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Escarioth

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Hi everyone :)

My friend have a dynamite Duke cab (original ? hmmm hard to say)
It's been working for years but recently a puff of smoke went from the cab and then no more game.

He put the cab in my garage back home so we can get a better view at the problem.
after a while, we decided to try the game. i hear sound, PCB is not dead but no screen,

i noticed the fuse was black...so i think my first step will be to change it.
but why did it blow out.... can humidity/dust be the problem ?

thanks :3
 

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the fuse failed because of an overload - probably a shorted transistor.
what monitor is it?
 
I'M not home right now but if i remember correctly
it was Zennith i think i saw :/

could confirm back tonight
 
Fuse going out wont create smoke, not even when the glass fuse explodes. If there was smoke and smell of burned electronics something else went for sure. Take a close look around the PCB and components if you can see any marks of short-circuit or burned area. Measure the transistors.
 
Well also another thing i noticed was that the psu cannot be adjust...

And gets 5.37v / 13.8v.

I think its a bit too high.
That psu looks pretty old. I advised him to get a new one. Any good place in canada to get a good one.?
 
We kinda debated it yesterday. He kept saying it was ok that i was a bit stressing the whole thing too far (i refused to plug one of my own pcb in there if volts were not lower for test)

im pretty sure its too high for his pcb's healt...
 
Since your PCB works, that tells you your wiring in your cab is correct, nothing shorted. It's isolated to a failure in your monitor chassis. Your monitor is the Zenith's version of the 19K7000. Also known as a K7000A.

There is a flowchart for the K7000 monitor. If you are lucky, it is just a shorted HOT (which is very typical and a $4 repair if you do it yourself, blown diodes, and/or cold soldered restistors. If you are unlucky, it is the flyback. Flybacks for the K7000A are impossible to source and you are pretty much looking at buying a new monitor. The neck on the K7000A chassis and K7000 are different, so you cannot simply replace the chassis with Wells Gardner's version of the 19K7000.

Anyway, start with the flowchart. Here is how you measure the B+ for that chassis. The next steps are finding where are all parts called out in the flowchart are on the chassis. Slight learning curve, but if you have the tools (soldering iron and patience), repairing a K7000 is pretty darn easy.
 
yeah, i wouldn't leave a pcb at 5.3 for an extended time. also it can change from pcb to pcb so it actually might be fine for some games? it really just depends on the load/draw and the design of the PSU.
 
open the psu and look at the ajusting pot.
i'v seen those with cracked soldering and even just smashed because they get bumped by people.
 
Pappy's Smokehouse in St. Louis is the best BBQ I ever had.

Screenshot_20190815-101806__01.jpg
 
We just moved to St Louis, so I’ll go give it a try. Any particular location or are they all the same?
 
Just the one on Olive Street. I don't know how many they have. Sweetfire is good too, and I wanted to try Bogart's but the line was always out the door.

Speaking of which, if you come at the wrong time, Pappy's has a line out the door too.

I didn't get to check out all the arcades in town, but The Silver Ballroom was pretty good for pinball. CP pinball is massive (like 70 machines out there).
 
Anybody that’s lookin to make some awesome bbq at home check out the heatermeter. It’s a diy bbq controller(PID) that uses a raspberry pi. I’ve got mine setup with a pit probe(type-k thermocouple) and 2 food probes. Pretty awesome and fun to build. No more setting alarms to check temps/adjust dampers.
 
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