Hi guys, I’m looking into getting a Sega NAC or NNC with Toshiba monitor. I’ve heard some people say that low res is better on the NAC because of the MS9 and some say that the NNC with the Toshiba is better or just as good. Looking for some opinions. Thanks.
It's highly subjective and I would say just try to see both in person. Both are top of their class chassis and tubes. If you care about a curved front glass that's a determining factor... otherwise you won't be upset with either.Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Centipede, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, ID3 Single, MKII, Zaxxon, Galaga, T2, Hang-On, Silver Strike Bowling, Space Shuttle Pinball
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Ms9 is my favorite nanao, can't beat the picture. Put one into a naomi cab years and years ago and it was fantastic in low res mode.
It looks more amazing in medium res mode!
Sadly getting hard to find them without burn, monitors mostly found loose now is the sanwa's, the ms9 is better than any sanwa IMO.
Some people like 15k on an LCD It’s subjective, but IMO, if you’re comparing a properly calibrated, good strong tube and chassis, then an MS8/MS9 will be better.
The tosh PF is very sharp. Depending on your taste, that’s either a good or a bad thing.
The 15k picture on a Nanao MS29-30/31, tosh PF or tosh PB7534 (windy 2) are all very good. If you can find a cabinet with a really nice monitor, then any of them will look great.
I have them both side by side and it is a matter of preference.
Personally I like both, the Tosh PF looks a bit sharper and scanlines are more defined like the high end BVM monitors.
MS9 looks as sharp as it gets without loosing that ‘natural’ touch to it.My Multicart labels for sale here:
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Love the MS9. My favourite monitor. I had a MS8 briefly in a regular Astro and it didn't agree with me. The colours didn't pop as much and the scanlines were stronger than the MS9 and bugged my eyes out.
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All preference. NNC produces a much sharper image and has a flat screen. MS9 has a softer image and a curved screen.
Being in the US, I grew up playing on uncalibrated US woodies that had soft images on them. Also, as arcade monitors start to die, they would produce a progressively softer image. I couldn't stand a soft image. When I found a cab in a location that had the game I liked playing on a sharp monitor, I would go out of my way to travel there to play it. Usually, arcade operators would leave a cheap cabinet with a crappy soft monitor at a local liquor store or laundry mat. But if I wanted to play on an arcade machine with a sharp image, I'd have to find a really nice restaurant or an arcade. These tended to have better machines with sharper arcade monitors.
But again, it is all preference. 15khz on an MS9 is awesome. Just different.
Other things to consider is that an NNC is a JVS cab, so you'll have some additional expenses if you want to connect 15khz PCB's to it.
MS9 every time.
The MS9 is my favorite chassis, and the tube generally tied to it (Toshiba A68KJU96X) is a fantastic tube. The same tube can be found in the MS8-29, Toshiba D29CR55, and some Hitachi GMK-xxx chassis. I have seen a Sanwa Z21C variant on the same tube too.
The tube has a lot to do with the quality of the image, especially for focus. The better focused the beam, the more precisely drawn the lines are. The A68KJU96X is a great tube, in my experience.
The MS9 has a nice little buffer/amp right near the inputs, and I have found that this amp has performed really well for my 15k sources, as far as not producing ringing artifacts and preserving sharp edges. The MS-2930 has the same amplifier, and there is a rare MS8-29 variant called MS8-29FN22 that has the RGB section from the MS9 on a daughtercard (and subsequently has a remote board that more resembles the MS9). This is the only MS8-29 I'd consider keeping.
Over the MS8, the MS9 adds a unity Contrast adjustment, which controls gain for all three channels. In addition, the gain controls are centered such that they don't move the bias / black level; in comparison, on the MS8, raising gain lowers effective bias for a channel, so changing the total display intensity while maintaining a consistent greyscale is a chore.