Pinned How to Net-boot NAOMI/Tri-Force/Chihiro Using Pi-Force Tools

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    • How to Net-boot NAOMI/Tri-Force/Chihiro Using Pi-Force Tools

      This guide is for those who have heard about Net-Booting and want to know what to buy and how to make it work. As with anything there are risks involved and I take no responsibility so precede at your own risk.

      If any information here is found to be in error, or if pertinent information is missing, please let me know and I will do my best to correct it. Thank you

      If you have questions DO NOT PM ME. Please post a reply in this thread, so that others with similar questions may benefit from the answer.

      What is Net-Booting?
      The NAOMI arcade console (and later the NAOMI 2, Tri-Force and Chihiro arcade consoles) allows for the swapping of games by swapping out the cartridge similar to home console. Part way through the NAOMI's life Sega added the option to load software onto the console from a PC connected to it through a local area network. This requires the use of a special cartridge called a "Net-DIMM" board that plugs in like a normal cartridge but includes an Ethernet port for communication with the PC. Eventually arcade hackers leveraged this, allowing us to load up most games on these systems using this mechanism as opposed to using the original cartridges or discs. When we load a game over the network using a Net-DIMM board it's called "Net-Booting".

      What is Pi-Force Tools?
      There is an official piece of software made by Sega for net-booting (known as transfergame.exe), however an open source alternative was made for the Tri-Force hardware using Python, originally named "Tri-Force-Tools". Despite originally designed for the Tri-Force it works for other Net-DIMM compatible consoles. Since the software doesn't need a powerful computer, and using this system with a PC is rather cumbersome, some clever individuals had the idea to use a cheap Raspberry Pi computer for the task. "Pi-Force-Tools" is a blending of the original Tri-Force-Tools software name with the Raspberry Pi hardware name. There are other versions out there as well such as the NAO-Pi which is a blending of NAOMI and Raspberry Pi. But for this guide we'll be specifically covering Pi-Force Tools.

      What Games are compatible?
      Not all games are compatible, but the vast majority are. The NAOMI and NAOMI 2 supported game list is fairly substantial. This chart lists the games that are available for Net-Boot as well as which games support hot-switching between games, which games will work with witch I/O boards and which games will work with which BIOS region.

      At the time of this posting Tri-Force and Chihiro can Net-Boot the following:
      Tri-Force: F-Zero AX, Mario Kart Arcade GP, Mario Kart Arcade GP 2, Virtua Striker 2002, Virtua Striker 4 v2006

      Chihiro: Crazy Taxi High Roller, Ghost Squad, Gundam Battle Operating Simulator, Ollie King, Out Run 2, Out Run 2 SP Special Tours, Sega Golf Club Version 2006, The House Of The Dead 3, Virtua Cop 3, Wangan Midnight - Maximum Tune, Wangan Midnight - Maximum Tune 2

      What do you need to make it work?
      1. A working NAOMI, NAOMI2, Tri-Force or Chihiro setup.
      This includes the arcade console board, a compatible JVS I/O board, and a JVS power supply. Note: If you're using a Capcom I/O board to provide power from a normal Arcade PSU you will need to upgrade to a JVS PSU that can connect directly to the game board. The Capcom I/O can't pass through enough power to run both the Game Board and the Net-Dimm board otherwise. Best case it wont boot, worst case it will boot and overload/blow-out your I/O board.

      2. A Compatible Net-DIMM board
      Not necessary if you've got a Tri-Force Type 3, or a Chihiro Type 3 as this board is built in already. Otherwise, there are some variations you need to be aware of before buying.

      Variations: Net-DIMM boards are not to be confused with a "regular" DIMM board which lacks the Ethernet port and cannot Net-Boot games. Reguar DIMM boards are a lot more common and lot cheaper so make sure you verify it has an Ethernet port before you buy it.

      Memory: You will also need to make sure it has enough Memory to support your games. Most will have 256MB which will cover all but 5 games for NAOMI and NAOMI 2 (see the aforementioned chart). For those 5 games as well as Tri-Force and Chihiro you will need a 512MB Net-DIMM. I believe there is only 1 game on Chihiro that requires 1GB. Official Sega DIMM boards that have more memory will typically have an oval sticker stating "512MB" or "1GB". Smaller capacity boards can be upgraded. It uses regular PC style Memory DIMMs (hence why it's called a DIMM board). Which can be upgraded.

