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  • Quote from ZERO_MILES: “Thanks, @twistedsymphony! Would you mind giving me some advice on my other conversion thread? Can I convert System Multi 32 --> Regular System 32 game? ” maybe start by followingthe same advice.

  • Quote from ZERO_MILES: “Grave digging a little here... A friend of mine has a pile of Vendetta boards, we were wondering what are "do-able" conversions without having to scavenge custom chips from other pcbs. Any inputs? ” usually the first thing you do to see if conversions are possible is to look at the MAME driver. 99% of the time the only conversions available are going to be other games that use the same driver. looking at the MAME Driver for Vendetta the only other game that uses that driv…

  • I got a new IDE dumping cable in today that allows reading of the ATA ID (Vantec CB-ISATAU2) and hooked it up using a 40-pin male to male IDE cable: amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0174…tle_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also confirmed that the 2 pin connector on the top of the ex-board carts is an optional power connector. with +5V on the outside pin and GND on the Inside pin. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…488da4646e0dd439e04a3b20f This makes dumping pretty easy.

  • For anyone that is interested in joystick/button costs. these are actual prices from focus attack: for 1P: $19.95 1x LS-32 joystick (+$2.95 for JLF since they don't include a balltop) $14.17 6x OBSF30 or PS-14-K push buttons (for gameplay) $2.25 1x OBSF24 or PS-14-D push button (for start) $6.15 Shipping (USPS Priority Domestic) ------------- total for 1P shipped with Semitsu LS series joystick: $42.52 total for 1P shipped with Sanwa JLF series joystick: $45.47 2P setup would obviously be about …

  • Quote from rewrite: “PCB price still has zero to do with the cabinet. ” exactly, it's like buying a truck and including the price of the things you plan to haul with it.

  • It's probably just throwing wildcards between each search terms and searching the post body without any real intelligence behind it.

  • A big problem with the search is that by default it DOESNT seem to search the post title. when realistically it should be prioritizing results that include the search terms in the title. go to the search box and type "FS about 150 or more REAL BOUT" this is the first 7 words of a thread in the for sale section.. the search will tell you that it doesn't exist. Now search again for "realbout" you get 4 results, the first two are posts in the middle of that thread where someone used that term. and …

  • I dug out an old PC speaker and hooked it up... no beeps I get nothing out of the audio port either (tried both "front panel" header that goes to the JAMMA board and the 3.5mm connector on the back)

  • Quote from Zebra: “Is there anything else I need to buy to make this work? ” Assuming you have a +12V power source to run it all That should be all you need hardware wise. having done this myself I will say that getting analog controls to work for guns directly in MAME sucks, you should look for a piece of software that can take the analog input and convert it into mouse position, with calibration. I've heard GlovePie does this but I've never tried.

  • Quote from hursit: “I have written before about the cabinet which looks like %80 original. If people want is closest to original i will get a original one and will try to produce it as soon as possible original ” We really need to get someone local to lend him their legit Cute so that these repos can be a 100% match and even a source for spare parts. it would be a damn shame if he starts producing cabs without the chance to make them perfect.

  • is SVG Any good?

  • it looks like there's an on-board speaker but IIRC there are pins for one on the front panel header as well, I'll give that a try.

  • Yeah, on the dual mode board you'll see a dip switch labeled JUL <=> HOD JUL for Jurassic Park The Lost World (12 led) HOD for House of the Dead 2 (10 led)

  • Quote from Zebra: “ I know that games with larger screens use 12 led boards and others with smaller monitors use 10 ” that's incorrect. Jurassic Park used 12 and every other game after used 10. It has nothing to do with screen size. The jp gun sense board will only work with 12 but the naomi era boards have a switch to switch between 10 led mode and 12 led mode. Later boards dropped support for 12 leds.

  • I had some time to dig into mine today... I have 2 of these boards, neither would power on and the battery was flat on both of them 0.9V on one 0.1V on the other). it looks like there's nothing on the PSU or the mobo to electrically force it to boot, which lead me to believe that it's a setting in the BIOS that tells it to power on automatically. so I looked up the manual and found the pins for the "power switch", they're pins 6 and 8 on the header in the corner of the PCB: arcade-projects.com/f…

  • Quote from Zebra: “What would be a good (or fair) price for a set of working ir monitor sense boards? ” This is a pretty fair price: ebay.com/itm/sega-house-of-the…id=p2047675.c100005.m1851 a full set with harnesses working out to about $15 a piece.

  • I started keeping track of the different model numbers on the Taito Type X units. which specs are listed for those models and which games I'm finding paired with those models. You can see my spread sheet so far here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d…-_u4C_G0/edit?usp=sharing If anyone here has a TTX model number that isn't listed in my spread sheet, I'd be great if you could snap a picture of the spec sticker on your TTX! Also if you still have the original HDD lid with the original game label on …

  • you do not populate CN8, that's an output connector for additional hardware (hence why it has the line through it). you will also need +12V but it just 1 wire that goes directly to the cooling fan on the outside of the case.

  • Quote from Zebra: “I'm surprised that nobody figured out how to make cheaper aftermarket replacements for those OMZ led boards. ” You could probably make repos for around $15 a piece, BUT the problem is, as stated earlier. they use proprietary LEDs that output in a non-standard wavelength... so you could repo the whole thing EXCEPT the LEDs themselves. I bought a Light Spectrometer to determine the wave-length used. and I did just that. and I also bought a few dozen LED models advertised as work…