(Pre-Orders Open Now) Console JAMMAizer! Easily connect home consoles to your JAMMA arcade cabinet.

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    • ^Exactly. You can’t “just” add a feature that the current MC Cthulhu doesn’t even support. And for Arthrimus to try to even attempt this would be a huge endeavor let alone delaying the release of this already awesomely designed board.
      Like it was mentioned, use the EZ Pad Hack board or just suffice with the P3 and P4 ports.
    • ark125 wrote:

      Arthrimus wrote:

      No pre-orders yet. I've still got some things to finalize before I open them.
      With the dreamcast we will not be able to save the progess because we will lack the VMU. It will be possible to add a small memory on the board?Something similar to the brook super converter: PS3/PS4 to dreamcast Adapter does?
      Thx

      No need what I will do, make an extender with JST femal plug to connect to hackpad PCB made by Artrymus. I will connect my PS1 hack pad (see picture below:

      photos.app.goo.gl/WyNfHwFyFD4hao1m9

      And use total control plus adpter avallable here:

      hkems.com/m_main.htm


      For XBOX 360 and PS3 you need korean adpter Etokki (zero lag) and for other console (Saturn, MD, SNES...) you can take tototek adpter here:



      tototek.com/store/index.php?ma…oduct_info&products_id=52
    • Arthrimus wrote:

      ark125 wrote:

      opt2not wrote:

      ark125 wrote:

      Arthrimus wrote:

      No pre-orders yet. I've still got some things to finalize before I open them.
      With the dreamcast we will not be able to save the progess because we will lack the VMU. It will be possible to add a small memory on the board?Something similar to the brook super converter: PS3/PS4 to dreamcast Adapter does?Thx
      nothing's stopping you from connecting a DC controller with VMU to port 3 or 4 for saving.
      I know. but I think that it wouldn´t be hard to implement. And it is something that would come in handy.
      I think your perspective on what would or would not be hard to implement is a bit skewed. Something like that is well outside of the scope of this project. I wouldn't even know where to begin implementing a feature like that. A controller plugged into the 3rd or 4th controller port is the common method for saving when using MC Cthulhus on Dreamcast.
      I am more than happy with the product you are going to produce. I just wanted to know if the board's memory could be used for that purpose. That way, we could always introduce that implementation into a firmware update. I will probably be encouraged to implement it when I receive the board. It will be available the source code?
    • It's not that your feature request is annoying or offensive. It is that it is way out of the scope of the design. Arthrimus made that clear. But you seem to misunderstand JAMMAizer's implementation of controller inputs from a cab's panel to the console.

      Here is my perspective on it. Barring any DIY solutions, the only other solutions for Console-to-JAMMA are TheLastBandit's JAMMACon and viletim's promised Redgun project. With both of these mentioned efforts, the developers came up with their own solutions for console controller input. Many potential users of a console-to-JAMMA adapter take issue with this. The reason being is that it requires additional investment for each console we wish to connect to a cab. Users would have to buy a proprietary controller PCB that can't be used in any other application. The problem with that is that since 2013, there have been commerically available MC (multi-console) PCB's from developers that specialize in MC interfacting. These folks have darned near perfected that art and made it a science. The advantage of the JAMMAizer's controller input is that it leverages the 2x10 pin header, first popularized by Akishops PS360+, which has been the gold standard for interfacing custom/external controls into consoles. This in itself is a HUGE advantage. Many in the market for JAMMAizer realize they can repurpose their MC PCB's, while still being able to use them in our fight sticks. JAMMAizer's controller inputs are just copper traces grounded to the JAMMA edge connector. There is no memory or custom IC's or code to release. Integration of RGB's IC is for button mapping and autofire features; effectively rerouting copper connections through integrated circuitry. There are no provisions for memory reads in JAMMAizer's design.