      Firmware: I should note that your Net-DIMM needs to have firmware revision 3.03 or higher to be net-boot compatible. I don't believe any Net-DIMM board shipped with firmware below 3.03 anyway so it's a moot point. However it doesn't hurt to upgrade to a newer revision. Upgrades can be performed over an eithernet connection the same way you'd load a game. 4.01 is the highest official release which added support for the official Sega Compat-Flash adapter. 4.02 is an unofficial hacked release that added support for un-official Compact-Flash adapters. There are other higher numbered hacked releases as well. FWIW I'm running 3.17 on one of my NAOMI2 Net-Boot setups without any problems.

      3. A Compatible BIOS
      All BIOS revisions for the Tri-Force and Chihiro should allow for Net-Booting. On the NAOMI I believe you need BIOS Rev F or later and on the NAOMI2 you'll need Rev A or later. However I recommend using the latest Muli-BIOS. That would be Rev H for NAOMI and Rev C for NAOMI2 you can get that here. If you don't have the means to burn your own BIOS ROM you can usually find them for sale for a reasonable price in the usual places. The multi-bios also allows for region switching using the DIP switches on the NAOMI's filterboard, which is a very handy feature to have.

      4. A Compatible Raspberry Pi
      At the time of this writing, Pi-Force-Tools supports R-Pi versions 1, 2 and 3 (the amount of ram and model type A or B shouldn't matter) The Pi-Zero is NOT supported.

      5. A Raspberry-Pi Compatible SD card.
      The R-Pi Version 1 uses a full-sized SD card, the Versions 2 and 3 use a Micro-SD card. You'll need a minimum 4GB card to use Pi-Force-Tools, Though you'll want at good sized card if you want to fit all games on one card. The entire list of NAOMI and NAOMI2 games fit comfortably on a single 32GB You'll need to bump up to a 64GB if you want to include Chihiro, Tri-Force and NAOMI all on one card.
      The R-Pi has good compatibility with most name-brand cards but here is a good list of tested cards.

      6. A Power Cable for the Raspberry-Pi
      The R-Pi is powered by a Micro-USB port. They sell wall-wart style power adapters specifically for the R-Pi, however a much more elegant solution on a NAOMI is to cut one end off of a Micro-USB cable and crimp on a 4-pin JST NH style connector. this will allow you to power the R-Pi using the 5V pin header on the NAOMI's filter-board or on the 5V output header found on most Sega JVS I/O boards.

      7. A Cross-over Cable.
      The Net-DIMM board needs to connect to the Raspberry-Pi over a valid network. Theoretically you could use a single R-Pi to net boot multiple consoles on the same network. This guide wont go into that. In the case where you'd connect the R-Pi directly to the Net-DIMM board we'll need a Cross-Over cable. Regular Ethernet cables cannot be used without a networking switch between the R-Pi and the Net-DIMM board.

      8. An Ada-Fruit "Pi-Plate" Character LCD plus keypad
      Normally a R-Pi connects to a Monitor and is controlled with a keyboard or mouse via the USB ports, however Ada-Fruit makes a small plug-in module that stacks on top of the R-Pi and adds a small character LCD as well as a few buttons. It's using this simple and cheap interface that we can select which game we'd like to send to the Net-DIMM board for booting without the need for a separate monitor or a keyboard or mouse. You can buy this on the Ada-Fruit web-store.

      I should warn you that this comes UNASSEMBLED, you'll be expected to solder it together yourself. It's a very easy job to solder together. All through-hole parts with nice big solder pads. Designed for

