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  • Quote from xtrasmiley: “Nice. I’d like to know how to swap out the joystick too. Most modern ones are too deep. ” Supposedly you can make one fit with plastic notification but my stick is still functioning perfectly so I haven’t done that part yet

  • one of my way smaller projects than usual lol, but I really wanted to do a simpler video in one part vs 4 on my Hyper NG 64 conversions lol My A button was dying and probably dropping like half the inputs, so I decided it was time to modernize it with some violet Sanwa buttons. If anyone ever has to do this in the future hopefully the video helps a bit

  • Haha neither was I I just need to swap the pot in the wheel, but I am not making a damn part 5 lol. It works, just degraded too badly, so I put the flight stick in to show the wiring and concept is good. I’ll do a separate “how to replace a pot” video at some point

  • finally finished this project! Took an infinitely larger amount of time than I ever expected. In the end I had to have some harnesses sent in from Germany and I made my own schematic since SNK forgot to put half the damn pin out on their own schematic lol but for the first time since getting both HNG 64 driving games, I can play them at home with consumer hardware!

  • The four pin looks like a JST YL or VL. Just use digikey and insert the pin number, row number, pin pitch, should spit back a correct result

  • hope this helps someone. Had a bunch of comments and questions about use of gator clips in previous videos, so I whipped this up. Basically I love gator clips lol

  • You should be able to go to whatever city / state agency that governs building codes and pull your place up (architectural and engineering drawings) and get the data you need to figure out the structural integrity / load bearing capacity of your place. Or you could look up building codes in your area and as long as your place isn’t clearly 100+ years old you should be able to expect that kid bearing number is legit

  • might be super common knowledge to most on here, but I’d had a lot of questions about it when I did a video series about building a custom stick for my supergun, so I’m leaving it here. Wayyyy cheaper than buying a pre-built one

  • I’m sure 90% of people here know this, but it’s for the people who may come with the questions. After I did a CHD to bin/cue for arcade cd recreation video, I had a bunch of people asking for a GDI version. Hope everyone had a good Xmas!

  • Quote from LittleLarrySellers: “yeah.. Having a working board for reference helped me a lot. And the alligator clip advice on how to probe is great. Thanks! Now I just have to not suck at desoldering. ” I love the gator clamp on probe. It makes working 10x easier having both hands free for the second probe

  • So there was a problem with the via in the photo! Glad you found it

  • Yeah its a bummer. I am sure you could add extra ram though

  • Since I've gotten a lot of messages here and elsewhere about Konami M2 boards and which one someone should buy / how to convert them, etc etc, I made this. Hope it helps anyone who owns the hardware or wants to get into collecting for it. Gotta love Konami for printing the "key" on the front of the discs lolol

  • Yes, seems normal if it’s identical on your working board. Sometimes continuity testing and resistance is tricky. The more I look at the first photo the more I see that raised area behind the cap leg. It looks like something is lifted. I don’t have a schematic or this game, but look into seeing if can safely test it with the cap removed. See if it gets power.

  • Quote from LittleLarrySellers: “Yeah, I have the schematics. I will go over everything with a fine toothed probe LOL. Hopefully, I find whatever it is I f'd up. Thanks! ” You'll find it eventually. Although I'd be 99% confident something you did caused the problem, def still look over the entire board. Its uncommon but not unheard of for something ELSE to eat shit and die at a very inopportune time. I've definitely tried to figure out "what I did wrong" before, only to come to the conclusion som…

  • Quote from LittleLarrySellers: “Ah nice. That is a good way to do bunch of continuity checks with the alligator clamp. I can try probing around quickly with that approach. No fuse on the board either btw. The photo was a pic of the original "bad" cap which lead me into this mess after I replaced it. Here is a better photo with all the caps I replaced and the HA13001 I soldered in which originally got me most of the sound back before this thing shorted out. Thanks for the tips. Will try the allig…

  • Ghost 'n Goblins help

    awbacon1 - - General Arcade Tech Help


    also in your photo something seems to be sticking up in the back of the via. Is there anything lifted that isn’t just solder? It’s so hard to tell from the photo but something looks a tad bit off there

  • Ghost 'n Goblins help

    awbacon1 - - General Arcade Tech Help


    Not exactly. If there is a short to ground, a non-ground point will have continuity to the ground plane. Think of it this way. If you put one probe of your multimeter on ground on the JAMMA edge, and the other probe on any ground contact on the pcb itself, in continuity mode it will have a sustained beep. If you put one probe on the JAMMA edge ground, and another on the JAMMA edge 5V, you won’t have continuity and you won’t hear a sustained beep. If I was diagnosing it, I’d alligator clamp a gro…

  • Sounds like there is a short to ground somewhere. I'd get the multimeter out and start probing around the areas you worked on. Look for shorts to ground from the point of the cap replacement and build a radius out from there. Start at the source, then work outwards. Dumb question but you did test the supply and gun on a known working board right? Way small chance but test to make sure your power supply didn't just die at a really inopportune moment. I reread what you wrote and you didnt say "tri…

  • part 3. Or why I hate optical encoders lolol