      Given that, should there need to be provisions for VMU's, these requests need to be directed to developers of the MC PCB's. I can tell you should you wish to pursue this, you either are an immortal being, and therefore life is not precious to you, or have tremdous financial resources at your disposal. Akishops (PS360+) has been defunct/dormant since 2015, Toodles (MC Cthulhu) has shunned the world and is widely believed to be in Alaska chillen' with Bigfoot, and Brook (Brook Retro board) is too smart to put resources into developing VMU adapter for their retro board that can be solved for by plugging in a 3rd controller into the DC's 3rd or 4th port.

      TL;DR: Your request is misguided and academic. Arthrimus has explained already he doesn't have a way to implement it. And as Frank eloquently states, addressing each niche request wears designers down.
    • Frank_fjs wrote:

      I'm not offended at all. Nothing wrong with suggesting ideas, asking for features etc. :)

      Just gets a bit much sometimes, as a designer, when asked to add feature after feature after feature. Wears you down.
      Yep. This REALLY irks me, when people who take an interest in a product or project start their self entitlement bullshit like it’s their own. It happens all over the place, not just in this hobby. Some people have no shame, and a false sense of entitlement. I blame the Internetz.
      Multis: CPS-1, CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net, Naomi, TTX2
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Devices: Sentinel Gold / Ultracade uVC / JAMMAizer! / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile

    • Jammaizer using any brooks/ps360+/Cthulhu pcb as designed, then into a ps3 cable, then into the brooks ps3/4->Dreamcast adapter with its own internal memory, then into your Dreamcast.

      Boom done. :thumbsup:
      multis: cps* ttx1/2 gnet f3 mvs sega st-v/16b/24/c2/naomi(netboot) sys2x6 m72
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      projects: conversions, fixing Fighting Bujutsu
    • Money saving tip for Dreamcast owners that have VGA adapters



      If 1) you plan on getting the optional VGA hat, and 2) your Dreamcast VGA adapter is capable of 15khz output, you don't need to buy a SCART cable for the Dreamcast. Set your VGA adapter to 15khz output and connect your VGA adapater with a standard VGA cable to the VGA hat and away you go.

      Saves you a little dough. Wish I knew this because I just bought a Dreamcast SCART cable from retro-access to replace my cheap Chinese cable and don't need either cable now :/
    • ark125 wrote:

      I do not know what say. I am very sorry about it
      No worries, it was just confusing because I don't have anything to do with the design of the MC Cthulhu chip or firmware so I wouldn't be the one to add a feature like that. However you could ask Brook customer support if they plan to add Dreamcast save memory to the Retro Board. They may actually be able to do something like that.
      plus ça change,
      plus c'est la même chose,
      The more that things change,
      The more they stay the same.- RUSH- Circumstances
    • nonosto wrote:

      How to force 15hz with vga cable on DC?
      The key is to already own a VGA cable capable of outputting 15khz. Behar Bros Dreamcast adapters, TheFoo's SCART/VGA cable, and a few others.

      For you specifically, if your VGA adapter can't output 15khz, just buy the SCART cable. Your experience level is too low to be able to mod a VGA cable/adapter without someone hand holding through it. Again, for you specifically, just buy the SCART cable.
    • The Retro Fighters guys who are making upcoming Dreamcast controller said they couldn't find working VMU tech or code anywhere and all the 3rd party controller manufacturer's have long since pulled out on such manufacturing so they had to design and code from the ground up VMU support for their controller. Took them a long time apparently. I wouldn't wish it on anyone. Keep this product simple :thumbsup: Can't wait for the final presentation pictures!
    • Here are two more tips and my musings on 480i...........

      Tip 1
      I found in testing of JAMMAizer, I had issues with getting my MC PCB's to be recognized by my consoles. Turns out, my RJ45 cables had somehow went bad over time and I had to reterminate them (they are the original Akishops RJ45's purchased back in 2013 with the PS360+). If you are someone that plans on making your own console RJ45 cables, have the tools to do the job, here is a tip for you: make sure you use RJ45 jacks that have pass through.



