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I'm trying the web version on an RPiv1 with the suggested WG111v3 and it's not Detecting the Wifi Adapter. anyone have any luck working with this?
unfortunately I haven't tried any of those alternatives. I used to have a PiV1 running my 3D printer over WiFi and I do recall having to setup a config script with the SSID and other information about the Wifi network.
 
Anyone? I bought a Naomi one from Summitt a few years ago but he's not responding to PMs presently.

EDIT: Solved. Thanks Summitt Arcade!
 
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Can any Chihiro users post a photo of their network settings? It differs from Naomi (more settings).
 
Can any Chihiro users post a photo of their network settings? It differs from Naomi (more settings).
I don't have my Triforce anymore but AFAIR you just need to setup the IP address in the range 192.168.0.X on both with mask 255.255.255.0
 
Can any Chihiro users post a photo of their network settings? It differs from Naomi (more settings).
I don't own a Chihiro so I can't say for sure, but the Chihiro and Trifoce both use Ethernet for linking the units together and have a separate Ethernet port for the media board. Are you sure you're in the correct network settings menu because I'd suspect there are two of them.
 
I'd suspect there are two of them.
There are 2 separate menu items for network settings. CORE and MEDIA I believe. You have to modify MEDIA and leave CORE alone, as it's not used. Just input IP and subnet mask (I think this one defaults to 255.255.255.0) as Darksoft mentioned.
 
Just input IP and subnet mask (I think this one defaults to 255.255.255.0) as Darksoft mentioned.
in a crossover network (like we're using with Pi Force tools with a single cable on one device) you need to set 3 parameters:
IP: this should be Gateway Address of the other device... typically 192.168.1.XXX where XXX is a unique number
Gateway: This should be the IP of the other device... typically 192.168.1.YYY where YYY is a unique number
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0


By default Pi-Force tools assumes that 192.168.1.1 is the IP for the Pi (and the gateway of the media board) and that 192.168.1.2 is the IP of the Media board (and the gateway of the Pi). These values can of course be changed but I would recommend keeping them for ease of troubleshooting unless you have reason to use something different.
 
Just input IP and subnet mask (I think this one defaults to 255.255.255.0) as Darksoft mentioned.
in a crossover network (like we're using with Pi Force tools with a single cable on one device) you need to set 3 parameters:IP: this should be Gateway Address of the other device... typically 192.168.1.XXX where XXX is a unique number
Gateway: This should be the IP of the other device... typically 192.168.1.YYY where YYY is a unique number
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0


By default Pi-Force tools assumes that 192.168.1.1 is the IP for the Pi (and the gateway of the media board) and that 192.168.1.2 is the IP of the Media board (and the gateway of the Pi). These values can of course be changed but I would recommend keeping them for ease of troubleshooting unless you have reason to use something different.
I totally replied to my previous post in the wrong thread... :S

I think what you typed confirms it.


Here's what I had typed:
------------------------------------------------------------


I just looked at my Chihiro, Type 3.

In the settings menu, go to:
Network Settings (MEDIA)

Set NETWORK TYPE to: ETHER

Got to SET IP ADDRESS.

EDIT IP ADDRESS to whatever IP works for your setup.
I have mine plugged into a router and have it set to 192.168.2.141

Set SUBNET MASK to:
255.255.255.0

My GATEWAY is set to:
192.168.2.1 as I believe that's what I have the router set to.

PRIMARY DNS is all zeros.
SECONDARY DNS is all zeros.

For my setup I use a router (not a network switch) that's not plugged up to the internet, and plug my laptop into the router for netbooting. I'm not sure how directly wiring the crossover cable from RPi to Chihiro affects things in relation to these settings.
 
Thanks guys. I was completely screwed up from the very beginning because the Chihiro I purchased is missing the network board that sits on top of the DIMM. :huh: So I was plugging into the wrong LAN, not seeing menu options, etc. I didn't catch it because there is a blank plate installed where the network board's ports should be, which tells me some Chihiros were shipped from the factory this way. :huh: Anyway, I have a network board on the way so hopefully I'll be able to get running soon.
 
I didn't catch it because there is a blank plate installed where the network board's ports should be, which tells me some Chihiros were shipped from the factory this way. Anyway, I have a network board on the way so hopefully I'll be able to get running soon.
Yeah, the 2nd Type 3 Chihiro that I got off of eBay more recently didn't come with the network board, either. It was pretty disappointing, because I wouldn't have bought it for the listed price if I had realized it wasn't included.

The person I bought it from claimed it was from OR2 and that he had it working in link mode with the onboard ethernet cable, though I haven't ever tested if linking can work that way. I haven't even tested linking games yet, but I was under the impression they used the network board's port, not the onboard port.
 
I think I have a spare network board from Triforce, but AFAIR it's the same Triforce uses.

PM me if you can't find one.
 
I think I have a spare network board from Triforce, but AFAIR it's the same Triforce uses.

PM me if you can't find one.
I'm not sure if this was directed at me, but I found and purchased a network board soon after I bought the 2nd Chihiro. Thanks for the offer, though!
 
I think I have a spare network board from Triforce, but AFAIR it's the same Triforce uses.

PM me if you can't find one.
I'm not sure if this was directed at me, but I found and purchased a network board soon after I bought the 2nd Chihiro. Thanks for the offer, though!
yep. That was for you :)
 
I think I'm almost there. Game loaded (I think) but I'm getting an error to change horizontal frequency. I downloaded the OutRun 2 manual but the solution (dips) is written in a way that doesn't make sense. Can anyone provide their Chihiro dip settings? Thanks.
 
