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  • One of the best looking JAMMA extenders I've seen are from this Chinese seller on Taobao but its pretty difficult to by from him and his English is poor so can't sell outside of the platform. item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a…5065631&scene=taobao_shop He has a bunch of really good looking arcade and RGB related products.

  • US Atomiswave set of cabs

    Blackfish - - Project Showcase

    Post

    Quote from Dreygor: “I'd like to get ahold of and try a couple these that this guy used. kelvinsgamingheaven.blogspot.c…in-house-whoop-whoop.html but I searched all over Ali Express and could not find it anywhere. ” I'm pretty sure that I have these. I bought a bunch of his Naomi gear a while back and these were included. He has also recently joined the forum @Rugdoctor

  • Yeah, I think the suggestion is to cover the windows up again to prevent them from erasing again.

  • You're not crazy, I totally remember someone asking for one.

  • Another area to check is the 12V supply from the Power Supply. If your power supply is getting old noise will also be introduced in the 12V supply itself. Some PCB seem to be more susceptible to this than others. After re-capping the PSU in my cabinets I noticed a substantial reduction in noise in both the Audio and Video signals. This noise would also often change with the video signals as the caps are used for filtering.

  • Quote from brizzo: “No solder solution, use a probe / grabber ” HNo solder solution, use a probe / grabber Quote from brizzo: “ ” aha Nice but those are almost more dangerous than a soldering Iron in the wrong hands

  • Quote from brizzo: “Can you post a photo or link to the STV selector? I'm not familiar with the device ” Added link to the selector at the bottom of the first post.

  • Yeah, I was really wanting to avoid people having to do any soldering on the original boards. I think this way the risk of people accidentally damaging already hard to get boards is negated. It also means that if using it with multiple multi's there is only the one dip switch jumper cable that has to be changed between boards. This solution would probably also work with the ST-V and may remove the need for the reset connection on the motherboard.

  • Ok, I'll open a thread an try to best describe the interface Quote from waiwainl: “Why don't you open up a new post with your ideas? ” OK, here it is Idea for Universal LCD selector Interface PCB

  • Universal Interface Board for the ST-V LCD Selector While talking to @Apocalypse awhile ago I had an idea to use the current ST-V LCD Selector (made by @miisalo ) as a Universal selector for all the multi's that use dip switches for game selection. I had purchased one to use on a ST-V board I had bought, but that ended up being dead. So after having a quick look at how the selector works it look as though with a little programming, the menu could be changed to represent any multi that used dip s…

  • It's definitely possible to use the same set up as the ST-V for selection by modifying the the code but the issue on the M72 and C2 boards is the lack of an easily accessible reset signal. I have an idea for a solution but it requires a PCB to be made and I still don't have the skills to do this. If someone who does have PCB design skills is willing to help I'm happy to give them my idea as it will be awhile before I can do it myself. I also don't have either of the boards for this multi. Which …

  • Welcome! Not your usual profile shot but love it.

  • Hmmm Neo Geo Kock harness..... Sounds like something that would be hugely popular on another forum I can think of. Hehe Kock harness.

  • In the link I added there's a schematic for the rodotron chassis. It is clear from that, that the only RGB connection is via the DB15 VGA connector. If you want to use this with standard Jamma boards you will need an adapter that can plug into this.

  • I have a feeling that the Jamma video signal is disconnected. My chassis only ever worked through the VGA cable. I never actually tried 15khz, only 24 and 31khz then it died.

  • Yeah, I think that a rodotron 666 you need to switch the impedance switch for the 15khz or it won't display. Those are dodgy chassis's that don't actually like changing between resolutions that much. Mine recently died for no reason. Literally the fist time I put my Naomi in it. Here's useful link if it is a Rodotron wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Rodotron_666

  • Is there a switch on the monitor remote board for changing the circuit impedance? Some Tri-sync monitors require it.

  • I have already been looking into this. The problem is the new multi's don't have an easily accessible reset pin. Meaning you need to cycle the power to the board. This will also drop power from the ST-V selector. I have a few ideas around making it work but haven't got the skills at the moment and am in the process of trying to learn what I need to, to make it possible. If someone wanted to take my idea for a generic selector based on the ST-V selector I'll talk to them about it. Otherwise you c…

  • Just because I had to give my brain a rest at work for a minute, I did a quick search for the button wiring and couldn't find anything that states how its wired. I did find a bunch of images of the underside of the panel however and from what I can tell the mech in in the button must just contain a light that is triggered by the closing of the switch so its just using the button input voltage. Probably doesn't help but here you go. arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e229698a3990447ba14e38aca

  • Sometimes living at the bottom of the world has its advantages!! Thanks @Apocalypse arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…e229698a3990447ba14e38aca