Search Results

Search results 1-20 of 128.

This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.

  • 42PP0606. I don't know if the RT-125A has the same problem. Here you can find more information about the recap I did: badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=885680. If the caps from the RT-125A are Rubycon I wouldn't replace them, it's a top quality brand along with Panasonic (Matsushita), Chemi-con and Nichicon. Please take into account that manipulating a PSU can be lethal (even with the power supply unplugged) due to the charge of the big capacitors.

  • Bad Jamma edge?

    rsignal - - General Arcade Tech Help

    Post

    It should be non conductive. I use this one: chemtronics.com/circuitworks-overcoat-pens There are other conformal coatings, dunno if acrylic is the best one for this application: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conformal_coating#Acrylic

  • You can put a parallel load in +5V line with a cement resistor calculating the value to draw ~1.5-2A and using a good wattage margin, anyway I think the 42PP0606 is better. The RT-125A produces a wavy noise in some games, I've read that connecting FG and COM fixes the issue but I'm not sure if this is advisable (seen here). With the 42PP0606 I've not experienced this problem, and there is continuity between these terminals. Also, the 42PP0606 has less ripple (50mVpp vs 80mVpp) and features soft …

  • I confirm the high pitched noise using the RT-125A happens with MV1B, MV1C and even MV1FZS (not so audible). It's due to low current draw from the arcade board and it has nothing to do with the Minigun. I currently use the 42PP0606 (MWP-606) with these boards, this one apparently works fine, no annoying noise or problems so far.

  • Bad Jamma edge?

    rsignal - - General Arcade Tech Help

    Post

    Not sure if this is the best advice but what I'd do is first remove the excess solder in the pads, then remove all the corrosion using a fibreglass pencil (be careful to not breath the dust!), clean with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and apply deoxit in the metallic pads and acrylic overcoat pen to fix the damaged solder mask.

  • Hello, I'm working on a new setup and I'd like to know if someone can recommend me a reliable and accurate three gang pot for the R,G,B video signals. I've found P083N-071S1CBR1K at Mouser, with a Gang Error of maximum +/-3 dB (-40dB to 0dB). I'm not sure if this is good enough to get accurate colors, or if there are better alternatives. Datasheet: mouser.es/datasheet/2/414/P08-1545446.pdf I got a reply from Tim Worthington and these pots are not worth it since +/-3 dB Gang Error means about +/-…

  • MiniDIN output is only CSYNC (combined HSYNC+VSYNC).

  • Could you recommend a seller for the Saturn female connectors? the ones I bought did not fit well and I bent the pins

  • I use a IWS-2412 (20€) and it does the job. Not sure if IWS-2820 is better since I use the smallest "teeth" to crimp the Mini Fit Jr.

  • That's great. Once I've learned to properly crimp the Mini Fit Jr terminals it's working perfect for me with the six 18 AWG cables. It's very comfortable to use and it works fine. It's nice to know it allows more amperage too. By the way, the fork terminals listed in the BOM aren't perfect for the MWP-606 screws. I bought other ones from a local store that fit really well with this PSU, I can take measures if you are interested. A word of caution: If you connect the joystick using a female DB15 …

  • I've only tested the one in the photo from my previous post (Molex 35318-0620) so I can't compare. This one works for me, will test the other and report back when the 1.5 advanced pcbs arrive. I'll get some Sullins jamma connectors in my next order if they are available, thanks for the suggestion. Update: Finally I reduced the voltage drop using 6x 7 inches 18AWG cables. 16 AWG cables are too thick for these Molex connectors, these ones work fine if you keep them short enough.

  • I have just assembled this Minigun 1.1 Advanced. The PCB comes from JLCPCB, it fits perfectly with the KEL connector. This unit will be used with speakers so I've not soldered the audio parts. I'll connect audio to ground under the minidin connector. This minidin 8 connector feels way better than the chinese connectors I linked before, so I recommend sticking to the ones recommended by Frank. I've bought a EDAC key and it works fine, but the hirose feels more solid and it sticks in place way bet…

  • It looks great. I'm waiting for 1.5 Advanced pcbs but it's really nice to see new improvements and tweaks in this project. Have you considered joining both +5V traces from the power supply connector? that's a minor modification that would reduce the possible voltage drop for larger boards.

  • Quote from Frank_fjs: “No damage re mono / stereo setting but it will sound wrong (out of phase) with it set to stereo on a mono board. Really the only board stereo applies to is the single slot MVS boards which support stereo over jamma, and have a switch themselves to alternate between mono / stereo (on the MVS PCB). ” MVS 4 slots and 2 slots also output stereo. In this case, no switch to select between mono/stereo like in the MV1F.

  • I've used one of these connectors, they fit perfectly with 1.1 ADV and feel solid although I've not tested them properly until I get the male connector: ebay.es/itm/5-piezas-reemplaza…-JCP-montado/153043703939 I think the same connectors are cheaper in bigger quantities at Aliexpress. If I wrongly connect the supergun set to Stereo with a Mono board is it possible to damage the board?

  • Thanks for the information acblunden2, I'm waiting for the components to assemble it. Maybe using a 10k linear pot can be of help to find the best value for your monitor? I'm not sure if this is a good idea or you may damage something.

  • 42PP0606 is the same model as MWP-606, it looks authentic but I'd order it from an official Suzo distributor to be fully sure: suzohapp.com/ I bought my first one from the link posted by RGB (arcadeworlduk): https://www.ebay.es/itm/Prima-Black-Switching-JAMMA-Power-Supply-5V-12V-MWP-606/391789204197 Apart from some capacitor brands it's identical to the other one I got from the official distributor.

  • I soldered the board but there is a gap between the pcb and the connector. I did a brief test and it fits perfectly with the KEL... will check again tomorrow and report back. KEL plastic feels tougher than HIROSE, this one feels somewhat fragile. The text in white in my Hirose connector erases very easily, not sure if this is normal, I got it from Smallcab, I think it's original because the grip is very nice and apart from the plastic it feels high quality. It has HRS engraved in the lateral. I …

  • I've made some tests with different boards and power cables soldering them directly to the jamma pins to discard issues with the pcb tracks and the jamma connector. The cables are approximately 10 inches long. In my experience the only way to reduce voltage drop consistently to 0.01V is to use two 15AWG wires (1.5mm copper diameter) for +5V and two 15AWG wires for GND. The problem using 18 AWG wires is that big boards like Ninja Gaiden drop the voltage to ~0.1V while smaller boards like MV1B vol…

  • I've tried with a Blaupunkt and a Philips old fashioned CRT tv set. I've tested punk shot only at Blaupunkt TV, not with the Philips. I think this distortion is related with the speaker impedance. I made a cable wiring from the pcb to a SCART connector (I'm still waiting for the 8 pin mini din male connector). For audio I connected Left and Right pins (2 and 6) to the audio signal coming from the attenuation circuit, AGND is connected to ground. I made sure speaker- is not connected.