Sega Versus City Billboard System Repair Log

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    • Sega Versus City Billboard System Repair Log

      Begin repair log for Sega Versus City Billboard.

      July '19:


      Billboard unit arrived "untested" from China after 2nd attempt to post. Very grimy and grungy.

      Sep '19:

      The AQB2A1-ZT3/6VDC-ND Solid State Relays on the power board look questionable, and replacement parts have been located and can be ordered if necessary: Sensata-Crydom CN240A05. In addition, two Blast City billboard power boards have been purchased as replacements if necessary. They are in much better condition and share the same PCB layout.

      Used naval jelly to remove strange corrosion near C22 which removed some solder mask on some traces. On retrospect I probably shouldn't have done that but the continuity tests in some spots now work when they previously didn't. Removed tape covering Z80 processor and gave the board a wash with Krud Kutter, rinsing it off with water and a nylon brush. Removed a great deal of grime but also removed markings on both the Sega 315-5338A chip and labels. For historical purposes and possible reproduction, I am going to list the numbers here:


      • Sega 315-5338A
        • (Lot Code?) 9541 Z53
        837-11854 (Billboard PCB number, label under CN1)

      • 95AP 1026 (label left of Sega logo)
      • 951101.07982E (label above CN5)
      Ordered replacement SHARP LH5268AD-10LL for IC4. Curiously the silk-screened label lists the part as MB8464A-15LL. Replacement was ordered because the labeling on the IC had been completely worn off.

      Ordered replacement 8-DIP switch as none of the switches will move, most likely due to rust/corrosion/grime built up inside.
      Ordered replacement caps for C1, C2, C3, and C4. Original caps marked as Sanyo 220μF 16V 105°C S.E.3N CZ. Replacement model is Suncon (Sanyo's current name) 220μF 16V 105°C S.E.5D CZ.

      Removal of IC4 did not go well. Traces were damaged in attempting to desolder. The lack of proper equipment and recklessly using equipment I have is to blame. Using desoldering braids only removed solder from bottom half of board but there was enough residual solder that remained on the top half, where the IC package is located, that the chip would not come out. The legs were resoldered with fresh solder and a heated solder sucker was used. A rotating motion in an attempt to melt the solder with the heated sucker caused damage to the solder mask and traces. Ultimately much solder was removed the the IC would not budge. In an attempt to pry the IC package from the top, the pry tool broke cap C12 in half. Not wanting to damage traces further, I brought out a heat gun and using an IC pry-bar the chip was dislocated from the board.



      Ordered replacement for IC12. Very strange ceramic caps from Mouser: Taiyo Yuden UP050B104K-A-BZ.
      The crystal oscillator also looks to be in pretty bad shape and have located a replacement part on Alibaba. UPDATE: No parts in stock. Unsurprising...
      The DIP28 Retention Contact was also damaged from contact with the soldering iron and I am considering replacing it as well.

      All things considered, I lack the proper training and equipment to handle this type of rework. Rework that wasn't needed I might add. In wanting to replace an IC for cosmetic purposes I have created permanent cosmetic alterations to the board itself. Ironic.

      Going forward I will be contacting Ken at irepairsega to see if he can fix this mess. His site says he does trace repair and I would prefer to have this in good, experienced hands rather than my own. I will collect all the parts I wish to have replaced and send them with the board to Ken to have him rework. I am a hobbyist at best and replacing capacitors and soldering arduino parts may be within my scope, but these professionally fabricated PCBs are a bit out of my league.

      Will update when I sent a package to Ken.
      My Model2 hardware interest goes back over a decade! 08/05 - Unused character found in Sonic the Fighters | 01/06 - Memory Exploration | 01/07 - All findings published on Sonic CulT

      The post was edited 1 time, last by biggestsonicfan ().

    • So that's why you wanted those caps!

      I once wrecked a very rare PCB while attempting to desolder numerous ICs because I was inexperienced and poorly equipped. It dissuaded from attempting any further repairs for quite a while. When I returned to attempting repairs, I vowed not to make the same mistakes again.

      If you want to safely work on arcade PCBs, particularly the multi-layer PCBs that became commonplace from the mid 80s onwards, you really should invest in a temperature controlled soldering iron and a vacuum desoldering tool. The Hakko FX-888D and the Hakko FR-301 respectively come highly recommended.

