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FYI, I would steer away of the 'official' PSUs. I personally have had two examples of them going 'pop' due to leaky caps shorting things out...

GadgetUK has a YouTube video out on the issue.

Of course, other people will have different experiences, but worth considering given the age of these things.

Great piece by @FirebrandX and very useful before you consider a 3rd party replacement!
 
Yep. Had mine blow out just the same.
Guess a cap kit is in order...
 
Hello,

I'm looking to buy a backup PSU for my AES system.
It seems the model should be a PRO-POW. However there are multiple types (UL/PAL..).
Is there any differences? (I assume that depending my current region I have to go with PRO-POW-PAL.

Moreover all model NEO-O are JAP (I thought mine was EUR before checking in details).

Thanks.

P.S : I attached photos for more details.
 

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Seconding retrogamesupply...
Also, I have experienced 2 AES PSUs blowing up due to leaking capacitors.
Ditch them or recap them.
 
You should open it and look inside, the label maybe wrong or the AES might have a factory update. See the link at the top to understand. I wouldn't buy a PSU until you see what you actually have internally.
 
I also recommend retrogamesupply, had a few power supplies from them and while they’re not rated (voltage, amperage) differentltc fiom others, ivev not had any issues. So I continue to ude them.


.... pledge excuses typos, I’ve cut the yop of my sodding thumb off.
 
It's recommended before buying a AES PSU, regardless of what the bottom of your console says, that you actually open it up and take a look inside (as recommended in FirebrandX's guide).

Recently I had an issue where I bought a replacement PSU (5v/3A) for a "POW2" console, only to realise that my AES had some strange "NEO-POW2" PSU rated at 11V/700mA that isn't documented anywhere online (it does exist, I own the original PSU). The "PRO"-POW2 and "NEO"-POW2 are two entirely different supplies, so it turns out. Thankfully the seller realised his recommended PSU replacement guide on his site was incomplete and sent me a replacement 9V/2A PSU that works perfectly now.

I recently replaced all my original power bricks on Japanese consoles with aftermarket ones and couldn't be happier to get rid of the step down converter, which I only use for my Sega Saturn now.

I looked down on this for the longest time wanting to keep stuff as original as possible, but replacing external bricks with ones that work on local voltage is a must IMO -- They don't heat up and I believe are safer and more efficient to run.
 
first run of aes use LM2579 power transistor you can use +7 to +40volt in
newest release like 3.4 3.6 use a 1442 need 5volt in
 
Thanks for sharing this @Darksoft . I needed a new PSU for my AES as the one I have was making a whining noise. I couldn’t find a 3rd party one that accepted 100v Japan voltage and replacement OEM ones I could find were half the cost of what I paid for the AES in the first place with no guarantee of not having the same issue. My search ended here and I got one ordered. Thanks!
 
Thanks for sharing but I am still a little confused on my console. Mine looks different from the images on the firebrandx site. Which psu do I need? Not sure if this was a board swap console?
AES_Back.jpgAES.jpg
 
Hi all!

Hope you are doing well. I recently got an AES which worked fine the very first day I got it and then it gave up on me, I'm using a Triad WSX050-4000-R as suggested by firebrandx but there seems to be something wrong with the voltage inside the console. Here's my readings:

Power on (no cart inserted):
  • The Triad WSX050-4000-R outputs 5.14v
  • The 5.14v from the power supply reach the left leg of the switch when it's open
  • After powering the boards, I'm measuring 4.91 to 4.93v coming out of the switch and into the transistor.
  • The center leg of the transistor is measuring 4.86 to 4.88v, got same results when measuring the big 1000uf cap that follows the transistor.
  • The Z80 is receiving 4.83v which, I believe, might be a bit low?
Power on (cart present):
  • Voltage on the power jack goes down to 4.93v.
  • 4.73v coming out of the power transistor that follows the power switch.
  • 4.72 reaching the Z80.

I understand that going lower than 4.9 might cause issues and resets. What I'm getting is a glitchy bootup screen and then the console resets after around 15 seconds or so.

So, I'm trying to understand if this is an issue with the Triad power supply, the power circuit on my AES or anything else. Have you had a similar issue with a Triad PSU?

I've attached a picture of the early model board I have.

Thanks!
 

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As you have your AED open., check what the 5V look like in any of the chips. That should be your reference.
 
As you have your AED open., check what the 5V look like in any of the chips. That should be your reference.

Thanks Darksoft, I measured 4.72 reaching the Z80 when the NeoSD pro is inserted. My understanding is that going under 4.9v = trouble but I wonder whether anyone here have succeeded in using a NeoSD pro with a Triad 5V 4A?

Thanks.
 
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