. It's only failure if you don't learn from it. I try to get in the habit of triple checking all of my wiring: 1. Plan out where everything goes before you start, write or type a list of all the connections. 2. Verify each connection is made correctly as you make it. 3. before you apply power re-check every every connection again to make sure everything is in the right place. In the case of your P…

  • I managed to get my hands on another PC with on-board graphics to try recovering this card. this PC I was able to boot with the card installed, it wont output any video from the card but will output from the on-board graphics. the card is listed when I use the --list command but when I try to flash it with the firmware backup (or reflash the tx2 firmware) I get "ERROR: Supported EEPROM not found".

  • well, the fuse is there for over draw protection; to keep your house from burning down, not to protect your electronics. By running -5 to the +5 on your items it was the same as hooking up ground and +5 backwards, and if all your electronics popped before drawing too much it's entirely possible that your PSU is still working despite frying everything you hooked it up to.

  • Quote from PascalP: “It reboots, show a check cart connector and press service to exit message, if I press service now, it boots to the ST-V post screen as if no cart is installed ” I've run into this before after adding/swapping games on the card without reformatting. I know you've already tried reformatting but it coudn't hurt to try another card.

  • Quote from sammargh: “you need to grab a build of Mame built for OSX ” right but which build... it needs to be the correct version for the CHDs being used.

  • I'll have to try that on mine when I get home tonight then we can ID which version of MAME the GNET CHD are based on.

  • that looks like it has the correct GPU and Audio and JVS cards: index.php I honestly don't know much about the requirements in a legit VF5 setup, so I can't tell you if it will run without a card reader or without the main server. Maybe someone else who has bought a legit VF5 could answer that. I can tell you that a unit that matches the image above will be suitable for installing a multi. They're very easy to install you simply replace the CF card, Hard Drive and security chip and then move a j…

  • I believe the "Live" version is just for the "Live Monitor" which shows a spectator view of the fight. I don't know the hardware specs on this but it may be missing the JVS card since it should be a display only unit without any controls. "Terminal" is for the kiosk where you can manage your player card, again I don't know the specs on these but it may have lower specced hardware since I don't believe it shows any game graphics. Neither one of these will likely come with the playable VF5 game, b…

  • Quote from Macone: “I inadvertently hooked up the +5v jamma lead to the -5v contact on my power supply. ” what was the JAMMA edge plugged into? I wouldn't be so worried about killing the PSU as I would be about killing whatever was plugged into your JAMMA harness.