Nice tutorial you put together here. I am having trouble with what appears to be a SD corruption issue when using the Pi to netboot.

I have on of the TravistyOJ Raspberry Pi v1 kits with the Adafruit LCD that I bought from Jasen's customs a few years ago. It worked great for a while, but then it stopped booting and I had to format and rebuild the SD card. Once the SD is rebuilt, it seems to work without issue until after some time it just stops booting again. I have been through this cycle several times in the past year. After doing some research, my thought is that the SD card is being corrupted either by Linux writing to it and/or improper shut down by loss of power.

Is anyone else experiencing this problem while net booting with the Pi? I have read that some SD cards can themselves contribute to the corruption of data on the card, generally the cheap ones...Also I understand that class 10 may be overkill for the Pi and something like class 6 might be better suited.

The SD card is a 32GB Transcend SDHC Class 10 200x. I checked the Pi compatibility list for SD cards and it says that it is compatible, but I noticed the Transcend models on either side of it on the list said that they had writing issues. Specifically that they became "write only" capable after a year IIRC.

Can someone shed some light on this issue? If not, can some of the members who are not having this issue please recommend another card - perhaps one of the better brands? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
This is actually a common problem with the Pi.

I've heard speculation that it has to do with pulling power while it's in the process of writing to the card but I don't know if I fully buy that.

with that said I've never had my PiForce card corrupted (Pi1B with a Sony card), but I did try running a Pi1B as a media center for a while and had all kinds of corruption problems.

I also use a Pi for running my 3D printer, my old Pi1B setup I thing only corrupted once, and then I switched to a Pi2 and it corrupted within 3 days, I rebuilt the card and it hasn't happened again since, and that thing gets pretty regularly abused.

I have found that running too much out of my USB ports on the Pi2 can cause it to lock up so it's sensitive to voltage levels. I'd suspect that a higher quality SD card will be less prone to issues.

I don't know a REAL solution to this because I'm not entirely clear on what causes it to happen, I've yet to find something that will trigger it consistently.
 
Thanks for your reply TS. I appreciate your confirmation that this is a common issue for which there does not appear to be a clear understanding of the cause.

This time around I looked at the files on the SD before rebuilding it.All files are present and the same size when comparing the files on the card to the source files. I guess I was looking for files that were corrupted beyond recognition, but that does not appear to be the case.

There is an additional board available that performs an orderly shutdown. I though about testing to see if that solves it but it would not fit on the Pi along with the Adafruit LCD display. I will try a different card as you suggest and see if gets me anywhere...
 
This time around I looked at the files on the SD before rebuilding it.All files are present and the same size when comparing the files on the card to the source files. I guess I was looking for files that were corrupted beyond recognition, but that does not appear to be the case.
I've done the same and came to the same conclusion, I suspect that when you burn one of these linux images that there's a boot partition on the card and that's what get corrupted hence why it wont boot, and why it's not apparent what was damaged.
 
I've been having a few weird issues with netbooting with a PI and finally traced it down to the memory card. I was using a micro-SD in a converter, I re-imaged using a normal full-sized SD and the problems went away, used the micro-sd on my PI-3 (without an adapter and surprise, suprise - it works fine).

FYI - You can also use netboot to force upgrade a 2.x net-dimm to 4.02 by following the process below, mine was 2.13:-

For reference if anyone else needs to do this....

Download transfergame.exe and Naomi bios 4.01 and 4.02.

01) You need firmware 2.x on your net-dimm (or non-net dimm if you swap the top PCB over) or you can't get into the network menu.
02) You need > D bios in your Naomi-1.
03) put a null pic into the pic socket on the dimm.
04) Go into setup menu and configure the network (I set mine to 192.168.0.100 as my router uses that range).
05) Plug the network cable from the Naomi dimm into your router, switch it all on and check you can ping it from your PC.
06) in a command prompt (as administrator) run transfergame 401.bin 192.168.0.100 -f -nl
07) your Naomi should display the message screen for updating from 2.xx to 4.01 if not repeat step 06 a couple of times.
08) press the "test" button to upgrade from 2.xx to 4.01, once complete power-cycle the Naomi.
09) Go into setup menu and check the Dimm firmware version - it should now be 4.01.
10) in a command prompt (as administrator) run transfergame 402.bin 192.168.0.100 -f -nl
11) your Naomi should display the message screen for updating from 4.01 to 4.02 if not repeat step 10 a couple of times.
12) press the "test" button to upgrade from 4.01 to 4.02, once complete power-cycle the Naomi.
13) Go into setup menu and check the Dimm firmware version - it should now be 4.02
14) Go into setup menu and configure the network to 192.168.1.2 and you're set for PI netbooting.


Notes:-
You need to set the three jumpers inside the dimm for network & use a known working zero pic.
If you plug the network cable into your router its a normal one not a cross-over as you use with a PI.
I tried using the single file PI netboot image to do this but it wouldn't work so I'm pretty sure you have to use transfergame.exe.
I disconnected the battery so the dimm forgets you've programmed it with the bios when you power-cycle it.
You cannot use this procedure to upgrade to 3.17 (why would you?) as the upgrade process doesn't work and you cannot go directly to 4.02 - YOU MUST upgrade to 4.01 first.

If you have a non-net dimm with firmware 2.x and access to a net-dimm, take both apart and remove the screw that fastens the top pcb in place (it's near the pic socket) - remove the top PCB and swap them over - then follow the same process. Once you've finished swap them back and you have a non-net dimm that'll boot from compact flash cards.

This process will not work for Dimm firmware version 1.x - that has to be done by swapping the bios chip over.
 
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