      9. A Zero-Key (optional, but highly recommended)
      All DIMM boards have a socket on the top for a security key. Normally a official Game released on GD-ROM or Compact Flash will also include a matching security key in order to decrypt and boot the game. With a Net-Boot setup this key is not required as long as the Server (in this case your Raspberry-Pi) is connected to the Net-DIMM board. Any hiccup or break in this connection will cause the game to stop running (sometimes it just seems to fail for no reason). With a proper key in place the Net-DIMM board can be disconnected from the server without any problems. A Zero-Key is a special "universal" security key that works with any already decrypted game ROM (such as those you'll be using for net-booting, or with a CF adapter). They're fairly inexpensive and an easy way to make your setup more reliable. These are more difficult to burn yourself but not impossible. Most people who sell BIOS chips typically also sell Zero-Keys. There are two types of Zero Keys, one used by NAOMI and NAOMI2, and the other used by Tri-Force and Chihiro.
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      "Information wants to be free"
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      The post was edited 7 times, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • Setting Up the Net-DIMM board
      For NAOMI/NAOMI2 and Type-1 Tri-Force and Chihiro

      You'll want to start by checking to make sure that your Net-DIMM board is setup for Net-Booting. If you have a key-chip installed start by removing that. Once that's out remove the metal shield from the top of the Net-DIMM board. You'll need to loosen a few turns (but not remove) the screw centered on the left edge at the top, then remove the other screw on the top, then the two screws on either side of the 50-pin connector. The shielding should come right off, if it's is hung up on the left side then try tipping the board to the left, failing that you may need to loosen the screw on the left a bit more.

      Once the cover is off make sure that the Jumpers are set as follows:
      JP1: 1+2
      JP2: 1+2
      JP3: 2+3
      This can also be seen in the pic below.

      Now is also the perfect time to install your Zero key if you have one. Make sure the alignment notch on the chip points down as shown on in the picture below. When you insert it you'll want to hook a finger around the back side of the board for support as it is very flimsy and unsupported. Without doing this you could risk damaging this board if you apply too much pressure when inserting the chip. That weird metal hook under the shield is designed to hook under this board for support so that it is not damaged when a key chip is installed. Without the cover in place there is no support, which is why I recommend using your finger.

      Once the jumpers are set and your Zero key is installed you can re-install the shield. If you're having trouble getting it to sit flat look through the key chip hole and make sure the loose metal piece is hooked under the PCB and not on top of it. Try tipping the board left or loosening the screw slightly. Failing that you can use a small screw driver to push it off so it hooks under the board. Just be careful not to scratch or damage the PCB.

      For Type-3 Tri-Force
      Start by removing the blue cover by removing the 2 screws along each side along the corners, and then sliding the cover off in the direction of the rounded edge.
      Once the cover is off you'll need to find Dip-Switch 2 near the security key socket and set it to the "ON" position.

      For Type-3 Chihiro
      Start by removing the top cover by removing the 4 screws on the top.
      Once the cover is off you'll want to look for Jumper 9 on the Internal Media-Board (This is the larger board below the upper network board) and set it to 2+3 (Thanks to @winteriscoming for this information)

      Configuring your Console
      With the properly setup Net-DIMM board installed you'll want to power up your Console. You should see it boot up to a message saying that it can't find the Gateway, this is good. If it doesn't see your Net-DIMM board or you have some other error you may have a BIOS or some other hardware problem.

      Next we need to setup your Console to connect to the Raspberry Pi. Push the Test Button to enter the Service Menu. As long as the Net-DIMM board is properly installed and your BIOS supports Net-Booting you should see and option for Network Settings, select that option.

      Once in here you'll want to set your Network Type to "ETHER" then your IP address to and your Mask should be set to We use this IP address as that is the default address that Pi-Force Tools is set to use. Once these have been set, power off your console; it is ready to Net-Boot.

      Setting Up The Raspberry-Pi with Pi-Force Tools
      To assemble your Adafruit Pi-Plate LCD/keypad there is an excellent guide on the Adafruit website.

      The official repository for Pi-Force-Tools can be found on GitHub. However what you really need is to download the SD card Image. This can "burned" to the card in windows using a program called Win32DiskImager. This is how most Raspberry Pi images are placed on the SD card. The process is as simple as selecting the image and selecting the SD card, but even still there are lots of guides. There are guides for Linux as well.

      Once the image has been burned You should be able to install it in your Raspberry Pi with the Adafruit Pi-Plate and plug in power to check that your Pi-Plate and SD card image is functioning properly. Chances are you'll need to adjust the contrast to see anything, also note that it could take 20-30 seconds to fully boot.

