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  • Dim Picture Nanao ms2931

    Hatsune Mike - - Monitor Help

    Post

    If the heater pins 9 and 10 measure ~6.3V, then the resistor isn't the answer, though. Having talked with @codecrank it sounds like the heater is already at the correct voltage. It might be a good hack to get more brightness out of an EOL tube, but a restore / rejuv is a good first step towards that imo.

  • For that, I'd desolder the audio transformer, and then just pull audio from the MVS's headphone output. That might not be a bad feature for V2...

  • Powering anything but an EDID EEPROM off of VGA pin 9 is sort of not what that pin is for, and it's usually current limited rather heavily. I doubt your issue is related to this, but it's worth noting that getting 5V elsewhere is a better idea. You may have experienced inline HDMI->VGA DACs and other peripherals that aren't terribly reliable, and this is often the cause.

  • Sounds like a supergun that uses the positive speaker terminal with reference to ground

  • I've seen the two versions. The SOIC sound ROM I think is the sample memory. There are spots for a few ceramic bypass caps, but still not enough... It is nice that that later revision adds a keyed JAMMA edge. Your PCB likely won't sync or work because most cabinets (rightfully) do not tie video ground to ground. Despite this PCB being a later revision, the problem is simply because video ground is floating. Tape off the actual JAMMA edge except the inwards tip of it, and solder a wire to ground.…

  • phew, lotta messages to reply to - I'll try and get a pic or two together, and respond in order, but I'll be slow up until about mid next-week since I am pretty swamped with a deadline.

  • so I've got like 10 prototypes that are mostly assembled. They are just missing the CPS2 kick connections (though I have the parts to crimp them) and have only one slightly annoying flaw relating to the stereo support. I have a few things in the queue until I can get to properly making this kit ready for assembly, but I wonder if people here would be interested in the prototypes for a reduced price. Specifically, the prototype has a stupid mistake where I positioned one of the RCA jack sets too …

  • Actually, pressing buttons 1, 2, and 3 together gets you the fourth variant. These variants have slight changes in the ship's movement speeds, shot power, and (I think) hitboxes. The 3-button version is generally the best of each ship. Waiting out the timer also works, but your rank will be a bit higher because it begins incrementing at the select screen. I can see about integrating the Mahou characters by default, but I'd want to do it as an assembly expression rather than a binary patch. Good …

  • I've thrown together a 1.1 revision, with no functional changes, but just a few assembly QOL changes and some slightly component simplifications. I'm going to talk to the board house and see about having them do assembly as well so that we can order these at a more reasonable pace; I'm never assembling one of these by hand as long as I live if I can help it, because we're tired of doing it - factory it is! The 1.1 revision does not represent a different product, and there should be no particular…

  • Before cleaning it, make sure you remove the monitor bezel frame, and the control panel. Otherwise, there are nooks and crannies that you will have trouble cleaning, or simply not discover. With the front panel, bezel, and marquee topper off, the cabinet looks a lot more naked. This is one of the KC aeros after some basic cleaning: 3l3rlSS.jpg

  • The 5380s that work, you should hang on to. The rest are likely not standard Sega locks, nor other common ones, and you can either pick them or drill them out.

  • That monitor needs to be degaussed, which is a manual press of a button, and then it at least needs a cap and resistor checked in the vertical section to fix that foldover. The harness connector likely needs contacts cleaned, and that is why it is so sensitive. If your plan is to scrub around the inside by hand while it's assembled, pushing around wires, etc. I strongly recommend re thinking it and just taking everything out of the cab. What are you getting out of this testing? You have already …

  • Honestly, I think you should put down any electronics, and focus first on cleaning the cabinets and getting to know them inside and out. I used to get cabinets, and if the wiring seemed to work, I didn't even really look at it or consider it. In the last year or two, I changed that process to instead begin with fully stripping the cabinet down, making it squeaky clean (even in the parts you can't see), and putting it all back together bit by bit. it takes about 2-4 hours to do a complete cab thi…

  • There is no volume attenuation on the Aero City. You must adjust it on your board. To change the 5V level, just turn down the adjustment on the power supply. I don't know exactly where it is on the PSU, but it's got one.

  • The megadrive input hardware is not used on C2, though. This uses a custom IO chip.

  • I've had a situation where stuck inputs were not resolved by replacing the diode arrays. In that case, I had to replace the IO custom, unfortunately.

  • @hoagtech, .03v of voltage fluctuation is not really problematic, and at most means maybe it's time to replace the filter caps on the 5V line, after the switching regulator. You likely had such wild variance before because your meter was on a more coarse range. Manually ranged meters often have low-resolution ADCs, so the precision outside of the selected range is somewhat low. Bring it down to ~5.0v, using a less important game (like dottori-kun), and if you are really worried about it then rec…

  • With no source plugged in the MS8 tends to do that even with a correct screen voltage. Are you sure you didn't just plug Tetris in backwards to the JAMMA edge?

  • The one in your first picture is certainly JAMMA. However, it is curious that it is missing -5V. The second picture looks messy, but also like it is JAMMA. Do you have a harness that is different than these two? I recommend getting the G-pin for the HIrose connector, which slots into pin 7, so that you are not able to incorrectly insert pins in the future.

  • Better, you should test at both the power supply as well as at the board. Any significant voltage drop could point to a problem in your wiring harness.