      The reason being is that console controller cables may have less wires than the 8-pin/position RJ45 jack has. As you fab the console RJ45 cables, you have to skip over some positions. Thereby in doing so, some wire lengths end up being longer than others as you position them during insertion into the jack. If the RJ45 jack is closed off, the wires will bend preventing you from pushing the wires far enough through so that they can be pierced by the RJ45 pins while still being pushed in far enough so that the insulation can be pinned down securely into the jack. With the pass through RJ45 connectors, that is avoided:
      1. With a multimeter, determine which wire by color matches the console numbered sequential pins
        • Use this document as a guide
        • Then map out the RJ45 pins in sequence to the proper colored wire you've tested for using the same document
      2. Strip about an inch and a half of of the networking cable's insulation back
      3. Fan out the wires in the proper sequence between your thumb and forefinger
      4. Cut the wires at a 45 degree angle so that the longest wire is away from your body and the shorter cut is closest to your body
      5. Insert the fanned wires into the RJ45 jack, positioning the longest wire into the lowest numbered pin in the RJ45 jack first
        • Make sure if a pin is supposed to be NC (not connected) that you skip over that pin position
        • If you have to skip a position, curve back the wire by bending it inwards towards you, keeping the wires already in their pin position in place, while freeing up the next wire for positioning into the proper pin.
      6. Once positioned correctly, push the entire cable through so that the insulation is far enough in the jack and can be crimped down securing the cable to the jack
      7. Finally, crimp it and cut off the excess wires that have passed through the jack
      Console extension cables are like $2-3 bucks each from eBay but will take 2-3 weeks to arrive at your door from China. You can get 100pcs of the pass through RJ45 jacks for about $5, also from eBay. An RJ45 crimp tool costs $15 and can be used for other household chores and maybe even other arcade projects. If you don't already have the RJ45 cables, plan on getting the JAMMAizer, good idea to secure provisions for the RJ45 cables now so you'll be ready to go once you have JAMMAizer in your hands. The most time consuming process in all of this is testing continuity and mapping out the pins. Crimping/terminating takes about 45 seconds for each cable.

      Tip 2:
      Also, if you already have the classic Toodles MC Cthulhu PCB's, you can pull the pic chip off them and place them into Arthrimus's EZ MC Cthulhu PCB. Works great which I can confirm.

      Arthrimus's EZ PCB + the MC Cthulhu Upgrade represents the best price value for MC controller input by a slight margin (~$10 per unit shipped). The trade off is that there isn't going to be further development with the MC Cthulhu compatiblity or features (no VMU saves :D ). If you are holding out hope for further features and console compatibility, buy the Brook Retro board; just don't expect much down this line as there are only so many retro consoles out there. PS360+ is OOP and can obtained it in the after market. Advantage of the PS360+ is that it supports the Xbox 360, which the MC Cthulhu and the Brook Retro do not. Lots of great arcade-style titles on the Xbox 360 (Cave Shmups!).


      480i on an arcade CRT monitor:
      Looks great! Even on much older lower end US arcade monitors. PS2 and Dreamcast thus far look wonderful. Haven't hooked up the Xbox 360 yet, but I expect it to look fine. There are those that say that the Cave shmup titles look better at 240p due to more prevelant scanlines. But I think I'll just be happy experiencing these titles on a a real arcade cab and you will be too.

      EDIT: Here is a list of the monitors I've succesfully tested JAMMAizer's compatibility with. Should represent a good distribution of monitors that are out there. If there isn't one on the list (plus Arthrimus's test on the NNC/Toshiba Pure Flat and what ever djsheep tested), I wouldn't expect there to be monitor compability issues as JAMMAizer's video signal is as good as a genuince arcade PCB's. But of course, not every possible setup can be tested:
      • Sanwa PFX (NNC) - known to have sync issues with the Taito F3 and some arcade PCB's. No issues with JAMMAizer however
      • Nanao MS8 (Astro City)
      • Nanao MS9 (Egret II & New Astro City)
      • Nanao MS2930 (Blast City)
      • Neotec NT-2515C (Area 51/Maximum Force cab)
      • Neotec NT-33C (Dynamo Showcase cab)
      • Wells Gardner K7400 (Atomiswave US Upright)
      • Wells Gardner K7000 25" (several cabs)

      The post was edited 2 times, last by acblunden2 ().