      Once you know your image is good and the Pi-Plate is functioning you'll need to expand the partition to fill the whole SD card. In Windows you can do this by using a program like Partition Manager. You'll want to move the EXT4 partition to the end of the card and then expand the FAT partition to use up all the remaining un-allocated space. (if anyone knows of a good guide for this please post up and I'll link it here). In Linux this can be done using a program called G-Parted.

      *** IMPORTANT *** It's come to my attention that The Pi1 and Pi1B+ use different port number than the Pi2 and Pi3 such that Pi force tools wont see the Pi Plate unless it's changed. If you're using the latest Pi Force tools with Pi2 or 3 you should be fine, but if you're running the newer Pi Force Tools on an older Pi then you may need to modify the port numbering specified in the header of the .py files

      Now that you have more space you can load up your ROM files. These should be in .bin format and you'll want to place them in the "roms" folder. I personally make multiple roms folders based on control type so I have a roms_verical, a roms_driving, a roms_gun etc. I rename the folder on the card depending on what I want to boot, this way I'm only ever scrolling through a list of titles I can actually play with my current cab configuration. Alternatively you could burn multiple cards, one for each setup, or just stick them all in one big folder #YOLO :P .

      Launching Games
      Make sure you've got your SD Card Installed in the Raspberry-Pi along with the Adafruit Pi-Plate. Then connect it to the Ethernet Port on the Net-DIMM board using your cross-over cable. It doesn't matter what order you power up your Console or your Raspberry Pi; the Console will wait for a signal. Once the Raspberry Pi has booted up you can use the up and down arrows on the Pi-Plate to scroll through the games in the roms folder then use the select button to choose a game to send to the Pi. If you push the right button there are a few troubleshooting options you can scroll through such as pinging your Net-DIMM board or changing the "destination" IP address to connect to. Pushing the left button will return you back to the list of games. Not Seeing any games in your list? I'll cover that in the next section.

      Once a game has been selected the loading process can take a while. The Console should reboot to a loading message while Pi-Force Tools sends the game image, once that's done the console will reboot a second time and confirm the game image that it received. Once that's done it will reboot a 3rd time and the game will load.

      At any time you should be able to select a new game on your Raspberry-Pi and send it. It should force the console to reboot and load the new game. However many games seem to have problems with this and will freeze or simply fail to respond to the new game being sent. There is much better reliability if you push the test button on the console to enter the system menu before loading a new game, but unfortunately even that doesn't help with some games.

      Modifying Pi-Force Tools Game Names/Adding Games that don't show up/Changing the IP address

      On your SD card there is a folder called "piforcetools" and inside that folder is a file called "" If you edit this file in any plain text editor (such as notepad.exe) In this file you'll see lots of code but you'll also see a list of ROM file names and associated titles. If you're not seeing your game in the list after you've added it to the roms folder then chances are that file name is not on the file here. I would recommend keeping your roms named the same as the file names listed here, so that if you ever upgrade pi-force-tools you wont have to edit in your custom names all over again. You can of course add new files to this list as well simply following the format of the existing files listed.

      There is also a list of IP addresses here, this is the list of addresses that you can select from the "change destination" option when running Pi-Force-Tools. The first IP address in the list will be the default that is always selected when you boot your Raspberry-Pi, and the other options are the ones that you can change too once the Raspberry-Pi has been booted.

      Hopefully this guide was helpful. If you have any questions, find any errors, or feel like some pertinent information is missing then please let me know and I'll do my best to answer.
      "Information wants to be free"
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      The post was edited 5 times, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • some questions I received over PM:

      Twistedsymphony wrote:

      "Theoretically you could use a single R-Pi to net boot multiple consoles on the same network. This guide wont go into that"
      - I understand not including in the guide, but I do want to do this with my setup and utilize a single Raspberry Pi 2 to net boot my Naomi2, Chihiro, and Triforce machines. Can you provide some detail as to how I would be able to net boot multiple consoles on the same network with asingle Pi 2? They would be utilized in the same cabinet with a 6-1 switcher - so far works fine, but would like to net boot all of them with the single Pi 2. Thanks!
      Instead of using a Cross-Over cable you would use a Network switch (any generic networking switch should do) with regular Ethernet cables, which thing plugs into which port on the switch doesn't matter.

