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  • Sega Megalo 410

    ReplicaX - - General Arcade Tech Help

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    Quote from tiff_lee: “Always baffles me what people do with these, as whenever they come up for sale the critical parts are always missing. ” Cause the seller that gave them away for free got them that way as the rest of the parts never came as promised to him. I'll leave it at that, not gonna stir drama.

  • Quote from nem: “Quote from djsheep: “Turn off the power, adjust as necessary using the pot/knob on your PSU and re-measure. ” No need to turn off the power, better to keep it on so you don't overshoot. If you have a friend and there's two of you, one can keep the meter leads on the connector and the other one can adjust the pot. Of course you could do this by yourself too (holding both leads with one hand), but there's always the risk of slipping one of the leads and creating a short. ” This. I…

  • PCB Preheater

    ReplicaX - - General Arcade Tech Help

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    Quote from brad808: “If you want I have extra fr1012. New and used. More expensive unit than those though. I can take arcade stuff in trade though ” You seem to have quite an arsenal up there

  • PCB Preheater

    ReplicaX - - General Arcade Tech Help

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    My only experience is with $2-3k+ IR preheaters for over 4yrs. Really depends on your price range and freq. of use. I sold mine as I cut down on SMD work, as the next step for me with demand would have required a larger investment in a new full rework / BGA reballing station.

  • Those should be MS8-26s there is no 28 I'm aware of.

  • Quote from Mukuro_W: “Q 25, great cab! Glorious mistsubishi tube drived by a great nanao ms8-25FAR....and yes about the amp the current vary based on load/volume, obviously, plus the rated 12v 2.5a needed before the rectifier must be multiplied x 1,41 jus after the rectifier so we have the legendary 18V approx wich are not used obvioulsy... ” My Q25 uses a Toshiba tube with the MS-8-25FBC variant. Both combinations look amazing on that cab after you properly tune the monitor. My cabinet runs the…

  • Current will vary based on the load/volume. Most of you will not utilize even half the wattage on a different cab with its stock speakers. On the Q25, the speakers are one of the biggest features of the cabinet and the fact they are in a bookshelf style enclosure. Unfortunately, the manual does not list the speaker specs and there is no sticker with the specs on the back. Just the Capcom part # CSP - 001A. My Q25 is right next to my NNC and due to the higher quality speakers and amp, the NNC doe…

  • Quote from xtrasmiley: “This is a very cool thread, but can you guys tell me why there is such big demand for a child size arcade machine? ” From my perspective of playing one multiple times in Japan and then playing and helping restore one in the US. In JPN I saw them mostly in small shops with limited space. I didn't see any at the actual arcades. I have seen many ppl on FB groups argue that they were "in all the arcades and saved space" I'm sorry, that was not my experiences there at all. Tal…

  • Centipede cabinet died

    ReplicaX - - General Arcade Tech Help

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    Good olde Blue always causing problems

  • Quote from donluca: “That's going to wrap it up. If I had one of those I'd just bypass the rectifier and send 12V DC from the cab's PSU and call it a day. No one will ever need the full 45W output of the power amp in a cab. ” This is likely true for the majority of you using non Capcom QSound cabinets as they have your typical low power speakers. Not the case for US Big Blue and Q GrandAm 25s. For Impress, no idea what they have for speakers.

  • Quote from donluca: “Quote from Jdurg: “Right now, I would KILL for an alternative way to power the amp. I've just been told that US Customs has destroyed my transformer. (Drilled a hole right through it). We need to find a transformer that can be used as a replacement for the original as it looks like they cannot be imported anymore. ” @Artemio finally measured the voltage going from the original transformer and it read 11.2V AC twitter.com/Artemio/status/1191544118817755136?s=20 Knowing this, …

  • Quote from Mitsurugi-w: “As with all Atari pcbs of that era look for burning on the edge connector. ” As Mitsu mentioned, very common. Also check the socketed ICs they can come loose from moving a cabinet around. The size of the board and side mount does tend to flex even fully mounted. If there is heat discoloration as you said, indeed check continuity on your Gnd and voltage on your rails. Does it play blind at all? Another common fix I've done if it has the original G07 is the RGB Sync input …

  • Quote from thegreathopper: “The Capcom transformer is 17 volts AC as I recall. ” 14VAC AO Wiki has been updated to reflect it. Bxl3PKX.jpg

  • All you folks have to do is copy how the Q25 and Impress are wired to switch between JAMMA audio and Stereo RCA. You can even incorporate a switch into it as the cabinets instead use a 4 wire JST connector and 2 plugs for each output. Here are the schematics for both cabs: wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/f/f5/Capcom_Impress_Manual.pdf wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/9/96/Capcom_Q25_Manual.pdf

  • Quote from potato: “When you all say KC do you mean kou_cheu on ebay? If so, is $1050 for a Blast City considered a good find? Seems so overpriced to me.. ” Correct

  • Quote from wasspat: “- The power supply is plugged with 220v wires (blue + white and the green for ground) with a electrical outlet, in France the electricity is 220V so it's logical. With another country in europe maybe you'll need to use the 240v wire (violet instead of blue). For US and JP people I guess the power supply from UDC will not be suitable. Thats all ” For the 18VAC QSound Amp (not the 12VDC Impress Amp): The CPT-002B Kitamura Kiden transformer is required for US/JP 110/100v. The C…

  • Aye, start at 5.0v no load and increase to 5v when connected. Capcom I/O can be a power hog so remember to adjust voltage back down when switching back to another PCB. I just recapped one and I had to increase .2v from 5v no load.

  • Q is back in action! @nem Cap List works for both the FAR and FBC variants. xhR0cR1.jpg XXj8ulJ.jpg Aumym4s.jpg

  • Portable 25” Arcade Rig

    ReplicaX - - Project Showcase

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    Aww EVO. Promoting crappy Arcade1up cabs and trashing arcade monitors. It's not like EVO can afford 1000s of Dynamo cabs or something. I mean, those are BIG money.

  • Quote from nem: “@ReplicaX Well, I wasn't completely wrong. Went through all my three chassis and look what I found: arcade-projects.com/forums/ind…683e38feaa8304def9d993440 C240 (not C574) is a 10uf 16V BP. See how the PCB doesn't have a polar marking. This is the chassis where C572 is a 100uf 16V cap. Two of my chassis are like this. However, the third one is like yours, where C572 is 47uf 16V. Guess who put the wrong cap in C574? I have had some issues with the horizontal width on that monito…