      There's a series of videos by Pace Inc. that cover soldering and desoldering which are very informative:



      Find some scrap PCBs to practice desoldering DIP components, preferably nothing valuable (no arcade stuff!) Given time, you'll improve and will very rarely cause any damage that can't easily be fixed.
    • Phil Bennett wrote:

      So that's why you wanted those caps!
      Yup! They arrived and look identical, albeit a little bit smaller. Not by much though.

      I do have a temperature controlled soldering iron, but the solder sucker has no control. It just gets hot, REALLY hot, and it works well with the things I solder and take apart and put together as trinkets, but it's very unreliable in the damage it may cause. Most of the time I am trying to press the sucker against the pin and solder, and nothing happens, so I rotate it around a little bit just to get the solder flowing, and it damages the mask. Ugh.

      The thing is, I don't do this often, nor do I have much money to spend, especially after all the repair components I have bought to restore this stupid arcade cabinet I now own... I HAVEN'T EVEN GOT IT BACK UP AND RUNNING YET, UGH! What I'm doing is mainly repairing things that are in poor condition, caps, cleaning things, etc... but this billboard system is a completely separate unit, not even built for this cabinet. There's even no guaranteed that this will work if repaired. RIP.
      My Model2 hardware interest goes back over a decade! 08/05 - Unused character found in Sonic the Fighters | 01/06 - Memory Exploration | 01/07 - All findings published on Sonic CulT
    • The last of the parts needed for the board's repair arrived today. At least all the parts I am capable of finding online anyway.... I contacted Ken and got an RMA number and shipped it out. I hope the repaired traces look okay and not like bodges. Even if they are it's better than what I can do/nothing.

      There's still no guarantee that this will work lol.
      My Model2 hardware interest goes back over a decade! 08/05 - Unused character found in Sonic the Fighters | 01/06 - Memory Exploration | 01/07 - All findings published on Sonic CulT
    • Got word from Ken today that all parts have been replaced and traces fixed! Only took the 1 hour minimum plus shipping back, I'm very pleased! Ken applied power to it and says it seems to power on without any problem, indicating the 315-5338A is working fine. Once it gets back and then I get back from a week out of town, I am going to try to fudge together a working adapter to power the unit from it's power pcb, although those have not been altered in any way yet with it's suspicious looking caps. Then again, it should "work" without replaced caps, it's just unknown to what degree.
      My Model2 hardware interest goes back over a decade! 08/05 - Unused character found in Sonic the Fighters | 01/06 - Memory Exploration | 01/07 - All findings published on Sonic CulT
    • It's been a while since I got the main billboard pcb back from Ken, and I finally decided to work on the rest of it.

      I gave the wood plank everything screws into a very good cleaning, then a light sanding just to get the last bit of embedded grime off it.

      I removed all the caps from the power supply pcb and 3 resistors. The resistors themselves were cooked on the outside so I figured it might be a good idea to replace them. 1K Ohm with 5% tolerance:



      The PSU looks super clean now compared to the first post:



      A 120v to 100v adapter was purchased from arcadepartsandrepair just to ensure I wasn't overvolting the system. Remember, this was designed for a Versus City cabinet in Japan. I've heard 120v can work fine on Japanese appliances, but I decided it would be better to be safe than sorry.

      A new cable was made that connects from CN3 of the SSR board to CN1 of the PSU board. While I don't know what the cables would look like in an actual Versus City cabinet, I did my best to color and gauge match the cables according to the manual/schematic:



      The next step was to attach the 7-SEG LED arrays to it and power it on:



      A lamp cord was attached to the transformer for several reasons: it has a switch, it only uses a hot and neutral line with no ground, it was very cheap at the hardware store.

      Turn it on and VOILA!



      I also intend to refurbish the 7-SEG displays by removing the deteriorating paper around them and replacing that with rubber and also replacing the glass with some fine acrylic.
      Images
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      My Model2 hardware interest goes back over a decade! 08/05 - Unused character found in Sonic the Fighters | 01/06 - Memory Exploration | 01/07 - All findings published on Sonic CulT