      Then you would assign each of your consoles a different IP address in the Network Settings menu. so in the guide we used you could still use that for one of your consoles and then assign the others to,,, etc.

      Once that's done on your Raspberry Pi you push the right direction button and then select the "change destination" option to select the IP address of the console you want to send the game to, then you push the left direction button to select the game to send.

      Once the Raspberry Pi is done with the "Sending..." message and returns to the game list, you can select a new destination and repeat the process for the other consoles.

      You also definitely need a Zero Key for each console if you do this.

      The Zero PIC for the net dimm for Naomi/Chihiro/Triforce - do they all use the SAME PIC? I have seen some advertised for the Naomi and wondering if they would also work for the Chihiro and Triforce or if they are different PICs altogether.
      I'm honestly not 100% certain on this. I believe the same Zero Key should work on all of them. (if someone else can confirm this then please let me know). EDIT: According to Mitsurugi-w the Tri-Froce and Chihiro use a different zero key than than NAOMI/NAOMI 2 (but the Tri-Force and the Chihiro both use the same key). It's also been stated elsewhere that the Type 1 Tri-Force and Chihiro may be able to use the NAOMI Zero Key but that the Type 3 Tri-Force and Chihiro need the key specific to the Tri-Force/Chihiro.

      I am also trying to implement the hard reset hardware from Derek on the forums - do you need a different Pi-Force tools version to allow this to happen and to have those games (Atomiswave and a few Naomi) to reset after changing games instead of doing the test menu trick? I saw one advertised on another forum and wondering if you have any knowledge of it in trying to get all the games to reset via net boot.
      Currently no version of Pi-Force-Tools is programmed to send a reset signal. To make Derek's hardware reset work you would need to modify the program to change output states on one of the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins. Most pins are already in use by the Ada-Fruit Pi-Plate so you'd also need to identify a pin that's still available.

      having looked at the code briefly it seems the file is nothing more than a menu that runs the Pi-Plate, once a game is selected it launches the file with the appropriate parameters for the game and IP address that you selected. So the modification for hard reset would need to be implemented within the file. This wouldn't be a difficult task for anyone with a little bit programming knowledge, though you'd need to look up some documentation on how to change states on the Raspberry Pi GPIO pins using python, as well as some research as to which pins are already in use by the Pi-Plate.
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      The post was edited 3 times, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • SNK-NEO-GEO wrote:

      Thanks for the write up.. I was heading the netdimm wrote for Naomi but after adding the netdimm setup cost and the games that I actually want to play I decided to hunt down the actual games:).
      Indeed, the cost of a Net-DIMM board makes the initial buy-in fairly expensive, especially after buying the console and power supply and I/O board. Typically I see them go for around $150 shipped... $100 shipped is a great price and $200 shipped would be over paying.

      If the games you want are cartridge based and inexpensive then it would make sense to go that route. If those games are GD-ROM based then a Net-DIMM or CF-reader based setup might be a wash cost wise and would arguably be more reliable (less moving parts)
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    • I have a CF setup right now but the problem is that my CF actually boots up like once every 4 power cycle and that is driving me nuts. A netdimm user was reporting similar behavior and I was like heck that. Those 512m units go for $200 on eBay, then the pie is like 35, the the actual unit thing is $100 at jasen and they sell out like candy.

      My understanding is that the cart boot up without issues all the time.. My question, on the CD-ROM version of games, do the games boot up all the time without issue? Or is it the same behavior due to the dimm to power cycle a few times before the CD-ROM game boots up? Pardon the nob questions.
      The Future Is Now
    • That's definitely not normal behavior. what happens/what error do you get when it fails to boot?

      The thing with GD-ROM games is you still need to use a DIMM board so if the problem you're having with your Net-DIMM is caused by yoursetup, that problem will follow you to GD-ROM, Also the laser in the GD-ROM units is prone to failure (hence why Sega eventually moved to CF cards). You can apparently steal a laser assembly from a Dreamcast, but those are prone to failure too.

