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  • Quote from hursit: “I have written before about the cabinet which looks like %80 original. If people want is closest to original i will get a original one and will try to produce it as soon as possible original ” We really need to get someone local to lend him their legit Cute so that these repos can be a 100% match and even a source for spare parts. it would be a damn shame if he starts producing cabs without the chance to make them perfect.

  • is SVG Any good?

  • it looks like there's an on-board speaker but IIRC there are pins for one on the front panel header as well, I'll give that a try.

  • Yeah, on the dual mode board you'll see a dip switch labeled JUL <=> HOD JUL for Jurassic Park The Lost World (12 led) HOD for House of the Dead 2 (10 led)

  • Quote from Zebra: “ I know that games with larger screens use 12 led boards and others with smaller monitors use 10 ” that's incorrect. Jurassic Park used 12 and every other game after used 10. It has nothing to do with screen size. The jp gun sense board will only work with 12 but the naomi era boards have a switch to switch between 10 led mode and 12 led mode. Later boards dropped support for 12 leds.

  • I had some time to dig into mine today... I have 2 of these boards, neither would power on and the battery was flat on both of them 0.9V on one 0.1V on the other). it looks like there's nothing on the PSU or the mobo to electrically force it to boot, which lead me to believe that it's a setting in the BIOS that tells it to power on automatically. so I looked up the manual and found the pins for the "power switch", they're pins 6 and 8 on the header in the corner of the PCB: arcade-projects.com/f…

  • Quote from Zebra: “What would be a good (or fair) price for a set of working ir monitor sense boards? ” This is a pretty fair price: ebay.com/itm/sega-house-of-the…id=p2047675.c100005.m1851 a full set with harnesses working out to about $15 a piece.

  • I started keeping track of the different model numbers on the Taito Type X units. which specs are listed for those models and which games I'm finding paired with those models. You can see my spread sheet so far here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d…-_u4C_G0/edit?usp=sharing If anyone here has a TTX model number that isn't listed in my spread sheet, I'd be great if you could snap a picture of the spec sticker on your TTX! Also if you still have the original HDD lid with the original game label on …

  • you do not populate CN8, that's an output connector for additional hardware (hence why it has the line through it). you will also need +12V but it just 1 wire that goes directly to the cooling fan on the outside of the case.

  • Quote from Zebra: “I'm surprised that nobody figured out how to make cheaper aftermarket replacements for those OMZ led boards. ” You could probably make repos for around $15 a piece, BUT the problem is, as stated earlier. they use proprietary LEDs that output in a non-standard wavelength... so you could repo the whole thing EXCEPT the LEDs themselves. I bought a Light Spectrometer to determine the wave-length used. and I did just that. and I also bought a few dozen LED models advertised as work…

  • Quote from Zebra: “Both Sega and Raw Thrills guns have the camera (that some call a sensor) in the gun and led boards (which some people also confusingly call sensors) around the monitor. ” Sega uses a Sensor, it's actually a variation on an IR motion sensor used by older security systems. There's no lens or any sort of video output from it at all. Raw Thrills uses a Camera. Quote from Zebra: “ I can get a full set of Raw Thrills led boards for around $30 ” Where? The Betson link says they're $2…

  • on the Sega setup the sensors are the modules inside the guns. the little modules that go around the monitor are simple addressable IR LEDs. So, are you looking for the LED modules or the sensor modules? You can usually find the Sega LED modules for under $15 a piece $10 if you hunt for a bit. I've got 5 or so full sets of them personally, they're pretty easy to come by. I honestly don't know anything about the Raw Thrills equipment, though I was under the impression that they used an IR camera …

  • Quote from biggestsonicfan: “for other Model2 games, there can be up to 8 buttons ” which games use more than 3 buttons per player? Quote from elektromaniak: “more details on how you wired the ATX power supply to your system ” you take the ATX connector pinout: atx-pinout.png To force the ATX PSU on you need to hook "PS_ON#" to any of the "COM" (AKA Ground) pins. then you run the rest of the wires to the correct pins on the model 2 board power connectors: the hard part is the fact that there are…

  • there are plenty, the LCD only uses 2 data pins. Raspberry-GPIO.jpg

  • Quote from nem: “That's interesting. The Type 2 has a ton of digital inputs (link to pinout). What is missing from it? Or is the game coded in the way that it will always look for digital inputs from a second board in the JVS chain? ” the two trackball games (outtrigger and Viruta Golf) both take their digital inputs from Node 1 JVS device and take their rotary encoder inputs from Node 2 JVS device. normally these games expect a type 1 IO in the cab and then have a small dedicated rotary encoder…

  • If anyone buying one of those X+ is swapping to a normal 9600SE to run X1 games let me know, I'd be interested in the 9800XT and I might have an extra 9600SE with the JAMMA BIOS to trade.

  • Quote from nem: “Early adopters be damned. ” one of my coworkers in software development used to say: "The Pioneers the get the arrows, the Settlers get the land". I don't mind buying launch version DS or Apoc products because I know if/when there are problems they'll be solved and any new enhancements are generally made available even for the old versions. but yeah, ODEs and other console stuff (and even stuff like Cell Phones and Cars), I generally wait until the product has the feature set I'…

  • Quote from CoolFox: “I don't think these are cooking themselves. I think the CPUs are shutting off immediately due to overheating (for some reason the heatsink doesn't make contact with the cpu after a while). It was doing that in mine, so I took out the heatsink and put a heatsink/fan on it and it works fine now. Try putting something really cool on the cpu and see what it does. ” Excellent. I think I voiced my skepticism on the "cooking" issue in the other thread but it's good to hear some con…

  • OK so it seems the most common problems are ------------------------------------------ Problem 1. the battery on the mobo dies, causing the clock to reset, then the bios fails post because the clock has died and wont continue booting. We don't have the bios password so we can't fix the clock. Solution to problem #1 thanks to @brizzo Quote from brizzo: “The password is: onestar7 ” Preventative Maintenance for Problem #1 Hot-swap the mobo battery as suggested by @nem ------------------------------…

  • Ok I'm carrying over the discussion from the recent purchases thread... It seems we have a lot of people who own these boards in a dead configuration so lets pool our resources to crack this nut. Quote from twistedsymphony: “Saw someone was selling a bunch of eX-Boards on YAJ with really low starting bids, so I threw a few low-ball bids on 3 of them and went to bed... the next morning I discovered I won 2 of them O_o arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…ca9ce92dac988d5f3ce830824 they're in pretty nice…