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  • Quote from brentradio: “Couldn't you just cut a small piece of foil about the size of the window and press it to the black tape and then cover the window with the tape? ” I think you misinterpret what I mean by a "proper solution". I'm looking for -something that sticks well to the ROM -something that blocks UV light -something I can cut on my cutting machine into any shape I want -something I can print on with my printer -something that has the same look/finish as an original ROM label

  • the "CAB IO" board on the Blast City uses a JST RA connector, which seems to match the connector for a floppy drive ribbon cable including the key pin. Though, I'm still not entirely sure how this information is useful since it still needs to be routed to a model 2 or 3 filter board or JAMMA or something else.

  • I was hoping to get my hands on one and design my own 3D printed tray but missed both pre-order windows due to work. Glad to hear people are having success with them. Hopefully I can get one in the next batch.

  • Quote from -Ace-: “In regards to this, does anyone know where I can source good quality type eprom window stickers, similar to what they use on the Capcom CPS1/2 boards? I am interested in quality and not just any white sticker, etc. ” I've asked this exact question before: "CAPCOM" EPROM Labels? Real Labels have a foil embedded in them to help block UV light and so far I've yet to find a satisfactory option. The few places I've found that have labels for sale in the proper material have ended u…

  • Quote from AlxUnderBase: “Don't forget sir to put some tape over your eproms . don't let the UV part free ” I've seen lots of people leave the windows exposed like it's no big deal. But I've also bought more than a few "non-working" PCBs for dirt cheap that their only problem was they were missing the window sticker, the data was corrupt, and needed to be re-flashed.

  • yes you should see it in windows before you can flash. is it a genuine Arudino or a knock-off? sometimes the knock-offs need different drivers. either way it's likely a driver issue.

  • there are numerous models of Arduino, when you write an Arduino program it is typically designed for a specific model, or sub-set of models Due, Zero, and Leonardo are all different models of Arduino Due: store.arduino.cc/usa/due Zero: store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-zero Leonardo: store.arduino.cc/usa/leonardo it looks like the Leonardo might support HID output, but you also need to make sure that the Arduino IDE software is set to write to a Leonardo before you can upload the program.

  • Quote from bobbydilley: “This will only work for an Arduino Due or Zero ” Quote from Zebra: “I can't seem to make this code work. I get this error message when I click "upload": Arduino: 1.8.10 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Leonardo" ” First, are you using an Arduino Due or Zero? Second are you selecting the right target board when trying to upload?

  • I have a hard time believing that the NAOMI is AC coupled.

  • I wouldn't say it's a "replica", I just pulled out a 5575 I had laying around and compared measurements. this seems to be within 1mm on the mounting dimensions and shaft size which is the important part. head diameter on this listed is 25mm and it's 21.5 on the 5575. This also has a centered keyway where the 5575 does not. that seems to be the most significant difference. the most important thing if you're looking for a functional replacement are the measurements in the top left image. and the b…

  • just pure speculation on my part but it's probably because of the way most players stand with the gun near the center of the screen vertically, but with wildly different positions horizontally depending on where the player is standing. honestly these kinds of things are mostly just determined by testing. you try it with 4, not enough, bump it up to 6, not enough, try 10, etc.

  • Quote from bobbydilley: “What seems strange to me is that it requires 5 LEDs to for detecting the X Axis but effectively only 2 LEDs for the Y axis. I know the Y axis is shorter but at a rate of 4:3 or 16:9 not 5:1. ” that's because it doesn't use all 5 to determine X position. it only needs 2. so when you're points at the left side of the screen it doesn't even see the LEDs on the right and it uses the left two most LEDs to determine position. if you look at the technical information on the OHM…

  • Quote from bobbydilley: “Do we know how the math actually functions to go from a effectively a 2x2 intensity camera (if I understand how the PIR functions) to a pixelmap of where it's pointing? The PIR plates would have to be calibrated mentally well for it to detect a light intensity change of such as small value - but maybe thats what the POTs are for on the PCB? I'm also assuming that A B C and D connections (from your write up) would be the voltages from each PIR plate? ” I left out any "spe…

  • I have many times before. most recently in my write up here: solid-orange.com/1611 which is linked on the first page of this thread and on at least 3 other posts @rtw has recently done some testing using a scope to look at the data on the various pins. LED chain is confirmed to be a simple addressable set of LEDs it's basically just got a flip-flop to turn them on one at a time from a simple pluse signal. more research needs to be done on the actual data coming off of the sensor but it's essenti…

  • Quote from bobbydilley: “I beleive people think its a PIR sensor that its somehow using as a camera. ” It's a PIR sensor (4 of them actually), it says as much in the patent documentation on this system, and it's not being used as a camera, it's being used as a PIR sensor. There's no pixel map, it simply detect intensity of the LEDs relative to the quadrants of the IR sensor. it's the same exact mechanism as a IR motion sensor on an old alarm system. Quote from bobbydilley: “I beleive there is an…

  • oh shit, that's some serious heat.

  • Quote from brad808: “While you are buy stuff for multi meter get yourself some nice probemaster. All attachments you will need plus highest quality probes at good pricing. probemaster.com/dmm-multimeter-test-leads/ ” the real deal right here: 9104R-lg__89176.1527787179.jpg

  • Thanks for the Pics! that's a 74LS74 arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…08cb3df153cd80e1aed9c2e91 it looks like it's wired to only use the first flip flop pin 1 -> pin 4 pin 2 -> ? Hard to tell I lose the trace around the C57 solder mask pin 3 -> ? Hard to tell I lose the trace around the C57 solder mask pin 4 -> pin 1 pin 5 -> N/C pin 6 -> ? Appears to go under IC66 not sure where it ends up pin 7 -> GND pin 8 -> N/C pin 9 -> N/C pin 10-> N/C pin 11-> N/C pin 12-> N/C pin 13 -> N/C pin 14 -> +5V I'…

  • is this a single board version or a 2-board version?

  • sorry but Aligator clips are terrible for PCB work. like trying to use a sledge hammer to build a birdhouse. they scratch up PCBs and test points and even your probes. even the alligator clips on helping hands I cover each jaw with heat shrink tube so I can use them to hold my PCBs without scratching them up. IMO For most stuff you should be using hook clips instead: amazon.com/Yohii-Temperature-S…fRID=MVD22KNXJTY1Q3NMPW89