      Carts are going to be a lot more stable simply because there's a lot less to go wrong. In terms of reliability I'd rate it like this:

      ---Most Reliable---

      Cartridge games

      ---a good sized gap---

      Net-Boot Games
      CF Card Games

      ---a good sized gap---

      GD-ROM Games

      ---Least Reliable---

      CF/Net-Boot are pretty much on par. There's less to potentially screw up with CF cards, but with a Net-Boot it's really easy to troubleshoot if something is wrong on the Pi-side of things and the hardware is so cheap it's practically disposable.

      If you notice in my guide I make a big deal about supporting the daughter board in the Net-DIMM when inserting the Zero-Key, that's because the only thing holding up that side of the board is the one screw along the front. I've seen people put stress fractures in that board inserting the zero-key without supporting it because you're just bending it from the screw. Best case you can accidentally losen the connectors on the other side of the board causing a really flakey connection between the two. It's also worth disassembling the Net-Dimm completely, pulling the memory DIMMs and the daughter board, checking the daughter board over for damage around the screw hole. cleaning all the connectors and re-assembling.
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      The post was edited 2 times, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • hmm... It could be an issue with your cable.
      that's the reason I rank Net-Booting a hair above CF... those 50-pin cables suck.
      I would try cleaning the connectors on the DIMM board side first, and then try booting while holding good pressure... see if that helps/hurts.
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    • Ok. I can answer some things here

      1--Naomi Zero Key is NOT the same as the Chihiro/Triforce Zero Key. (Though they use the same one) This is in regards to the Type 3 Triforce and Chihiros. It is not clear at this time if the Naomi key will work in a Type 1 Triforce or Chihiro.

      2--If you are having issues booting your Naomi from time to time then you most likely have a POWER issue. "But I have a Sun PSU?" Well, how old is that supply? There used to be this consensus that you needed a SUN supply but that is bullshit. Buy yourself a newer, beefier supply. An ATX of a good wattage. A 1000 watt may be overkill but will be more reliable. 600 watt should be ok for all Naomi systems but why not prepare for potential future pcbs?

      3--If you have inconsistent booting with a CF kit, and it wasn't hand build with a rats nest of wires, then you have two potential issues. 1--Not enough power (see above). 2--problem with the CF card itself. You can try rewriting the card or try a different brand of card. Naomi can be really picky about the cards it lets you use but once you find a good reliable card it should last forever.
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      1--Naomi Zero Key is NOT the same as the Chihiro/Triforce Zero Key. (Though they use the same one)
      looking around I've read reports that the NAOMI Zero-Key can work in a Type 1 Chihiro/Tri-Force but that the Type-3 Chihiro/Tri-Force use a different Zero-Key. Is there any truth to this?
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    • twistedsymphony wrote:

      looking around I've read reports that the NAOMI Zero-Key can work in a Type 1 Chihiro/Tri-Force but that the Type-3 Chihiro/Tri-Force use a different Zero-Key. Is there any truth to this?
      I've never tried but that makes sense since the Type 1s use the same DIMM. I'll edit my above post for clarity. I can test on my Type 1 Triforce at some point but I don't have a Type 1 Chihiro, though I would like one.
    • SNK-NEO-GEO wrote:

      I get a black screen.. Nothing happens, the system just seats on a black screen .. If I remove the CF unit from the dimm, the Naomi system boots up every time.

      Thank you for all the advice.. I will give everything that you mentioned a try:)
      FWIW; I had the exact same problem when using my CF card adapter with my Naomi setup. It was extremely frustrating and mystifying as to the inconsistency and what caused it to occur. There was a very in-depth review of this on these forums of which someone really tested the electrical aspects of why it worked this way; his consensus was it seemed to happen with the non-Net Dimm board more versus an actual Net Dimm. Not sure about that, but I would get a black screen on some games one day and the next day; they would seem to work. They were all using the same brand of card so not sure why some would work versus others. I was using a non-Net Dimm board at the time so not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. Once I got a Net Dimm board I went with net-booting and haven't looked back. I have had zero issues with the net-booting option like I did with the CF cards and the black screen with some games. The CF card concept is fine and I liked it overall, but I couldn't rely on it booting the games all the time. Like you stated one out of every four times it would actually load as it should. It was strange and very frustrating. Not saying it couldn't be a power issue, but I have had zero power issues since and use a SUN power supply as well. I guess I very much related to your story and wanted to let you know you are not alone on this one and I really didn't solve the problem either other than going to the net-booting option. I tried multiple cables, etc. and it didn't seem to matter in my setup.
    • Thank you very much for telling your story.. That is exactly what is happening on mine.. I have a separate PC power supply that I picked up from eBay so power is not the issue.. I already purchased a few games from Shmups forum so I just continue the physical copy railroad.. I have a wanted list of the games that I need to pick up:) her at arcade-projects and at Shmups..
      The Future Is Now
    • I like to put my zero keys in the casing from the stock security keys. That way they're easy to insert.

