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  • Quote from acblunden2: “@Frank_fjs, I'm still up for designing a Test Bench fork. Can you add me to the EasyEDA Project (acblunden2@gmail.com). ” I'll create a blank project tonight and we'll get cracking.

  • ATX bench PSU

    Frank_fjs - - Project Showcase

    Post

    I'm referring to the Molex 4 pin connector, the 8981 or whatever it is. It has 1 x +5V, 1 x +12V and 2 x ground wires and the connector itself is rated at a much lower amperage as it's only designed to run a hard drive.

  • Rev 1.2 standard edition PCB arrived today, put it together just now, works very well. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…f029f1f0fd41068518b42615b Will be doing a minor update to both PCBs very soon, just minor tweaks.

  • ATX bench PSU

    Frank_fjs - - Project Showcase

    Post

    Using the 4 pin molex isn't any better. They're designed to carry 2.5 amps, no more. You need to utilise the 20/24 pin ATX connector. It has appropriate gauged wire and a connector that can handle the current.

  • ATX bench PSU

    Frank_fjs - - Project Showcase

    Post

    That's your problem. They're hard drive power ports, they don't put out full amperage.

  • Happy to recap for you Mr Sheep. No charge as long as I can play it for a day or two.

  • I added a proper bill of materials in PDF form, easier to read than the table on these forums. Check main post for download links. Also added the BOM PDF files to the download zip. I've got the latest edition PCB's in fabrication, should have them in a week or so. Will be selling off some excess as I need to start paying for some of the R&D that went into this.

  • They're supposed to be like that, they kind of 'snap' in on account of the bend in each leg. It provides support and stability to the switch. Also means they can be used in breadboards without soldering. Line up each leg with each hole properly and press down, simple.

  • It's not tight (TWSS). I assure you they will fit perfectly. All footprints are to spec as per datasheets. I've put these together and have verified fitment, the only connector that's slightly off is the 3.5mm audio connector but it still fits fine with a bit of maneuvering. This has since been rectified in the latest editions. You don't want over-sized holes with loose fitting components, they'll fall out when you flip the board to solder. Hint: With the cut tape parts, as the name suggests, us…

  • Dry fit of digikey parts in standard edition, the PCB footrprint is perfect and I chose the components accordingly. Resistors are fine too as are all connectors. This was all verified early on. If they don't fit, you're doing something wrong (that's what she said) arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…f029f1f0fd41068518b42615b

  • Quote from acblunden2: “@Frank_fjs, v1.1 PCB's arrived today. Some feedback: - Solder holes appear to be very small for some components. Probably will run into issues when I assemble this when the Digikey parts arrive (a la 1st order with Sync Pulse Generator). Will let you know, but these components look to be impacted - Mini DIN 8 - Caps - Resistors - DPDT switch is now listed in the parts list for the Standard version. Is that a mistake? ” The holes are the perfect size, as per datasheets and…

  • I didn't get anything with my order re key writing, if you're referring to the wires and connector.

  • Cleaned up and updated the main post a little bit regarding parts. Added more manufacturers part numbers and added some cheaper alternatives for the DIN 8 and DB15's, as well as an alternate voltmeter (different brand, available in a variety of colours).

  • ADVANCED updated to V1.2c - added provisions for a voltmeter. Voltmeter part is listed in supplementary parts. STANDARD remains unchanged and is still on V1.2b.

  • I squeezed a voltmeter into the advanced edition, will update later today.

  • Re the 330uF caps, you can still add them to your cart via the manual entry option. View your cart, copy / paste the digi-key part # into the part number field and it will add it to your cart. Have corrected the digi-key links for the SMD stuff so you're not paying reeling fees and also changed the test / service switches from a 4.3mm high actuator to a 5mm high actuator.

  • Quote from darkforce256: “Any idea why I cant add the 330 uf 10v caps on digikey? It says over 6k in stock but no add to cart button. ” If you scroll down there's a link to a direct substitute, same cap just 16V instead of 10V which won't matter at all. Also, I just realised why my order was so expensive re the smd stuff. I ordered reels which attracts a $7 US reel fee! I will update the links to cut tape which is A LOT cheaper.

  • Dry test fit of digikey parts: arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…f029f1f0fd41068518b42615b

  • Digi-Key parts arrived late last night. Test fitted all parts, all good. Man that Sullins edge connector is chunky, seems of very high quality. Probably overkill for a supergun. Re the test / service buttons, it's personal preference but some may want to order buttons with a higher switch height. Re the 3.5mm audio connector. It fits with slight encouragement. Reason for it not fitting perfectly is I designed the PCB to suit a connector that I like using, but can't seem to find from the major el…

  • Re components, you don't need to rigidly follow the digi-key links. Feel free to use any brand you wish, from any supplier. Re the voltmeter, I can't find a way of making it happen without comprising the PCB. One could just solder it to the jamma pins and attach to the jamma edge.