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  • InfiniKey-CPS1

    arcadeqc - - Temple of the Undamned

    Post

    Be wary of ordering B-21s through UTsource. I placed an order for a couple a few months back and never received anything. I inquired through all means of communication possible and never received a response or acknowledgment. In the end, Paypal refunded the purchase after dispute. Just my 2 cents

  • Home Arcade System

    arcadeqc - - RGB's lab

    Post

    I am looking for more information about the 3P4P adapter. I understand that it uses the IGS PGM pinout. I tried using a regular IDE cable to hook it to a PGM and the inputs weren't mapped correctly. What should I be using to correctly connect it? Where can I find a bare 34 pin connector that I can wire as I wish?

  • 2.54mm spacing would be great for the voltmeter, it would allow optionally using Dupont connectors. Otherwise I agree the design is good overall. The header pins / jumper option works well and the DB15 spacing issue is resolved. I do agree a 9pin version would be nice, but making those adapters is clever, I'll try that Great work Frank_fjs, can't wait to try those 4P adapters!

  • I think it would be nice to space the voltmeter vias so that a 2 pin connector could be used alternatively. This would help with building the unit for people. Personally, I don’t have trouble installing it with the current design, but I do leave a bit of slack to help with putting everything together.

  • Quote from SabreAZ: “4 player adapter should work for 2.1? ” I don’t see why not. Even the previous v1.x will work with it.

  • Home Arcade System

    arcadeqc - - RGB's lab

    Post

    32 to 42$ options for me, with conversion, that amounts to roughly 73CAD, not a bad price for what it is, the RT-125A is available on Digikey for less (51.58CAD) if I buy above 100$ and get free shipping. Quote from opt2not: “ Quote from jassin000: “Yea cheap caps I get that... but when you say the price for a Mean Well is almost the same... Uh, I'm seeing around 100$ for the Mean Well, but 30$ for the Suzo Happ. I think I will upgrade eventually, cuz yes of course I like the higher quality EVER…

  • Quote from mdfverona: “Quote from mdfverona: “I'm planning to use a HD retrovision Genesis cable ” Turns out this is a bad idea. The HD retrovision genesis cable uses composite for sync not csync. I'm using a Retrotink now and don't have any scart stuff yet, guess its time to try a shinybow? ” If you have an attenuated 75 ohm csync signal, you can connect that to composite and the HDRV cables will accept it just fine. Their design strips csync from composite.

  • Quote from Frank_fjs: “I kind of agree with you. Personally, I don't utilise PCB feet / standoffs as: 1. The Minigun is light weight and compact and doesn't place significant stress on the jamma finger of the game board. 2. All my game PCBs are at different heights so PCB feet can actually make things worse in some scenarios. E.g. CPS2 sits lower, some boards don't have feet at all etc. 3. Since you've designed an awesome 3D printable case, it kind of negates the need for holes on the PCB. If I …

  • Quote from Frank_fjs: “Here's where I'm heading for version 2.0: - DB15s further spaced apart to resolve 2 x Undamned encoders not fitting side by side. - Tabs with 3mm holes added to each corner of the PCB to accommodate PCB feet / standoffs / mounting / plexi base attachment etc. I believe this approach fixes the DB15 spacing issue and provides additional mounting options without comprising the DB15s being centred nor the general design and layout that I like. I might move the tactile switches…

  • I just published the first release of a 3d printed case I designed for the Minigun supergun. This is designed and tested to fit the v1.7 "advanced" edition. I am also providing an untested version for the "standard edition." thingiverse.com/thing:3807401 arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c I'm also making these available for 25$ shipped if someone is interested but doesn't have the means to print it. I'll forward a tip to Frank_fjs for every case sold. arcade-projects.com/fo…

  • I make them using Molex Mini-Fit Jr connectors and crimps from Digikey. digikey.ca/product-detail/en/m…9012065/WM23702-ND/930272 digikey.ca/product-detail/en/m…000038/WM2501CT-ND/467978 I use terminal fork crimps at the other ends

  • rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpr…Fulk%2Fitm%2F131075272166 I’ve had good success with this one Quote from mdfverona: “Looks like the Sullins EBM28DREH JAMMA connector has gone backorder for now, anyone find a good alternative that fits the minigun right? ”

  • Can you go into the service menu and look at the color bars? As you can see in my initial post, the blue channel was totally screwed up, no only faded. Your screen looks more like a color imbalance. Maybe some resistance or capacitance somewhere needs to be replaced?

  • Making progress on the 3d printed case design. I built it to easily adjust to future layout changes. Also, there is some reinforcement in the case structure for the JAMMA connector and DB15 connectors so they are supported. Feels really sturdy in the hand. Attached with 4 x M3 screws and nuts. I'm using a 3mm light pipe for the power LED. Most of the switches are accessible, I omitted the B4 and LPF for now, but those can be added. I will publish it on Thingiverse once it is completed. arcade-pr…

  • Hey Frank_fjs, do you by any chance have an SVG of the logo you used on the PCB? I am working on designing a 3d printed case for the Minigun Advanced and would love to include a logo on the cover.

  • CPS1 bad video

    arcadeqc - - General Arcade Tech Help

    Post

    I have a couple of CPS1 A boards that I got from a lot of broken boards that are able to boot games, but have very bad graphics. Can someone tell me if I am looking at bad custom A chips or something else? Work RAM tests out ok, and all the colors seem to display, that as much as I can test right now. I read in another thread about a diagnostic ROM from JAMMA Arcade, but I am waiting on the correct EEPROM to arrive to be able to flash that.

  • Replaced those 3 LS157 and it completely resolved the issue! Thank you so much for your help Raph_friend arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c

  • I’m not sure if this was clear from my post. Even though I removed them from their plastic casings and firmly connected them, the issue is still there. I have removed the 3 LS157s between the DL-0921 and DL-1625 and cleaned the pads. All the traces look clean and I am waiting for replacements from Digikey this week. I first tried simply reflowing them, but it didn’t change the output. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c

  • I removed the B board from the plastic shell to make sure I can properly seat it, they are firmly coupled.

  • Ok, I will look into replacing those, thanks for the tip. Am I right ordering them in package 16-SOIC? Visual inspection of the board is good, I rechecked in that area specifically and it is in good shape overall. Something interesting I found is the color test in the service menu. Seems to affect Red and Blue channels mainly. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e04e3b1fe981eb57260d8fd4c