      I don't know how readily available the casings are, but one came with my OR2SP cab and one came in the NAOMI2 (originally from an ID3 setup IIRC), and I believe my Lindbergh's coming with another.

      I know this guide is for using Pi-Force Tools on an RPi, but if someone wanted to play around with netbooting prior to setting all of that up, it can be done from Windows with transfergame.exe or That's all I have set up at the moment.

      If anyone wants to link up multiple systems for netbooting (and I assume link play, too) a router can be used in lieu of a switch, just in case anyone already has one on hand rather than investing in more. I wire my laptop and Chihiro/NAOMI2 into the router for netbooting.

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      A Zero-Key is a special "universal" security key that works with any game.
      I could be wrong, but this is my understanding (please correct me if not true): The stock security keys have a code on them, each tied to a specific retail game. The game software boots and reads the code on the chip and makes sure it matches with the game or gives an error. A zero key is a chip where the code has been replaced with zeros/nullified. In order for the zero key to work with game software, the game has to be modified to expect zeros for the code. I believe all netbootable ROMs you'd find out there have this modification. The distinction I want to make is that I don't believe they're truly universal. For example, I don't think I could pop a zero key in and boot my OR2SP GD-ROM. I wouldn't want someone getting the impression they could buy a legitimate GD-ROM off of eBay lacking a key and be good to go if they bought a zero key.

      Chihiro specific info:
      Chihiro Type 3 needs jumper 9 on the media board changed to the 2-3 position to go from GD-ROM to Netboot. The media board is accessible by removing the top cover of the unit held on by 4 screws.

      Chihiro games come in 1GB and 512MB flavors. As far as I'm seeing you can't load a 512MB game into a 1GB console, so make sure to find ROMs for the appropriate version. For the few driving games, I've found both versions available (note that Crazy Taxi High Roller doesn't have 2 versions, but I believe the ROM floating around out there is hacked to be able to run on anything). You can also upgrade to 1GB or downgrade to 512MB by adding/removing RAM, but jumper 5 on the media board needs to be changed accordingly. 1-2 position for 1GB and 2-3 position for 512MB. A couple of games may only be available in 1GB (Gundam?), so that's likely the one to go with if you want max compatibility. For my driving setup, 512MB had been fine. I can play CTHR, OR2SP, WMMT, and WMMT2.

      Improper voltages can lead to all kinds of problems with the Chihiro. I've had my system in a state where OR2SP boots and plays fine, but WMMT freezes on boot. I've also had OR2SP crash out and the Chihiro resets to a media board error. Adjusting voltages to better match spec helped resolve issues for me.

      More info on Chihiro jumper settings and pics on this page:
    • I recently came across a couple of new Options for Net-Booting with a Pi:

      Both of these options allow you to use use a Pi for net-booting without the Pi-Plate LCD (so cost reduction and less work).

      one allows you to select/change games from your phone by connecting to the Pi over Wi-Fi

      the other allows you to setup an SD card with just 1 game so if you wanted to setup your NAOMI with a dedicated game you could do that (would be a much cheaper alternative than an CF setup)
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    • twistedsymphony wrote:

      I recently came across a couple of new Options for Net-Booting with a Pi:

      Both of these options allow you to use use a Pi for net-booting without the Pi-Plate LCD (so cost reduction and less work).

      one allows you to select/change games from your phone by connecting to the Pi over Wi-Fi

      the other allows you to setup an SD card with just 1 game so if you wanted to setup your NAOMI with a dedicated game you could do that (would be a much cheaper alternative than an CF setup)
      I'm trying the web version on an RPiv1 with the suggested WG111v3 and it's not Detecting the Wifi Adapter. anyone have any luck working with this?
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      Mormon 9:31