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  • twitter.com/citrus3000psi/status/1071805707803078658 Dreamcast Custom case. If you ever do add DCHDMI support for a future revision, make sure the GDEmu boards are from the real deal and not a Chinese clone as some of them have the incorrect crystal on the G1 bus

  • InfiniKey-CPS2

    Greenalink - - Temple of the Undamned

    Post

    If I am reading correctly I see a lot of orders of 10 minimum outside of the US. I only got 1 board to revive and I don't mind ordering 10 if that is the only accepted minimum order quantity.

  • Where can I buy a long LCD cable separately? Because I am having second thoughts after using the default LCD cable for nearly a month.

  • Sorted out the interconnect board and it finally works!!! I am also happy that my soldering skills wasn't the cause of this.

  • That's what I was thinking. The interconnect was initially super hard to push in back in January and you can see from the screenshot that it's not fully straight. Pulling it out is tougher than the CN9 connector.

  • This is carrying on from my previous attempt back in January. I got a new soldering station with a thinner iron which did made those tiny circles a piece of cake. However, I am still getting a pink screen issue. The screen goes black when changing game and the LCD device is fully functional. So it is either: A) Those 4 pesky wires... again Or B) The physical connection with the multi kit to a dead cps2 board.

  • Gotcha, I have been using this which is a tad too big for the contacts I am trying to solder. I do have a desoldering tool to remove old solder and will think about purchasing a more precise soldering iron and flux later this month after sorting out my room. i.ebayimg.com/images/g/aJEAAOSwHnFVozuW/s-l500.jpg s-l500.jpg That's right. I'm a speedrunner from Awesome Games Done Quick 2013 and 2016 (and European Speedrunner Assembly 2014, 2016, 2017 and Winter 2018). Currently focusing on Streets of …

  • Congratulations, I need to fix my 4 wirings myself sometime in the future, did you use gel like flux at all or did you tin both the wires and small 4 circles before soldering together?

  • Hey everyone, it has been a while since my last post but I am curious about one thing. The power supply unit, obviously they were meant to be inside arcade cabinets/desktop pc units but has anyone designed/built/ordered an enclosure for the MWP-606 models that makes it safer to be used for various gaming events? Example of an enclosure I am looking for. thingiverse.com/thing:486564 If that link fails go to thingiverse.com/ and then type 486564

  • I'll pass on the glue gun. Would a multimeter help me figure out which wire is properly connected to the gold point or not? I won't be able to do much about until next weekend when I should have my hands on a good paste flux.

  • Yes I do tin my wires. It definitely does help out. I use a flux core solder for this. Unless you are using a different kind of flux such as paste (I'll double check if I have any) or soldering liquid flux.

  • My method was to slightly heat up the gold pads so that you can get a small dab of solder, I also tin the wire which makes the last bit doable by placing the soldered wire next to the soldered spot from earlier, you get the idea what happens next. You could say it was a mixture of precise solder and nerves due to a pricey kit that held me back for now. Quote from Mitsurugi-w: “I think he needs to check the order of his wires. Sounds like he has them backwards. ” I actually watched your video for…

  • I can say that my solder attempt needs a bit of an improvement, the good news is that it just needs a bit more over the wire. if right most is CN9 #1 then from right to left it's Empty = CN9 #1 Blue = CN9 #2 Blue b = CN9 #3 Red = CN9 #4 Red b = CN9 #5 Empty = CN9 #6 arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…33cb53dd2d84169468ad3e2e9

  • Just the 4 wires, no reset wire because I legitimately forgot. So instead, I turn it off and then back on the system after it has written a game for a manual reset. Still nothing.

  • Ok, now I can see the LCD screen properly. Selecting a MAME rom, does the Flash Writing and then the extra Key Writing afterwards and says "Currently Playing: Alien VS Predator". The screen is still pink. So there is a possible loose connection somewhere.

  • No I wasn't able to see any text on my LCD screen when I turned on the system + darksoft to update the fw* and it's an enclosed variant, how do I tweak the LCD contrast? *The fw image file was gone when I put the micro SD card back to the PC to view the data so it should have been updated.

  • Yes, I got the Rom pack from here and it's a revision 7 board.

  • Finally assembled the Darksoft CPS2 kit with 4 wires soldered to take advantage of Key Writing after updating the firmware. Added my games so the root directory is just Games folder then it's the majority of MAME rom folders and a few hacked rom folders. The output gives me a pink/purple screen and there's no text on my LCD. Any suggestions on how to fix this, I'm hoping it's as simple as sorting out the files, if it is super bad.... is there a service that can fix the issue?

  • Quote from twistedsymphony: “JST NH series Housing: H6P-SHF-AA Pins: SHF-001T-0.8BS uses 22-28 AWG wire You can order directly through JST: order.jst-mfg.com/InternetShop…countryId=840&language=en minimum order quantity is usually a quantity of 10 per part. so either order a few housings you dont need or setup a group by. LOTS of Sega harnesses use JST NH series stuff if you've got any old equipment kicking around. ” Thank you very much for having business with JST Shop. JST Shop will be closed …

  • Quote from twistedsymphony: “you want the JST NH series connectors for this ” That's one of the problems I'm having. There are no results when I am searching for NH series. The one I had was the XH series but turns out to be too tight. I'm just posting here to get some help before I purchase a product with holes that are either too small or too big.